Help !! Overheating...
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Guymon
A plugged radiator? Thats what it sounds like to me now after what you posted. Mine starts to get hot expecially when I pull or run over 80mph. I know that my radiator is the problem but was not sure that was yours since it happend right when the fan fell off. I never ran it with the cap off yet. I didn't think of watching the lower hose suck in as a sign of restriction in the rad. I can't think of anything else it could be.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
You Get the GOLD STAR for the day
A plugged radiator? Thats what it sounds like to me now after what you posted. Mine starts to get hot expecially when I pull or run over 80mph. I know that my radiator is the problem but was not sure that was yours since it happend right when the fan fell off. I never ran it with the cap off yet. I didn't think of watching the lower hose suck in as a sign of restriction in the rad. I can't think of anything else it could be.
You hit the nail smack on the head with your response....
Plugged up....plugged up...plugged up....
Decided since I just broke the 100k and I plan on keeping this one for awhile I would just go ahead with the replacement of it....
What a difference...I think I am almost running to cool now..I 'll have to test the temp and possible even get a higher thermostat....
even a friend of mine who travels with me a few days a week was in the truck today and asked what I had done to the Truck because it just seemed to run so much happier...
Towing an 18' enclosed trailer I barely hit the "N" in normal...
Hope this thread maybe helps someone else in the future.....
Thanks all for the help and suggestions....was all very very much appreciated...
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Guymon
Ya, mines been getting worse and worse and Im sure the sea monkeys and other stop leak additives didn't help. And at almost 200k it served its purpose. Maby when that fan came off and hit the rad it loosend up the gunk inside the top tank and and finshed plugging it. I can look through the top cap of mine and I can see 3 or 4 tubes that are completly plugged. I should have posted my first thought of the radiator to begin with since thats my problem but I didn't cause Its just a very wild coensidence that right when your fan falls your rad plugs. I guess I shouldn't leave out all the possiblities.
Anyway, how much that rad cost and where. I priced one at the parts store and they said around $500. Gave them a tax number and asked for a discount and got them down to $350. Still seems kinda high but if thats what it takes. Well, glad yours is up and running.
Anyway, how much that rad cost and where. I priced one at the parts store and they said around $500. Gave them a tax number and asked for a discount and got them down to $350. Still seems kinda high but if thats what it takes. Well, glad yours is up and running.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 790
Likes: 0
From: Danville, Pa
Ok, I'm gonna give a little HVAC secret out here. Yes, there will be some individuals high-ho'ing about NO don't do this. All I can say is, shhhhh. I am not one to pretend I know what I'm talking about when I don't.
Go to a plumbing supply house. You won't find this **** at lowes.
Get a quart of Hercules Sizzle. http://www.herchem.com/specs/sizzle.pdf
FOLLOW DIRECTIONS TO A TEE!!!! Lay the rad down completely level so that the inlet/outlet is up, and make sure the rad cap is on. Fill a bucket up with 2 gal of water. THEN pour in the sizzle. Never EVER do that step backwards. I.e. sizzle first, then water. Fill rad up and let sit for 20 min. Drain and flush out good. You will be the proud owner of a brand spankin new rad.
Don't ever use this stuff in any cooling system that contains aluminium. Because when your done, there won't be any Al left.
Don't worry if you develop a leak. These rads are completly copper. All you need is a lil 95-5 or even 50-50(what I use), flux, and a heating element of sorts. Pencil torch, soldering iron, etc.
Go to a plumbing supply house. You won't find this **** at lowes.
Get a quart of Hercules Sizzle. http://www.herchem.com/specs/sizzle.pdf
FOLLOW DIRECTIONS TO A TEE!!!! Lay the rad down completely level so that the inlet/outlet is up, and make sure the rad cap is on. Fill a bucket up with 2 gal of water. THEN pour in the sizzle. Never EVER do that step backwards. I.e. sizzle first, then water. Fill rad up and let sit for 20 min. Drain and flush out good. You will be the proud owner of a brand spankin new rad.
Don't ever use this stuff in any cooling system that contains aluminium. Because when your done, there won't be any Al left.
Don't worry if you develop a leak. These rads are completly copper. All you need is a lil 95-5 or even 50-50(what I use), flux, and a heating element of sorts. Pencil torch, soldering iron, etc.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,255
Likes: 0
From: Sweet Home, OR
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
All brass with solder joints if it is the stock radiator.
There are aluminum radiators out there in replacement parts land, but they are a downgrade in my opinion.
The biggest reason is that would require silicates to protect the aluminum, which a stock IDI does not have in the cooling system.
Even the heater cores are brass.
There are aluminum radiators out there in replacement parts land, but they are a downgrade in my opinion.
The biggest reason is that would require silicates to protect the aluminum, which a stock IDI does not have in the cooling system.
Even the heater cores are brass.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 790
Likes: 0
From: Danville, Pa
The reason you add SIzzle to water, and not vice-versa is you DON"T want it splashing out on you, when you add h2o. Theres been cases that the water being added had reacted violently with the sizzle and thus caused it to "boil" rapidly and splatter all over. Not something you want.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Another note on cooling systems....When you replace the t-stat, you will find a passage in the outlet pipe that contains a check ball. MAKE SURE THE BALL IS FREE TO MOVE !! That allows a little water to by-pass the t-stat till it opens. Mine was clogged up by someone using a type of stop-leak. The temp gauge would go way up, almost overheating before the t-stat would open.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,964
Likes: 2,725
From: Virginia
Here's a trick the radiator guy showed me to test for a plugged radiator. You can do this in the truck, or out with the radiator standing up.
Get a bucket with enough water to fill the radiator up.
Drain the radiator and take the lower hose off.
Hold your hand over the bottom outlet of the radiator to plug it off, and then fill the radiator with the bucket of water. It may be handy to have someone fill it while you plug the outlet.
When the radiator is full, quickly take your hand off the bottom outlet.
He said if the radiator is not plugged, the water will rush out of the lower outlet full force, with the stream as large as the outlet. If it comes out slow and struggles (sort of like a gas can when you do not open the air vent), then the radiator is clogged.
Get a bucket with enough water to fill the radiator up.
Drain the radiator and take the lower hose off.
Hold your hand over the bottom outlet of the radiator to plug it off, and then fill the radiator with the bucket of water. It may be handy to have someone fill it while you plug the outlet.
When the radiator is full, quickly take your hand off the bottom outlet.
He said if the radiator is not plugged, the water will rush out of the lower outlet full force, with the stream as large as the outlet. If it comes out slow and struggles (sort of like a gas can when you do not open the air vent), then the radiator is clogged.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
You can buy Pool Acid which is the same thing just not as concentrated for a lot less. 2 gals of pool acid are less then 6.00 at the store. Pool acid is just thinned hydrochloric acid. This acid has so many uses not to mention it removes rust very well.
Hydrochloric acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hydrochloric acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
larry derouin
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Apr 5, 2005 08:38 PM
JonMichael
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
May 1, 2002 11:27 AM
JonMichael
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
3
Apr 26, 2002 12:48 PM
