True dual stacks?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 242
Likes: 1
From: Norheimsund, Norway
True dual stacks?
Which is to prefer, a true dual or a splitter under the bed. ( I will not split it in the bed)? And if I go for a true dual I think a 3" all the way would be enough. It shouldn`t be that difficult to route a true dual..?..
I could need some advice /opinions from you guys who have done this!
I could need some advice /opinions from you guys who have done this!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
The problem with running true duals is the front fuel tank.
The tank is right in the way, and not enough room to go over or between the transmission and the tank.
You will probably also find that there is not enough room to split the exhaust under the bed and get to the drivers side of the bed.
With my dump bed, I have the pipe over the frame and up in front of the bed headache rack.
The tank is right in the way, and not enough room to go over or between the transmission and the tank.
You will probably also find that there is not enough room to split the exhaust under the bed and get to the drivers side of the bed.
With my dump bed, I have the pipe over the frame and up in front of the bed headache rack.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Indiana Cornfields
Flex pipe. It ain't pretty, but that is what I did on the driver's side of my truck and it has worked fine so far. But I also have a flatbed. I figure the flexpipe will go bad sooner or later, but it is pretty cheap at truck stops
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
Never said it will be easy, but it ain't nothing a decent pipe-bender can't handle. As far as clearance, how about running the pipes under and across the frame rails right behind the TTB radius arms, those already hang pretty low as is.
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,449
Likes: 5,518
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
while i have a turbo on my truck, this will still work.
i took 2 3 inch 90º elbows, and cut one side in half, then welded them together to make a "T" pipe.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...port/pipe1.jpg
this was connected to the down pipe.
each side pipe is then made to run outside the frame with an assortment of 90º elbows and small lengths of pipe. it runs along the frame with a piece of flex pipe to keep it from breaking , and up through the bed with a 3 to 4 inch adapter, and 4 inch stacks.
there are 3 90º elbows for each side.
on the first system, i drilled water drain holes in the bottom of the bed elbows and "T" pipe to let rain water escape. this system rotted out within 3 years. the second system i made, had no drains in it, and lasted 15 years.
the current system is only 2 years old now, and still looks like i just put it on.
i took 2 3 inch 90º elbows, and cut one side in half, then welded them together to make a "T" pipe.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...port/pipe1.jpg
this was connected to the down pipe.
each side pipe is then made to run outside the frame with an assortment of 90º elbows and small lengths of pipe. it runs along the frame with a piece of flex pipe to keep it from breaking , and up through the bed with a 3 to 4 inch adapter, and 4 inch stacks.
there are 3 90º elbows for each side.
on the first system, i drilled water drain holes in the bottom of the bed elbows and "T" pipe to let rain water escape. this system rotted out within 3 years. the second system i made, had no drains in it, and lasted 15 years.
the current system is only 2 years old now, and still looks like i just put it on.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Tom that is exactly how I made my splitter.
Mine is downpipe, then straight back to the rear of the cab.
At the rear of the cab, a 90 turned straight up goes right into the splitter.
The pipes out of the splitter are attached to the channel that holds my under bed tool boxes.
Then at the outside of the bed, a 90 turns up again with the stacks attached to the 90's.
All joints are welded except where the down pipe attaches to the extension pipe behind it.
No drain holes, been on there for about 9 years, looks like new except where the stacks hit the headache on my bed from time to time when I hit a moon crater in the road.
I welded everything since my bed dumps, the stacks are self supporting above the frame height.
Mine is downpipe, then straight back to the rear of the cab.
At the rear of the cab, a 90 turned straight up goes right into the splitter.
The pipes out of the splitter are attached to the channel that holds my under bed tool boxes.
Then at the outside of the bed, a 90 turns up again with the stacks attached to the 90's.
All joints are welded except where the down pipe attaches to the extension pipe behind it.
No drain holes, been on there for about 9 years, looks like new except where the stacks hit the headache on my bed from time to time when I hit a moon crater in the road.
I welded everything since my bed dumps, the stacks are self supporting above the frame height.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,255
Likes: 0
From: Sweet Home, OR
I'm not a stacks guy myself but I helped a buddy one time do a very time-consuming but extremely cool stacks install. It was on an '89 Dodge with a cummins so we didn't really need dual stacks but he wanted them for looks. He was a pretty good body and paint guy for being self-taught so we notched the cab and bed at there jucture where they come together (almost) behind the doors.
Then welded in some 6" pipe we sectioned longitudinally, into 1/4 round pieces, into the "holes" we cut. A LOT OF CUTTING, FITTING AND WELDING!!!!!
This made a 1/2 round "pocket" in the rear corner of the cab and the front corners of the bed with the gap between the bed and cab included.
We mounted 4" stacks basically flush with the body lines and had support for the stacks bolted to the front of the bed between it and the cab.
Of course he did all of the body work and painted it to match.
This is one of the many things I wish I had taken pictures of over the years.
Then welded in some 6" pipe we sectioned longitudinally, into 1/4 round pieces, into the "holes" we cut. A LOT OF CUTTING, FITTING AND WELDING!!!!!
This made a 1/2 round "pocket" in the rear corner of the cab and the front corners of the bed with the gap between the bed and cab included.
We mounted 4" stacks basically flush with the body lines and had support for the stacks bolted to the front of the bed between it and the cab.
Of course he did all of the body work and painted it to match.
This is one of the many things I wish I had taken pictures of over the years.
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