alternator/volmeter problems
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alternator/volmeter problems
I did most of a 12 volt conversion on my truck this weekend and I'm having a problem with the alternator or voltmeter. Not sure which. I replaced the generator with a one wire alternator. Well, I say it's a one wire but it has a plug on the back of it with one wire comming out of the plug and making a loop back in and another wire that just comes out. The alternator also has a "batt" and a grounding terminal on the back of it. I took the single wire that comes out of the plug and put it to the batt terminal of the alternator which is connected to the + side of my voltmeter. The - side of the voltmeter goes to my battery. I ran the truck and the voltmeter didn't show anything. I used a tester on the "batt" terminal and a ground and it showed 8 volts. I know it will crank out more juice when the trucks running down the road but is this normal? I've been looking through old threads and guys were getting 12 with the motor at idle.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,795
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From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Hum. Ok, did you replace the ammeter with the voltmeter? If so they are wired diff, the ammeter is in series, all the power goes through it, the voltmeter is in parallel and just measures the battery condition. The voltmeter is wired through the ignition switch and should show 12 v. (12.5) battery condition when turned on. The self-energizing alternators (one wire, need around 1200 rpm (?) to kick in, not sure if the power supply (in and out) should come from the voltmeter, maybe 10 gauge wire to the positive side of the battery, 14 v. when charging / running?
“Being wrong keeps me humble”
“Being wrong keeps me humble”
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
A voltmeter can be wired in anywhere there is a 12V source and a ground. It need not be wired directly to the alternator and/or battery.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 129
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Hum. Ok, did you replace the ammeter with the voltmeter? If so they are wired diff, the ammeter is in series, all the power goes through it, the voltmeter is in parallel and just measures the battery condition. The voltmeter is wired through the ignition switch and should show 12 v. (12.5) battery condition when turned on. The self-energizing alternators (one wire, need around 1200 rpm (?) to kick in, not sure if the power supply (in and out) should come from the voltmeter, maybe 10 gauge wire to the positive side of the battery, 14 v. when charging / running?
“Being wrong keeps me humble”
“Being wrong keeps me humble”
Last edited by Old F1; Aug 18, 2008 at 02:57 PM. Reason: opps, sorry for double post, net real slow here today!
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Lead Driver
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Hum. Ok, did you replace the ammeter with the voltmeter? If so they are wired diff, the ammeter is in series, all the power goes through it, the voltmeter is in parallel and just measures the battery condition. The voltmeter is wired through the ignition switch and should show 12 v. (12.5) battery condition when turned on. The self-energizing alternators (one wire, need around 1200 rpm (?) to kick in, not sure if the power supply (in and out) should come from the voltmeter, maybe 10 gauge wire to the positive side of the battery, 14 v. when charging / running?
“Being wrong keeps me humble”
“Being wrong keeps me humble”
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
I'd go back to him and tell him you need an instructions diagram.
If he doesn't have one, tell us the manufacturer of the alternator, and maybe someone here has put one in before. I have a one wire on my truck. But it was obviously converted from a standard alternator because it still has all the original posts - only one of which is used at this point. Mine is from "Tuff Stuff" and I still have the wiring instructions from it.
So, let us know.
J!
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That's pretty shakey!
I'd go back to him and tell him you need an instructions diagram.
If he doesn't have one, tell us the manufacturer of the alternator, and maybe someone here has put one in before. I have a one wire on my truck. But it was obviously converted from a standard alternator because it still has all the original posts - only one of which is used at this point. Mine is from "Tuff Stuff" and I still have the wiring instructions from it.
So, let us know.
J!
I'd go back to him and tell him you need an instructions diagram.
If he doesn't have one, tell us the manufacturer of the alternator, and maybe someone here has put one in before. I have a one wire on my truck. But it was obviously converted from a standard alternator because it still has all the original posts - only one of which is used at this point. Mine is from "Tuff Stuff" and I still have the wiring instructions from it.
So, let us know.
J!
I'm wondering if I may have destroyed my voltage gauge wiring it up wrong the first time.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Well, that sounds better, grounding stuff works.
Can you run it up to 1500 rpm and get 14 volts out of it?
I doubt it hurt your gauge - question again is do you have a VOLTS gauge or an AMPS gauge? Are there numbers on it or does it just have a "+" on the right and a "-" on the left.
I'm sure there are experienced mechanics in lots of different stores - not to discount that. But there is an old expression that I can't help wonder was coined for auto and truck electrical work: "When in doubt, read the instructions."
J!
Can you run it up to 1500 rpm and get 14 volts out of it?
I doubt it hurt your gauge - question again is do you have a VOLTS gauge or an AMPS gauge? Are there numbers on it or does it just have a "+" on the right and a "-" on the left.
I'm sure there are experienced mechanics in lots of different stores - not to discount that. But there is an old expression that I can't help wonder was coined for auto and truck electrical work: "When in doubt, read the instructions."
J!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
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Well, that sounds better, grounding stuff works.
Can you run it up to 1500 rpm and get 14 volts out of it?
I doubt it hurt your gauge - question again is do you have a VOLTS gauge or an AMPS gauge? Are there numbers on it or does it just have a "+" on the right and a "-" on the left.
I'm sure there are experienced mechanics in lots of different stores - not to discount that. But there is an old expression that I can't help wonder was coined for auto and truck electrical work: "When in doubt, read the instructions."
J!
Can you run it up to 1500 rpm and get 14 volts out of it?
I doubt it hurt your gauge - question again is do you have a VOLTS gauge or an AMPS gauge? Are there numbers on it or does it just have a "+" on the right and a "-" on the left.
I'm sure there are experienced mechanics in lots of different stores - not to discount that. But there is an old expression that I can't help wonder was coined for auto and truck electrical work: "When in doubt, read the instructions."
J!
Now.......tell me more about this "instructions" thing. They really do exist?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
(giggle)
J!
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Hum. Ok, did you replace the ammeter with the voltmeter? If so they are wired diff, the ammeter is in series, all the power goes through it, the voltmeter is in parallel and just measures the battery condition. The voltmeter is wired through the ignition switch and should show 12 v. (12.5) battery condition when turned on. The self-energizing alternators (one wire, need around 1200 rpm (?) to kick in, not sure if the power supply (in and out) should come from the voltmeter, maybe 10 gauge wire to the positive side of the battery, 14 v. when charging / running?
“Being wrong keeps me humble”
“Being wrong keeps me humble”
J!