My 2003 150 has 61000 miles and im thinking of switching to synthetic oil can anyone help me with some advice

 

go to walmart or local part store and buy some pennzoil platnium or mobil 1 (numerous choices though) then pour it into your truck while using a Wix, Motorcraft, or you choice of filter.

nothing special needs to be done.

as for oil change interval that is when it get tricky cause there are so many options that it depends on how long you really want to run.

 

i use mobil 1 and a motorcraft filter.

 

The first thing you need to know about synthetics is that not all products labeled as synthetic are really synthetics.

The original criteria for synthetic was to take the desired group molecules, and using a heated pressurized catalyst, form them into the desired oil molecules. This method uses a group of compounds known as esters (yes the same ester as polyester plastics). This method produces very consistent, thermally stable molecules that provide excellent lubrication, can withstand a lot of heat, and can hold foreign substances in suspension, reducing the need to adding extra detergents, and can withstand chemical contamination without breaking down. Oils in this group are known as GroupIV base stock.

More recently, the criteria was redefined as a way for oil companies to produce a cheaper substitute. This method takes existing petroleum products and cracks the molecules in a heated catalyst to turn the large bulky oil molecules into smaller molecules. However, this process produces a lot of different molecules of differing sizes and chemical characteristics. The result is a oil that has better lubrication qualities than conventional oil, but nowhere near the level of group IV lubricants. The molecules formed require detergent levels comparable to those found in conventional oils, since the hydrocracked non-ester based molecules do not suspend foreign particles in suspension very well. They are easily fractured by high temperatures, and are prone to chemical contamination. This type of oil is only a minor improvement over conventional oil. This type of process produces GroupIII oils.

For a baseline comparison, Group IV oils can be used with oil change intervals of between 15,000 miles to 25,000 miles, since they can hold a lot of chemical and particulates in suspension and can withstand high temperatures without breaking down. A Group III hydrocracked oil is good for between 5,000 - 12,000 miles. Because the definition between the two types of oils is not made clear by the oil industry, there is a lot of confusion, and synthetic oils that are not really synthetic are placed up to scientific scrutiny and produce inconclusive results. But when group IV oils are tested, the results always show an improvement in all test ares.

There are three brand of oil I recommend if you want to really try a synthetic oil;
Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple. Mobil1 used to make a group IV oil, but their current synthetic is a group III. I have found the newer Mobil1 does not last as long as it used to before it starts breaking down and turning dark (a sign that the oil is oxidizing and becoming chemically contaminated).

If you use a synthetic oil, use a good oil filter that is designed to handle extended service intervals. OEM filters also work very well for extended intervals. Wix, Purolator, and Mobil1 are all filters I can recommend. Stay away from Fram and Bosch with extended intervals, these filters are not meant to handle extended service, in fact they can barely last 5,000 miles. Fram also has a tendency to shed fibers, which can restrict oil passages and cause lubrication failures.

 

my first question would be why? what are you trying to gain? how many miles do you drive a year? stop and start or highway? synthetics cost money, make sure your getting your moneys worth.

 

Well do the math. Lets say you get your regualr oil at $2.00 per quart for regular oil, that the synthetic equals $6.00 per quart and your vehicle requires 5 quarts. Lets spread this over 3 years and do an average of 12,000 miles per year (the national average). Lets say that there are no fuel economy benefits, just service interval changes. Lets also say the type of driving you do supports a 5,000 mile service interval with regular oil. Lets also not compare the false synthetics just yet. Lets also say you are using a $4.00 oil filter.

In three years, or 36,000 miles, you will have changes the oil 7 times in that period. this amounts to $70 worth of oil and $28 worth of oil filters for a total of $98 not counting the cost of shop supplies or labor.

In the sam time period, you will have replaced the synthetic only 2 times requiring only $60 worth of oil and two oil filters for a grand total of $68 not including shop supplies or labor. Thats a $30 savings on oil change costs alone.

I have tested this myself, I only use synthetics in my vehicles and they are holding up well. If you decide to count labor in the equation, current shop rates at an assumed $15 per oil change (that is s a cheap job) that you will have spent $98 on synthetic oil and the change, while you will have spend an additional $75 on regular oil for a total of $173.

This is not counting the reduced wear and tear from the better oil, or the fact that you might gain a little extra fuel economy, and have fewer breakdowns long term. The cost differences between the two classes of oil can be thousands of dollars over the life of the vehicle.

Since false synthetics are not much better that regular oil, but cost significantly more than regular oil, the math says the false synthetics will not likely save you any money.

 

5-20 Motorcraft oil is a synthetic blend along with a motorcraft oil fillter======= A Very Happy Triton Engine

There is no need to use a synthetic oil. Just change your oil in regular intervals and the truck should last a long time.

Hope this helps.

 

Are you suggesting to do 18k oil changes!!

Really I know what you are trying to get across but that would not be a good suggestion unless you do an oil analysis after 10k and maybe 15k just to see how the add packs and the oils TBN is holding up.

 

Im saying that all group IV synthetic oils are good for at least 15,000 miles under harsh conditions. If the vehicle is all highway, doesn't tow, or is otherwise doing light duty tasks, then it can be extended as high as 25,000 miles. That is the difference between regular oil and synthetics.

