Has anyone used Rust Bullet? How did you apply? Did you fellows undercoat cab? What product?
Thank You!

 

I was wondering the same thing. I was thinking about maybe sand blasting under the cab and bed and then using something like Line-X but the roll on kind. I figure it will make cab a little more quiet too.

PS I am assuming you are talking about the underside of you truck, if not sorry. oops

 

Best way to apply the rust encapuslators (POR, Rust Bullet Ect.) is with a brush as they are self leveling type of product. Also make sure the product is UV stable, as most are not and require top coating with specific paints.

However they do not work if you sand blast every thing clean. There designed to convert the iron oxide to inert and prevent 02 and moisture from reaching it and starting the process all over again.

For a really good sound deadener try Second skin spray on from second skin audio. Same stuff as the big boys but less cost. It is white, sprays on with a shutz gun and is water based. really quiets the tinniness down. Second skin also sells a product like dynamat but a lot cheaper.

Second Skin is avalible through ICMenu ask for Steve

Garbz

 

Not a good indicator, used rust bullet on seat springs before having them covered and used a primer gun to apply. Understand a quality epoxy primer, or epoxy primer-sealer also have the rust preventive additives included, not sure if there would be any topcoat issues using the Rust Bullet. If intend having shop paint the vehicle may want to get their opinion. Suggest run a search on 'Rust Bullet' and narrow the field to the 'paint and bodywork' forum, topic comes up on occasion.

 

Planning to use rust converter of some kind in areas where sand blasting is inpracticla (inside body mounts, inside doors, seams).

 

Just going through this right now on the front frame rails and, radiator support and crossmember. First clean them off good and then wire brush or 3M pads depending on room. Then use Eastwoods 2 part rust converter brushed on where needed. Let cure overnight and then spray with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator the next day. Let that cure overnight and then spray with either Extreme Chassis Satin Black or Underhood Black depending on location. Small parts are sandblasted and then dunked in a rust converter solution for a few minutes just in case. Then followed by the encapsulator and then the Underhood Black.

Did this on the front of the big Merc last year and works well. The Rust Bullet I had I ended up taking to the recycle center as it didn't perform well enough for my standards.

 

Tried just about every rust converter product on the market. About 2-3 yrs ago used the Por15 in engine compartment, and chassis on 65 and seems to be holding up well. Current project, 64 passenger vehicle, used the Eastwood 'encapulator' rust converter kit on replacement floor pans as soon as they arrived, pending installation, have not gotten around to it as yet, this was 3-4 months ago and surface rust starting to show. Same with the firewall. On same project, applied couple coat of epoxy primer on exterior about 6 months ago and still holding up well. There is a heck of alot of post on the topic of 'rust converters', and 'rust bullet' in the paint and bodywork forum.

 

Application error with the Eastwoods? My testing environment is the Hornet sitting in sea water. The Eastwoods stuff definitely holds up longer than the POR-15 did and that meant sitting in water during the rainy season. Both were top coated, as on my cars, but the POR-15 area had rust spots coming through both layers by 3 months. The only Eastwood area that showed rust was an inside deck, with a leak, that took two years of water to bring some rust through without the top coat. It was after that that I got rid of the POR-15 and I should correct myself that my comparison is POR-15 and not Rust Bullet vs. Eastwood. Also note that I don't believe in using any of them without first using a rust converter. An encapsulator paint and rust converter are not the same thing.