Old Trucks Make Interesting Noises
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New User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Crockett, TX
Old Trucks Make Interesting Noises
Just a quick question.
I am the proud owner of my favorite kind of truck--one that cost $550 cash, is complete without any real damage and that actually runs. Enter my new Ford F100. A red sport custom from 1970 with a 360 and a c6. Its got all the modern features including a/c. A real find considering the $750 a month payment i was looking at to buy a new f150.
someone loved this truck once. it looks to have been well cared for. No real body damage except for a slightly torn up front fender and a missing piece of wheel well trim. even the tailgate is still functional, although one of the pivots looks to be broken. registration was current to last month. The odd thing is that somewhere along the way someone added a shifter from a mustang and disconnected the linkage to the column shifter.
I have a small question. The valve train is remarkably noisy. So noisy that i wonder whether it is properly oiling. One of the valve covers is loose and is leaking nicely--but the valve train is sure noisy. sounds like a model train clicking and clacking. Short of tearing the thing apart, any thoughts on it? I'm looking for another f100 360 owner who will let me listen to their engine to try and get a feel for it.
They replaced the timing chain and apparently had some trouble with it idling properly afterwards. I have not had a chance to check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge yet. or check dwell or timing.
I reinstalled some missing vac hoses and the tranny started shifting again. No smoke and lots of power. The kickdown is disconnected so the tranny acts a little weird. Just a noisy top end is the only real concern at this point.
I was also thinking that I should change the ignition from points to an electronic type. Maybe even convert the carb to throttle body injection.
Most everything is just a few parts to replace. I guess even the engine isnt much of a problem--if its not oiling properly it will just get rebuilt or replaced. I just dont want to drive it anywhere until i can be reasonably sure it wont lock up.
Anyway, if anyone has any comments, please make em. This is my first old ford with the original engine. (ive rebuilt a few 70's couriers and I have a tarus trike im trying to finish in my barn/garage).
also does anyone have a list of what tranny bolts to what engine in the ford world? Or if there are any good descriptions of taking more modern powertrains and inserting them into the 1970 f100?
and if anyone is interested, there are a ton of old ford and chevy trucks for sale locally. East TX seems to be the old farm truck graveyard.
I am the proud owner of my favorite kind of truck--one that cost $550 cash, is complete without any real damage and that actually runs. Enter my new Ford F100. A red sport custom from 1970 with a 360 and a c6. Its got all the modern features including a/c. A real find considering the $750 a month payment i was looking at to buy a new f150.
someone loved this truck once. it looks to have been well cared for. No real body damage except for a slightly torn up front fender and a missing piece of wheel well trim. even the tailgate is still functional, although one of the pivots looks to be broken. registration was current to last month. The odd thing is that somewhere along the way someone added a shifter from a mustang and disconnected the linkage to the column shifter.
I have a small question. The valve train is remarkably noisy. So noisy that i wonder whether it is properly oiling. One of the valve covers is loose and is leaking nicely--but the valve train is sure noisy. sounds like a model train clicking and clacking. Short of tearing the thing apart, any thoughts on it? I'm looking for another f100 360 owner who will let me listen to their engine to try and get a feel for it.
They replaced the timing chain and apparently had some trouble with it idling properly afterwards. I have not had a chance to check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge yet. or check dwell or timing.
I reinstalled some missing vac hoses and the tranny started shifting again. No smoke and lots of power. The kickdown is disconnected so the tranny acts a little weird. Just a noisy top end is the only real concern at this point.
I was also thinking that I should change the ignition from points to an electronic type. Maybe even convert the carb to throttle body injection.
Most everything is just a few parts to replace. I guess even the engine isnt much of a problem--if its not oiling properly it will just get rebuilt or replaced. I just dont want to drive it anywhere until i can be reasonably sure it wont lock up.
