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I have a '48 F4 with a 302 from an '88 Grand Marquis (switched to carb) and I am converting the electrical system to 12 volt. I would like to keep the starter button because I want the truck to "look" as stock as possible. The bad news is that we I got the truck it was missing pretty much everything (long story) so I don't have the orginal ignition switch, light switch, starter button, anything. What kind of switches will I need to purchase to work with a 12 volt system? Can I buy original style 6 volt switches or will I need to use later model 12 volt switches?
Any quality 6v switch will work fine on 12v, because the current loads are 1/2. The starter solenoid though ought to be a 12v, and I know of no 12v solenoids that use the original Bonus Built scheme where the button grounds the solenoid coil. So all you need to do is use a 2-wire mid-fifties starter button with a modern Ford solenoid.
There have been a bunch of posts on here about problems with the cheaply made chinese solenoids sold on eBay, stay away from them. If you have the donor car's solenoid, it would be a good choice.
There have been a bunch of posts on here about problems with the cheaply made chinese solenoids sold on eBay, stay away from them. If you have the donor car's solenoid, it would be a good choice.
Would that be the same as Unscrupulously manufactured parts of Asian origin??? Just trying to avoid the scalding retrobution of the PC Police...
The way mine is set up ( 55 f100) converted from 6v to 12v i used the original starter button, and a modern ford solenoid. You can pick the solenoid up at any local parts supplier for around 15.00. If wired correctly it should work.....goodluck
So the ignition switch I could use either the 6v or a 12v from a mid fifties truck, but the starter button would need to come from the mid fifties truck.
I do have a modern solenoid already.
So then the biggest hurdle is wiring it correctly.
you can get starter button from most any heavy truck dealer or napa. sometimes industrial-forklift application- lots of different options for button. all will work. i personally would use 12volt headlight switch, lots of current flowing here.
The 48-52 starter button has one wire and it grounds the wire when pushed. The 53-on starter button looks exactly the same, but has two wires that it connects when you push it. The older solenoid coils were "hot" and just needed the terminal grounded to close, while the newer ones want power applied to them. So the two-wire buttons have power from the battery or ignition switch on one wire, and the other goes to the solenoid.
anything i ever got made in argentina has been crap also! especially condensors!!!!
I just got my brake flex lines out of Argentina - they look great! Hopefully they will hold up, and time will tell, but they'll get me on the road. Of all the things on cars, I stay on top of the brakes and oil changes over anything else...so if there IS a problem, I'll catch it early. But, they look every bit as good as any other's I've seen. And the place I got them from, that's all they seem to do, is flex lines for all sorts of vehicles. Time will tell...
you can get starter button from most any heavy truck dealer or napa. sometimes industrial-forklift application- lots of different options for button. all will work. i personally would use 12volt headlight switch, lots of current flowing here.
Given the same resistance, a 6-volt circuit carries twice the current of a 12-volt circuit.
Given the same resistance, a 6-volt circuit carries twice the current of a 12-volt circuit.
Maybe obvious, but that means that the 6 volt circuits can easily handle any 12 volt loads, but not necessarily vice-versa - a 12 volt switch might burn up in a 6 volt system. Thus, it's FAR better to use the original 6 volt switches (if in good shape), when you convert to 12 volt, than replace your 6 volt switches with 12 volt ones, if you stick with 6 volts system. That's why, it's usually unnecessary (unless the wiring is bad!), to replace the 6 volt wiring when you convert to 12 volts. I'm keeping mine 6 volt, but replacing all the wiring, with modern, but fabric like the old style, rated for 6 volts. When I die, whoever gets the truck, if they decide to go 12 volt, there won't be any problems with the wiring...
can't argue with facts! my contention was that perhaps switch was a little knarly, so possibly could short out. guess i was thinking worst case scenario.
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