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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 04:20 PM
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Question lift block

i need to go up about 1 inch in the rear i dont tow alot with my f250 can i jus add a 1 inch block under my 1 7/8 block? it sits level an i dont want the rear of the truck to be higher in the back so i cant add 350 blocks instead of 250 the 350 blocks would be to big
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 04:24 PM
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Stacking blocks is a big no-no, if you only need 1" you might try and add-a-leaf.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 04:28 PM
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why is stacking blocks a big no no? i heard its only really bad if u tow alot.. i didnt think it was if u didnt tow as much an u were only going up a lil bit?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 04:39 PM
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I have a local spring shop that will make you STEEL blocks any size you want. I put a procomp lift on my truck and they sent a stacker block, aluminum at that. Phooey. I measured and had the right block built and I feel much more confident in my rear than I would have with stacked.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 04:42 PM
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You sure you measured that 250 block right? I thought the 250 block was two+ inches. If thats the case use the 350 block.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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the stock f250 blocks are 1 7/8 an the 350 blocks are 3 3/4
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 05:09 PM
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I added a 1" plate spacer to the rear of my 08 F250 without a problem.....even the stock u-bolts worked.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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I could have sworn that the 250 blocks were 2" and the 350 blocks were 4". Unless everybody has been rounding up. I guess that I need to break out the tape measure.

I plan on putting 350 blocks in my 250 this week to get the rear a little bit higher than the front after adding a 2.5" leveling kit to the front last weekend.

I'll be sure to take pics with the tape measure when I do.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 07:11 PM
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Stacked blocks can tend to try and spit out under hard acceleration. With only 1" you might be fine, I wouldn't want to do it on my truck.
unrulee what level kit did you use? And yes stock F250 blox are 1-7/8", F350 are 3-3/4"
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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Here's what I went with eBay Motors: 2005-2008 FORD F-250/F-350 2-1/2" Lift Leveling kit (item 130247026831 end time Aug-21-08 14:08:38 PDT)

I really wanted the Icon 2.5" kit but couldn't justify the $700+ price tag. But keep in mind that the Icon kit does comes with 4 shocks.

I put Bilstien 5100's all around for about $280. So 280 plus the $75 for the leveling "spacers" (not much of a kit in my mind) has me sitting pretty for some other mods.

I weighed the options of various leveling kits form many companies and decieded on these. The guys in the 04-08 f150 forum swear by the leveling kit by the same company. I wanted steel, no rubber, no plastic, no corroding aluminum (doesn't get along well with steel when in harsh elements like we have here in ND).

They're very simple in construction, and the install was a piece of cake. Not in the "about an hour" like the instructions said. But I had all 4 shocks and the kit in in a little under 3 hours.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 10:23 PM
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I also think that there are different variations on the blocks depending on wheelbase.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 10:29 PM
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Here's a fairly long thread on it. Most of the info is in the first couple of pages. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ar-blocks.html

This is where I got all of my info on the swap to the F350 blocks.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 03:22 AM
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i think i might have to try this on my f250
and see how it looks
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 04:08 PM
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you could also consider the off road design zero rate for 1" of lift, some people just consider this just a 1' block with a center pin, but this would probably be a better option than stacking blocks without a centerpin, but your cheapest route for block and install would be 1 new block at whatever height you were shooting for
Offset 1" Zero Rate Add a Leaves™

 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 05:15 PM
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I'll second the zero rates, I run them myself on my 79 and they work great. Keep in mind though that depending on your truck (crew cab? long box? etc) the rear pinion angle may be changed with the use of these, they're flat, where as the F350 blocks are tapered for the correct the angle. Wrong angle = vibration.
 
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