Those words are never good.... This last oil change I found a few pieces of metal attached to my drain plug.

Been wanting and needing to replace the motor for awhile now, the time has come. I'm wanting to go with a 351w with a slight build on it, instead of the 302 I have now with a C4 w/ a shift kit. I've never had a motor built for me so I'm not to sure what I sould be looking for or questions I should be asking at the shops I'll be going to. So some advise from ya'll would be nice to have.

Thanks,
Hoyt

 

First, define what you mean by slight build. A little over stock, or are you looking for something that will chirp the tires in second. The first thing you need to decide is aluminum or cast iron heads. This and a few other things, like what grade of gas you want to run will tell you more or less how to build the bottom end. If you want to run 87 to 89 octane, you want to go with a long rod motor with 9.0-9.5 compression with cast heads, or 10.0-10.5 with aluminum heads. This depends on the cam and combustion chamber design. They build "compression friendly" cams now that help you run higher compression without higher octane, this you need to talk to your builder about. Longer rods move the piston faster at TDC and BDC and slower throught the middle of the stroke, reducing the chance of detonation, and typically produce a torquier motor. The best route to go with a cam is call up a cam builder, or even summit or jegs, and they will ask your information and can suggest or custom grind a cam for you. The top end depends on the tranny. For a manual, you want a cam and manifold that is going to generate low to mid-range torque, and mid to top-end horsepower. If you are running an auto, there are a few variables, but ill give an example. Youre going to want a cam and manifold that build mid-range torqe and top end horse power, so the power band will kick in at around 1500-2000 rpms instead of off idle. Then you could get a torqe converter that has around a 1300-1500 stall, maybe even a little higher, but i wouldnt go over 1700. As far as a carb goes, take your pick at brands, and get one around 550 cfm. Last but not least, ignition. Youre gunna want a good distributer, not necessarily MSD, but you get what you pay for. A good coil, i prefer the Blaster 2 from MSD, and a good ignition control module. I run an MSD 6AL the 6A or equivelent will be plenty hot for what you need. After all that, its pretty much up to your builder, it never hurts to have an engine blue printed and balanced. Dialing in the carb, and finding the right plugs, after that you just have to wory about tires... hehe.

 

Thanks for the reply. I want just alittle over stock. Nothing to crazy, but something I can add too in the long run. Cast Iron heads will be fine, maybe a set of gt40 p heads with some work to them. Want a nice lope to it as far as the cam goes and maybe bored .30. I would like to run 87 to 89 octane in the motor. I want to keep my C4 tranny and I'm not to sure about what converter I have in it already. This is my daily driver so more dependable then race but hey little go fast don't hurt.

Another question I thought about was, are there anything I need to worry about with the engine swap? ie. motor mounts, or needing to change radiator out

Thanks for your help

Hoyt
Savannah, GA

 

Your old radiator should work fine, and I'm pretty sure that the 351W uses the same motor mounts as a 302 so you should be okay there too.

 

Everything will bolt right up just fine... the only thing you may have to worry about is the accesory brackets on the engine for things like PS, Alt, and AC. 351 heads even work on a 302, you just have to sleeve the head bolt holes or buy special bolts thru ford racing.

 

Remember If you still use it as a working truck Hauling over 1K lbs or Towing over 2k lbs you stay kinda conservative on the compression and build overall.

 

Well I found enough time to make it to a shop that said " yes we build motors " to leave out of there with a quote of " $10,000 " rollin out the door $7600 for the motor. Turns out they would rather sell me a crate motor from Ford Racing and get a one year warranty then build a motor. The really sad thing about that quote is I could add another three to that and buy a 2001 Lightning . Anyways I'm going to another shop this week. Sorry I haven't replyed back sooner but work has been holding me back.

Hoyt

Glad everything should bolt right up with out to much of a problem. Should I replace the old radiator or just get it cleaned, haven't had ( knock on wood) any problems with the old since I bought it.

No Power Steering or A/C to worry about.

Thats just about what I plan on Hauling and Towing nothing really more then that.

 

Just flush it out, you should be just fine... id get a 1000cfm or so electric fan if you can...or snag one outa the JY

 

Motors can be expensive for someone to build. If you are looking for a budget motor, a crate one is about your best bet or unless you have a buddy who will build it and all you have to do is buy parts. Without labor, my 521 street stroker will be around $8000.

 

Crate motor might be a good option for you. Forum sponsor Jegs sells a 347cu in (stroked 302) SB Ford crate engine complete from intake to pan for $3595.

 

Ford Racing 351 Heavy-Duty Engine - JEGS
Just another idea that Jeg's sells for $2,859.99. The only thing that I would change is to a Comp Cams 260,
COMP Cams K35-216-3 - COMP Cams High Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - summitracing.com,
or the Comp 268,
COMP Cams CL35-218-3 - COMP Cams High Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - summitracing.com. either of these will give you a nice lope and be streetable.