I've got a 2003 F450 with the 6.0 in it........I know this is the worst year for the 6.0, but I got a good deal on it. Anyway, a couple of weeks back the truck started overheating and puking black antifreeze out of the reservoir. I had no time to mess with it, so away it went to ford. After a couple of days, they told me that it need $6500 worth of work. I picked up the truck the next day and just set it to the side in the shop. I got some spare time so I got all the parts together and proceded to get into it....literally. Ford said the truck needed head gaskets, egr cooler, oil cooler, and a front cover gasket. Naturally, I took this a few steps more and did the ARP studs, Liberator EGR delete, and everything else that you should do on an engine with 120K miles while it's out of the car. Well, it's all back together except for AC condenser and front lights/grille/bumper. Problem I'm having is that it won't start. Truck cranks normally and sounds good, but no combustion. I went over all the connectors and grounds, but can't find anything missing. When I turn the key on, the injectors buzz, as they should. I've got oil pressure and fuel pressure in the upper housings. Where should I go from here?? any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks to everyone in advance,
mark

 

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I would say HPO system. Make sure, when you cranking it, you have low oil pressure. I know you said you have, but just to make sure.
When I did my head studs, EGR, ICP, and HPOP , I've had such a hard time to start up my truck. It didn't start by itself at all. Just imagine you pulled the oil rail in the heads, so they are empty, I mean full with air. To pump all of it out, takes some time. I had to go to the gas-rag trick and starter fluid, and after like 5-15 cranking my truck started to run on it's own, but it still wasn't perfect. I went to ride, and it stalled 2 times without restart. I had to use starter fluid. Since that, she runs like a champ.
Make sure, that when you start the truck up, you follow the instruction about the PCM/VGT relearn strategy and the torqushift relearn strategy.

 

OK, I'll try some starter fluid. What are the PCM/VGT and torqueshift relearn strategies? I've never heard of them.
thanks again everyone.

 

Cam Position Sensor?

 

Check out the tech folder, you'll find them.

Whenever you disconnect your batterys for a longer period of time ( like you just did ), your PCM's KAM ( Keep-Alive-Memory) will reset. Your PCM controls yor turbo VGT to make sure it works properly, so you have to do the relearn strategy. When I did mine, I did some research how our turbo works, and it is a really complicated system. Here is the relearn strategy:

• Drive the truck to bring it completely up to operating temp - VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temps be high enough to allow EGR operation...
• Disconnect both battery ground cables at the same time... turn the headlights on for about 10 minutes - this will deplete any devices that even have a chance of retaining KAM in the PCM. <o> </o>
• Turn off the headlight switch and reconnect the batteries. <o> </o>
• Cycle the key to the run position twice to allow the clear procedure to complete..... Pause in the on position long enough for the wait to start lamp to prove out and pause in the off position for 10 seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep". <o> </o>
• Start the truck and leave it idle for at least 5 minutes... you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control..... <o> </o>
• Now you can road test it and the process should be done...

Now the torqushift ( if it's automatic ) also needs to be done.

Torqushift Shift Relearning Strategy


In the tech folder you can find everything you need to know about the 6.0, check out the 6.0L bible, and I highly recommend to read in to the workshop manual, what's also in the tech folder.

 

The CMP usually throws some DTC, and his truck was running with head gasket/ oil cooler symptoms. Not being a smart**s ( I did replace mine during my no start ).

 

I personally would not use starter fluid. I saw a procedure to get the air out of the oil system (in a Ford Bulletin). I will look for it. Starter fluid is VERY hard on the engine.

 

You're right, it is hard on the engine, but I've had no other solution to crank it up. I did crank it up with a gas-rag first, but when it stalled on the side of the road, I just pulled the air filter reminder and sprayed in some starter fluid, than I cranked it. I've seen the procedure too for getting the air out, but if i good remember that is with the running engine.

 

after days of trying and running tthe batteries down, I have not been able to get this truck started. I've rechecked all the electrical connections numerous times and have use a little starting fluid to no avail. What's this gas rag you keep talking about? Should I keep trying to start it or should I check anything else before I continue?
thanks everyone for your help on this,
mark

 

Are you sure it's getting fuel to the injectors? Have you checked the small fuel filter housing in the engine compartment to make sure there's fuel there?

 

Are you sure you put the injectors back correctly? ( new copper pressure rings, new o rings )
Are you sure the seals were in perfect shape on the injector butts where the oil rail connects?
Are you sure you put the oil rails back properly?
You sure the high pressure oil lines connect properly to the oil rail, and the seals at the fittings are in a good shape?
Are you sure the pump discharge line connects properly, and used new o rings?
Are you sure your IPR is working properly? If it stuck open, your HPOP wont build pressure, won't fire the injectors.
For the first time I started my truck up after the head-studs job, it wasn't easy. You gotta make sure, your batteries are fully charged, and if you could, clamp on a high amp charger/starter. If your voltage falls under 10.5 V, your PCM shuts off. Well, I read this somewhere, sometime, I'm not sure.
Make sure you cycling your key to get the most air out from the fuel system.
The gas-rag trick. I soaked a rag with gasoline, and stick it in the intake with the air filter off. You gotta be careful though, unfortunately it got sucked in, and I broke the MAF sensor, so next time I put a big rubber band around it. When you crank it, you need an other person to pull it out - when it starts - or you have to be like superman, and jump to pull it. It is unreal how strong the suction is.
Well, this is the short version, and let me tell you, I was a hair away to give up, when my truck started, and started to run on it's own.

 

I'm sure of all the above.........If I remember right, I believe there is a fitting the oil rail that I can unscrew. I'm gonna pull the VC and check for this fitting and fill the oil rail with oil (maybe this will help to get all the air out and prime the pump at the same time). I'll charge the batteries all the way and definitely will do the gas rag trick...........thanks everyone
I'll keep you all posted.