Some things never end...here's my latest idea: buy a switch kit from Jeg's that has a starter button and two switches. The idea is to replace the faulty ignition in my truck. Can i run the ignition to a toggle switch, and then the starter to the button? Or is this way too much work? If it's an undertaking, I'll tackle it, but if it's major, why I'll just buy a new ignition....how cool would a starter button be. Has anyone done this?

 

Starter button is easy.
Just tap into a 12 volt source and run the other side of switch to the "S" terminal of the solenoid.

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The starter button is easy like mil1ion said.
However dont forget there is more to the ignition switch than just start and ignition. There is also the "stuff" powered by the ignition switch being in "run", and those powered by the switch being in "acc" and "run".
Still easy to do you will need one push button switch for the starter, 2 on/off switches, some terminal lugs of the appropriate size to connect the wires to the switches and maybe some tape.
Large yellow wire is the power to the old ignition switch, this wire has to be connected to one side of each of the 3 switches. So I guess that means you need some wire also
On the other side of the push button switch connect the red/blue striped wire. This will close the starter relay when pushed.
On the other side of on/off switch #1 connect the 2 red/green striped wires. This will send voltage to the coil +, the voltage regulator and a few other "goodies" when it is turned on.
On the other side of on/off switch #2 connect the black/green stripe and black wires. This is the switch is turned on to replace the "acc" or "run" position of the old ignition switch. This switch will have to be on for power to go to the "stuff" that used to be powered when the old ignition switch was in "acc" or "run", like guages and wipers etc.
The last wire is sort of optional and would need its own switch to function, but it would just be a test switch. This wire sends a ground to the brake warning light to check the bulbs. It comes into play whenever the igniton switch, old one, is turned to start.
Hope this answers your questions. Oh yeah I "assumed" you had a '77 by your sig line. If you dont have a 73-79 vintage the wire colors may be off.
I also wish to state I am not liable if someone steals your truck, as it would be real easy, and for any mistaken wire colors or other problems that could cause a fire or other bad things to happen
Do this mod at your own risk! Or just breakdown and buy a new ignition switch

Sparky

 

Thanks a lot! that's got to be the fastest and most competant reply I've ever gotten! It'll be a wihle till i get to it, but i hope i remember to post how it went. The truck will someday be a show/race vehicle, that's some of the reason I want to do this. There is some question as to the year of the truck, but it is in the range.

 

hey sparky do u have details like that for the 67-72 trucks.??

 

I cant find my wiring diagrams for those years, I think I will have to go get some new ones
However the switch installation should be the same. The wires may even be the same color code. Ford used the same color designators for their wiring circuits for a quite a few years.
But I cant be sure the mod is exactly the same til I find those wiring diagrams
Should never have let my wife clean up the shop

Sparky

 

well tell me this.... shouldnt this work?

If i send a 2 wires from the pos and the neg of the coil to a switch...(to turn the ignition on and off)

Then i send a wire from the positive battery to the switch and from the S terminal to the switch(to engage the starter) The switch would be spring loaded. so it wont stay on.

and when i want to turn it off i simply turn the ignition switch off.

So wouldnt this work just fine?

 

Well you would need 2 switches.
One momentary on/off, meaning it is spring loaded to off, for the starter circuit. A 12 volt source, ie from the battery + fused of course to one side of this switch; and another wire from the "S" terminal of the start relay to the other side of the switch.
The other switch would need to be an on/off switch. You would only have to go from the + of the coil to one side of the switch, and from the wire that you remove from the + of the coil to the other side of the switch. Or you could use the coil - instead. Either way will work, you just do not need to use both.
But you would still need the ignition key to power all the other "stuff" on the truck, as well as to "arm" the ignition, meaning if the key isnt on there will be no power to the coil + regardless of the "new" switch positions. Plus if you turned the key off the truck would turn off.
Hope this helps some.

Sparky