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brake controller types???

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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 02:09 PM
  #16  
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grafekie
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From: Simpsonville, KY
There is a blue wire in the rear harness near the rear wheels that isn't continued out to the trailer hitch. The truck is wired for it up to that rear harness. Don't waste your money on the P3, stick to the Prodigy
 
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 02:34 PM
  #17  
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Don't waste your money on the P3, stick to the Prodigy
I'll offer a different opinion...and this is from someone that has logged 17,000 miles in three summers with my Prodigy...so keep that in mind before firing back...

My rationale about the P3 being worth the small $$$ over the Prodigy is for ONE feature that the P3 has that I WISH the Prodigy did...

Sourced CURRENT readout.

Here's why.

When I hook up my camper I have my wife check the lights as I go thru the brakes, turn signals and tail...

Once we hit the road in the campground or neighborhood...I go 5mph and MANUALLY apply the brake controller and do a drag test to ensure that my TT brakes are working. When I do this the Prodigy reads out VOLTAGE on the display. Well VOLTAGE is not a good indication of MAGNET health.

As brake magnets wear you will draw a different amount of current and they are less and less effective.

Doing that test with the P3...I would know the 'nominal' CURRENT sourced for my drag test. Each brake magnet draws up to 3.25 AMPS. CURRENT is cummulative...meaning 4 brakes drawing say 2.5 AMPS in my drag test would result in 10 AMPS on the P3 display. As magnets wear...or better yet say one is wearing much quicker than the others...over time I will see my 'nominal' CURRENT during the drag test go from 10 AMPS to 8 or 7...or maybe they draw more current?...I'm not sure actually since I have never trended CURRENT on brakes since my Prodigy doesn't give me that information...but once you hit 3.25AMPS you can't draw any more...but I would KNOW I need to adjust my brakes since sourced current has CHANGED 20 or 30% over my 'nominal'...at least I would INVESTIGATE to understand the change in 'nominal'...

With the Prodigy...VOLTAGE will be the SAME. Ohms law tells us that. But CURRENT tells a much more informed story.

So for me...yeah...the P3 is slightly more (maybe $30 these days)...and $30 is not insignificant for many...myself included...but I feel you get much more information for that $30 than you could ever imagine. It may just save your bacon one day when you have to make a panic stop and you should have adjusted your trailer brakes the previous week during your drag test...

Just my rationale...that's all...

I still have my Prodigy and don't plan on dumping her...but if I were in the market today or had the P3 been available three years ago when I purchased my Prodigy...I would have easily popped for the P3 for that ONE feature of sourced CURRENT readout.

Joe.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 04:29 PM
  #18  
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12engine
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From: Waterford, CT
Originally Posted by grafekie
There is a blue wire in the rear harness near the rear wheels that isn't continued out to the trailer hitch. The truck is wired for it up to that rear harness. Don't waste your money on the P3, stick to the Prodigy
nice. nothing like crawling under the truck looking for 1 little wire lol.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 04:38 PM
  #19  
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Well, the alternative is rewiring the whole thing yourself!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 07:26 AM
  #20  
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grafekie
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From: Simpsonville, KY
I've only driven 15k miles in two years :P That is an interesting feature... but for the loss of ease-of-use it may not be worth it. Its a lot harder to adjust a P3 on the fly because of the menus. I haven't found a person (other than you) who's driven with it extensively who has found it easy to use!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 11:47 AM
  #21  
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From: Florida
Nathan,

I'll give you that the P3 menus make for a more involved interface.

But to be honest...the ONLY thing I have EVER adjusted on my Prodigy is cycling thru the Boost. Different roads/grades require different boost levels...

I don't fiddle with anything else on my Prodigy...once I've determined the voltage level I needed for my trailer...I haven't adjusted that once...

One thing that is also nice about the P3 display...is that simply looking at the screen tells you if you are in boost1, boost2, boost3 or boostoff...with the Prodigy...you only get that second 'DOT' that tells you that you have SOME boost set...you must toggle thru them to figure out which you have currently set...

Each has pluses and minuses for sure...but for me...I'd really like to have knowledge of sourced CURRENT that my Prodigy simply does not provide...that's all...and I really do think it is worth the small extra $ and possibly a somewhat more involved interface...especially since I don't really need that interface all that often...

So I'm not sure what folks are adjusting on the fly...other than boost...and the Prodigy one button toggle interface can't get any easier...that is for sure...

Joe.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:49 PM
  #22  
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maevans
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Originally Posted by X_Hemi_Guy
Nathan,

I'll give you that the P3 menus make for a more involved interface.

But to be honest...the ONLY thing I have EVER adjusted on my Prodigy is cycling thru the Boost. Different roads/grades require different boost levels...

I don't fiddle with anything else on my Prodigy...once I've determined the voltage level I needed for my trailer...I haven't adjusted that once...

One thing that is also nice about the P3 display...is that simply looking at the screen tells you if you are in boost1, boost2, boost3 or boostoff...with the Prodigy...you only get that second 'DOT' that tells you that you have SOME boost set...you must toggle thru them to figure out which you have currently set...

Each has pluses and minuses for sure...but for me...I'd really like to have knowledge of sourced CURRENT that my Prodigy simply does not provide...that's all...and I really do think it is worth the small extra $ and possibly a somewhat more involved interface...especially since I don't really need that interface all that often...

So I'm not sure what folks are adjusting on the fly...other than boost...and the Prodigy one button toggle interface can't get any easier...that is for sure...

Joe.
Another vote for the P3.

SET IT, AND FORGET IT.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 05:18 PM
  #23  
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12engine
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Originally Posted by BPofMD
Well, the alternative is rewiring the whole thing yourself!
yeah, not happening lol.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 12:24 AM
  #24  
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MohaveMike
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Finally got my new prodigy controller installed last week. Spent about 15 mins. installing it, and about 20 mins. setting it up for my trailer. Worked out great! Thanks for everyone's input and knowledge, and rep points to Steina for helping me find the right connector.
Here is a picture of the install and the trailer.

 
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