So a lot of threads get started, but never finished. The project stalls, guys give up, or the fix is never documented. This post is the answer to that!

I had asked about low oil pressure in my high-mileage 351m. Changing the bottom bearings and oil pump took care of that. I now have 60+ psi cold and 20 psi at hot idle

I had asked about a gauge pod. I made an underdash pod, and I like it real well. It holds my digital tach, temp and oil pressure gauges

I had asked about my timing. I just re-read the thread, and it was at 27.5. Suggestions included a slipped harmonic balancer. I installed a new balancer-it still likes 26ish degrees, and still runs great

Ok, recap time:
I tried changing the bearings and main seal with the engine in place. Couldn't drop the crank enough to get the rear upper main seal out. Had to pull the engine

Changed the main bearings, rear main seal, oil pump, soft plugs, con-rod bearings, water pump and timing seal. Reinstalled the engine. Runs great

Reviews of stuff and lessons learned:

The GlowShift 2-1/16" digital tach is nice. Works good and has bright/dim lighting

Summit mechanical gauges are nice in the daytime. They come with a backlight, but are still hard to read at night

GlowShift gauge pod is easy to customize for under-dash mount

Summit temp gauge needs a really big hole in the firewall to pass the nut through

NPT and MIP/FIP/IP are the same thread. The close nipple and tee from the brass fittings section at Home Depot work fine for splitting the oil pressure

Summit headers are Hedmans and work fine. The gaskets are good and the bolts are 3/8 with a 3/8 head

Summit RV cam kit with lifters is pretty awesome. Woke the 351m right up!

Summit double-roller timing set is not expensive and works great-and is adjustable

The 2-9/16R socket you need for Dana70 hubs works great to drive in the seal in the timing cover

Harbor Freight 2 ton hoist is easy to assemble, the legs fold up for storage, and it works well. Same for the 1000lb engine stand. The extended legs fight the legs on the hoist

The Summit temp gauge needs an adapter to fit the block. It's like $12. Order the adapter when you order the gauge

NAPA is useless for bearings. Get them from summit. Get plastigage, too. And a bottle of assembly lube

There are three different sets of heads for the 351m. Get the heads for a 400-they don't have the smog stuff. Have the EGR holes plugged

The edelbrock performer 400 is a good manifold, and likes the Holley 4 bbl with vacuum secondaries, 600 cfm, electric choke and ford automatic transmission linkage. Yes, all those things are options. And yes, you need to buy the throttle bracket ****/stud and transmission linkage kits in addition to the carb

If you're not a carb expert, don't buy a used carb-no matter how much you think you're saving. Get a new one and be done with it. Don't adjust a new carb unless you know what you're doing. Really know

There's a vet on eBay that makes a really cool kick down lever out of stainless tube. They're not cheap, but they look good!

A local shop rebuilt me seat. A little expensive, but very nice, firm, supportive and comfy. Although the truck is a ranger XLT, I didn't want the vinyl inserts. No good for the hot desert

Get a dashmat to hide a bad pad or protect a good pad

DC or JBG premium rubber/sealsis worth the price difference

Got the windows tinted in Mexico. Nice job, reasonable price

Got the A/C charged in Mexico. Think the guy may have overcharged the system. It let the blue smoke out

Don't jack-up the engine via block under the harmonic balancer. The main pulley may be ok, but I ruined the harmonic balancer that way

Don't use chains bolted to the exhaust ports to lift the engine. The chains pull against, and can bend, the valve covers. I did use new grade 8 bolts and the holes with extra meat to lift the engine

A lift plate from summit is under $15. But spend a couple bucks on bolts for the manifold. I used the carb studs/nuts, but they didn't inspire confidence

Don't take the hinges off the inner fenders. Take the hood off the hinges. Or just remove the front clip

I haven't had any problems with the plastic tube that comes with the oil pressure gauges, but the copper tube kit inspires confidence

Plan ahead and buy $100 worth of stuff from summit to get the free freight

Save your fast-food soft drink cups. Use a different cup for the nuts and bolts from different parts of the engine, like the oil pan or timing cover. Fill with gasoline to easily degrease the nuts/bolts. Don't use the wife's Tupperware for this task

There a yellow connector behind the light switch for three ignition hot circuits. That connector is your friend

Make sure to have good grounds. I replaced the engine to firewall ground strap with a new battery cable. Gas gauge now reads accurately

I think that's all for now!

 

Good job and nice write up.

 

Thanks for the write up and update.
You're right, a lot of times we're left hanging, wondering what happened or how things turned out.

 

X2 on thanks for all the update, hood alignment looks great. And if you ever need another rim like you have on it now, I have 3 setting on the shelf. 15" Champ 500's right?

 

Thanks guys, for all the help, advice, comments and suggestions!

I found the instructions for aligning the hood in the tips section at the top of the page. Actually, when it was time to align the hood, another user asked the same question and was sent to the top of the page. So I got the answer without the associated embarrassment! I also pulled off the spring and catch-that made things easier

I would like to obtain a matching rim for my spare. My wheels aren't marked with brand nor model, so I'm not sure who/what they are. But I like them!