If you are shocked by this, it is because you are thinking about it all wrong. There are two major things that cause the oil to break down. The first is blowby, which produces acids which can damage the engine through chemical wear. The oil contains additives to neutralize this. It contains buffers, which absorb the acid and render it harmless. Synthetic oils contain as much as 30 times more buffing capacity than regular oil. The second main cause of oil failure is the oil breaking down to heat and shear stress. When the oil molecules begin to crack, they no longer lubricate, and in fact often become acidic, becoming a contaminant. These cracked molecules will oxidize and turn dark, indicating the oil is failing. Once again, the synthetics have a major advantage. They must be heated to far higher temperatures before they even start to degrade, often up to 75% higher temperatures. Less oil breakdown means that the oil can continue to do what it was designed to do much longer.

I have followed 15,000 - 20,000 change intervals, and have used regular oil under the same conditions. The regular oil after 3,000 miles of towing and hauling heavy loads, was thick and sludgy, completely black. You could tell by looking that it was bad. In contrast, the synthetic I use (RP), even after 20,000 miles, it comes out as a light brown, you can clearly see through the stream of oil draining out, and it drains quite quickly because it is just as thin as it was when it went in. Also, have you even observed that the metal parts inside the valve cover often have a brownish tint to them? Well, it became much lighter colored after switching to RP.

I do not need to do the oil analysis, others on this forum have already independently verified the performance of these oils. I did do an analysis once with about 13,000 on the oil, came through with flying colors. Most of the numbers were really low, indicating excellent protection.

My advise if you do a switch, is to check the oils physical appearance after 10,000 miles. If based upon color and consistency you are not comfortable with it, change it.

 

Sorry, the color of the oil doesn't indicate if it is failing, I have seen my engine turn oil dark at roughly 3-4k wether it is dino or synthetic and I do not haul heavy loads at all. Also, a synthetic does provide extreme heat protection and extended oil drains, but I would'nt go as far to say it lubricates better.......just my opinion though.

later

 

dont slant the numbers to prove synthetics are "economical". i change dyno oil at 5-6000 intervals. i live in the country and believe the dust and dirt from gravel roads or off road contaminate things more than "the break dwon of the oil". i change every 4 months just to get the crud out and get clean oil in the motor. if you drive 15,000 miles a year and leave the oil in for 25,000 miles i would hate to see the buildup of crud inside due to dust and dirt, fuel dilution, etc. its not ecomnomical....... what i ment in my first post was for day to day driving it dont add up. for short trips, country driving, short oil changes, it dont add up. now if you are driving 3000 miles a month, i might have a different idea and maybe 15k on the highway would be o.k.

 

Did I slant the numbers? Pray tell, if you have an air filter, how does dirt and crud get into the oil? And what is your oil filter for? And how many miles have you ever put on one vehicle? If you do a lot of short trips, the best thing you can do is to take it on an hour long drive on the freeway, or out in the country for at least an hour at least once per month.

I'm sorry, but the numbers I gave are not slanted, the numbers I used are giving the conventional oil the benefit of the doubt. I know very well in the conditions I drive in, which is a blend of everything, with long trips every 3 weeks, that conventional oil looks like tar after a meer 3,000 miles. Under the same conditions, synthetic oil is lasting more than 6 times longer. Since it doesn't cost six times as much, the math really adds up. If you do lots of short trips, the buildup of acids, water, and blowby are more pronounced, so the benefits of synthetics are actually apparent under a lot of driving conditions.

Pray tell, have you ever actually put a group IV synthetic to the test? At one time, I had the same mindset as you do, but when I tried the oil, and tested the claims, I was hooked, it is not a minor improvement, it was immediately apparent.

 

Synthetic is only a viable option if you either want to go 12k miles, live in very cold temps, or have a high horsepower or boosted engine.

Synthetic does not show better wear and tear outside of these factors.

I wonder where bear gets his numbers and 'facts' from. BTW, last time I checked, Bosch was owned by Purolator for oil filters.

Go to bobistheoilguy if you want some real numbers and facts from real tests.

 

I run only mobil 1 synthetics as well. I go 7500 miles between changes which cuts the oil change intervals I used to do in half. Why did I change conventional oil every 3k miles? Cause my dad did and his cars ran 200-300k miles in the 60s, 70s and 80s. It worked for him. Do I believe 3k mile changes are overkill? probably... I recently read that the million mile E150 van guy runs conventional oil well beyond 10k miles!!

The big problem with running syns for extended periods of time is that the filters dont last as long. If I have to get under the motor to change the filter, might as well change the oil while Im at it....

M1 may not be a group IV basestock, but its cheap at $4 quart at wally world. RP is so darn expensive! Im starting to run the 0w30 m1 in my 4.6 now for better cold start protection. I installed an oil pressure guage on my motor and even with 160k miles, I still generate 90 psi running 5w30 in my neighborhood right at start up. Thats alot of pressure! Id rather have lower viscosity and better flow.

 

This has, of course, been debated ad nauseum, but I would like to add just a little. It has been decided that grp III oils can be called synthetics under the "duck rule". That is, if it looks like, and walks like, and quacks like a duck; then it IS a duck, regardless of how it was made. Organic chemistry puts elements together like tinker toys, and like man-made diamonds, one has to decide if the result is really the same.
For my money, synthetics can only be justified in arctic-type conditions (which is actually the original purpose). The grp III synthetics are better than the blends and just as good as the grp IV's in this service in my experience.
Going to longer intervals might possibly begin to justify the grp IV's, but that's not an option as long as your vehicle is in warranty. Even after that, it seems like a somewhat risky experiment.