I am wanting to go from points to duraspark on my 390. What is it going to take? Will the stock wiring and stock coil work? Will I need a new harness? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

You will need a duraspark module, the wiring harness and distributor. I have heard you can change your distributor into an electronic one by transplanting the top of one to the points one you have, but I have never tried it. Your old coil should work, but you will probably get a stronger spark from the newer one. Plug gaps change to .044 if I remember right. Have fun you will enjoy the difference. Oh yeah the distributor, if you decide to get a new one for that FE was only avaiable on 76 (maybe 75 also) trucks.

Sparky

 

Thanks for the reply Sparky, you helped me out alot

 

Look for the Company called Pertronix, They manufacture a breakerless electronic system for ignition systems that replace points, all you do is remove the distributor cap and rotor, remove points and condenser, install the Pertronix unit, run the two wires from the unit to the Ignition coil, install the magnetic piece over the points cam, reinstall the rotor and cap, start vehicle, set timing, and go. This system handles big ignition coils also and you don't have the elctronic wiring and box to mess with, looks original also, sells for 60-75 bucks I believe, J.C. Whitney used to sell them, good stuff, they also don't miss at higher RPM's.
I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for by going from points to Duraspark, but if you are going from points to breakerless iginition, go to Pertronix, not Duraspark, much better and much less complicated to work with. Hope this helps, Electric1

 

thanks a ton man, this system sounds great. but what is a breakerless ignition? Does it mean a pointless system? thanks a TON.

 

69, Points systems are called "breaker" points, hence the name "breakerless" for the electronic systems.

Both the DuraSpark and the Pertronix are magnetic pick-up type ignitions, and they are very reliable. It's your choice which to use. If you do go with the Pertronix, get the later model Pertronix II system. It will handle the increased current flow of aftermarket (higher output voltage) coils, if you decide to use one.

 

OK Ill do that thanks for the inf and the advice.

 

One more point you may want to think about. Parts for the DuraSpark system are available at any parts store, anywhere.

Another thing about DuraSpark. Find a Ford OEM module if you can. They are far superior to any aftermarket units. Heat is an electronic modules greatest enemy. Ford had a TSB out about mounting the module about 1/4" off the fender with spacers to get air under it for additional cooling.


over!

 

Now thats a good argument for the duraspark. I still haven't decided what Im gonna do, it seems like every time I get close to deciding someone like Torque1st comes up with a bit of info to get me thinking again. LOL this sure is alot of fun though, since I'm in no hurry to get the unit right now. Thanks a lot for all the replies.

 

In my opinion Fords duraspark 2 is the best electronic ignition ever built.Very reliable and as torque1st said if you have trouble you can get parts anywhere.Also has a very hot spark.Just pull the coil wire out of the coil and crank it over the spark will jump somewere.
larry

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 18-Mar-02 AT 03:32 PM (EST)]Just one other point on the DuraSpark. It has a timing retard feature, when the starter is turning. This eases the load on the starter, and allows for easier and quicker engine starting.

Torque1st, that's interesting about the TSB on the DS module. I think I will try that, as "preventive maintainence". Thanks.

 

Glad to be of assistance. The aftermarket replacement DS modules seem to be even more heat sensitive than the Ford OEM. Keep them all as cool as possible. I run DS on all of my carb' vehicles. I like that spark retard function :-)

There was an article a few months ago in a 4x4 mag about aftermarket ign modules (MSD etc). They took a bunch of them and stacked them up against an OEM module on a dyno. I think it was a GM HEI, but the results did not look good for the aftermarket boys.

The OEM's have a lot riding on getting the engine to operate properly with CAFE standards and the EPA, both short term and long term. Missfires etc would cost them dearly. Look at what Ford is going thru right now with their TFI modules. The modules like GM's HEI, and Ford Duraspark, that have stood the test of time, are the best option! Except maybe for some extreme applications.

My 78 F250 rebuild will either get: 1- An accel blueprint dist with a DS-Blue module or; 2- If I can find someone with a distributor machine to set up my almost new (<10K) OEM dist to ~71 specs with a DS-Blue. Failing to find a distributor machine, I just may try to rig up one myself. I have tach's, variable speed drives, vac equip, and ocilloscopes

The only other option in my books would be a DUI(HEI) distributor.


over!

 

 

since everybody is on the subject what is the ballast resistor is it really needed and where is it on the truck or can I just buy another one does it just hook in line with the coil wire to the switch.

 

In order to get a hot spark while the starter motor is running the coil is designed to work on about 9 volts. When the starter is running, due to the heavy current draw, the available battery voltage drops. If you run a standard coil with about 14 volts (charging system voltage) the coil will overheat and burn up. The output stage of the ignition module is only designed to handle a fixed amount of current also. The higher voltage will force more current thru the coil and thru the module output also. To bring the current under control for normal running, a ballast resistor is used. The value of the ballast resistor is determined by the design of the system. Ford uses a resistor wire on some vehicles as part of the ignition harness. This wire is made using controlled amounts of impurities in the copper, and a specific wire size, to produce a specified number of ohms/foot resistance. The length of the wire used then determines the final resistance value. Ford has found this to be more reliable than an actual ballast resistor module like Chrysler uses. The heat from the power dissipated is spread over a larger area. The connections to a chrysler type ballast resistor get quite hot and are a point of failure in those systems.

Speaking of ignition modules... The Chrysler module, used on older V-8s, is also quite good as modules go. If you have to work on a Chrysler system or use a ceramic type ballast resistor the connections should NOT be made with standard crimp on wire terminals. Go to an appliance parts store and get the crimp on wire connectors made for heater terminals in an electric dryer. These terminals are made of a special alloy that will work with the effects of high temperatures without corroding or losing their crimp/connection pressure. These connectors are a good thing to use on the blower motor resistor module used for the heater blower motor speed control connections also.

The ballast resistor (or wire) is found in the circuit from the ignition switch to the coil + terminal. The ballast resistor wire on a Ford is found in the wiring harness. It will be weld-spliced to a normal wire somewhere within the wiring harness.