Anyway, if anyone has any comments, please make em. This is my first old ford with the original engine. (ive rebuilt a few 70's couriers and I have a tarus trike im trying to finish in my barn/garage).
also does anyone have a list of what tranny bolts to what engine in the ford world? Or if there are any good descriptions of taking more modern powertrains and inserting them into the 1970 f100?
and if anyone is interested, there are a ton of old ford and chevy trucks for sale locally. East TX seems to be the old farm truck graveyard.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 920
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, Colorado
Before I replaced the 390 in my 67 F-250, it would occasionally run low on oil....I would know when this happens as the valve train would suddenly sound like an industrial sewing machine... What causes this clacking is the valve lifters are hydraulic and require oil and oil pressure to "charge up."
If you still have the sound after changing out the oil, I would suspect the lifters are just too badly damaged to charge up, or something is preventing the oil from getting enough flow/pressure up there.
If you still have the sound after changing out the oil, I would suspect the lifters are just too badly damaged to charge up, or something is preventing the oil from getting enough flow/pressure up there.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Welcome to FTE.
Check oil level, maybe change it and use 10w40(at least). Likely the motor is worn out and a thicker oil will tend to quiet things down a bit. Even use 20w50.
How's the exhaust? It could be the fact the manifolds are leaking and this will give you a "click'n" sound at idle. Run your hand around each port and see if you feel air blowing?(watch as it might be HOT), do it just after start up as it will give you a minute to get close before it gets too hot to touch.
Converting the ignition is not uncommon, even if you just use a Pertronix conversion inside your stock dizzy. Cheap($75) and easy to do.
Changing the timing chain shouldn't have screwed up the idle unless it was so outta whack before the change and now it's on time and needs re-adjusted.
Check oil level, maybe change it and use 10w40(at least). Likely the motor is worn out and a thicker oil will tend to quiet things down a bit. Even use 20w50.
How's the exhaust? It could be the fact the manifolds are leaking and this will give you a "click'n" sound at idle. Run your hand around each port and see if you feel air blowing?(watch as it might be HOT), do it just after start up as it will give you a minute to get close before it gets too hot to touch.
Converting the ignition is not uncommon, even if you just use a Pertronix conversion inside your stock dizzy. Cheap($75) and easy to do.
Changing the timing chain shouldn't have screwed up the idle unless it was so outta whack before the change and now it's on time and needs re-adjusted.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 920
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, Colorado
.... How's the exhaust? It could be the fact the manifolds are leaking and this will give you a "click'n" sound at idle. Run your hand around each port and see if you feel air blowing?(watch as it might be HOT), do it just after start up as it will give you a minute to get close before it gets too hot to touch.....
Another good method for this is to use a length of plastic tubing, hold one end near your ear and use the other to scout for leaks....the smaller the tube, the better it will be at pinpointing the spot.
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 218
Likes: 1
From: Everett, WA
Welcome to FTE.
Check oil level, maybe change it and use 10w40(at least). Likely the motor is worn out and a thicker oil will tend to quiet things down a bit. Even use 20w50.
How's the exhaust? It could be the fact the manifolds are leaking and this will give you a "click'n" sound at idle. Run your hand around each port and see if you feel air blowing?(watch as it might be HOT), do it just after start up as it will give you a minute to get close before it gets too hot to touch.
Converting the ignition is not uncommon, even if you just use a Pertronix conversion inside your stock dizzy. Cheap($75) and easy to do.
Changing the timing chain shouldn't have screwed up the idle unless it was so outta whack before the change and now it's on time and needs re-adjusted.
Check oil level, maybe change it and use 10w40(at least). Likely the motor is worn out and a thicker oil will tend to quiet things down a bit. Even use 20w50.
How's the exhaust? It could be the fact the manifolds are leaking and this will give you a "click'n" sound at idle. Run your hand around each port and see if you feel air blowing?(watch as it might be HOT), do it just after start up as it will give you a minute to get close before it gets too hot to touch.
Converting the ignition is not uncommon, even if you just use a Pertronix conversion inside your stock dizzy. Cheap($75) and easy to do.
Changing the timing chain shouldn't have screwed up the idle unless it was so outta whack before the change and now it's on time and needs re-adjusted.
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