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Barry at Survival Motorsports would be a good start as he can help you build it from the ground up. Ebay, and some other will sell you the crank and likely leave the rest up to you ??? cant say for sure on that. Break out your wallet, this is going to hurt unless your a senators son.
If you want a lite stroker get a 428 crank and make a 410+ outa the thing.
I can't tell you where to buy from....but I can give you a few tips.
I generally steer toward the Scat cranks because they are dimensionally decent out of the box. The RPM steel cranks (often sold as private label parts) are OK when fixed up, but not very consistant as delivered.
I use race bearings on all my packages. The F-M 125M race bearings have a 3/4 oil groove that seems to really work well with the FE. The rod bearings need to be race stuff in order to clear the chamer radius on the crank. If someone sells a kit with passenger car bearings you will run into trouble at some point with side loading.
I internal balance all my stuff so that we can run a readily available 390 or 427 flexplate or flywheel - 428 parts cost a bundle more if you can even get them. The most popular kits take one or two slugs of mallory to go internal.
Probe pistons are very nice parts, but they only offer them in .030 over. Diamond has a wide variety of piston sizes at a somewhat higher cost.
The stroker kits do not require any grinding on OEM blocks. The Genesis block will sometimes require a light clearance alongside numbers 2 and 4 main bulkheads, and under the lifter valley - sometimes.
If you need to pick up a bit of main bearing clearance you can use race bearings from a 351 Cleveland, by grinding off the locator tangs - they serve no real function....
wouldn't it be wise to add that if you are to go with an aftermarket stroker kit that one should go with the biggest stroke without having to do major surgery to the block since the stroker kits of various displacements are relativley the same price? maybe give or take a couple hundred bucks?
wouldn't it be wise to add that if you are to go with an aftermarket stroker kit that one should go with the biggest stroke without having to do major surgery to the block since the stroker kits of various displacements are relativley the same price? maybe give or take a couple hundred bucks?
Well not everyone will want to use the largest stroke in there build.. Depends on what the end use is for the Motor... Not everyone would want a 4.250" crank in a 390 and make say 300hp and 500ft lbs of Tq.. @ 2000 rpm. LOL
There is and ad on Craigslist Dallas-Fort Worth for a 390 Stroker Kit,Eagle crank and rods for $395 each,roughly $800 bucks for both. This is the best deal I've seen on this combo.I'm thinkin' this will beat Summit's price.
The links are below. I hope they work for ya,the links that is. This the first time I've ever sent a link.Good Luck with your project.
395.00 ? for a 428 crank, that thing cant be 0 balanced, if not a reject for that matter ??? Or could it ??
Was thinking the same thing. Also I never heard of Eagle making 428 cranks. I know Scat does. Or if maybe they both import the same castings?? Unless the market has got that bad on parts it might be a defect or 2nd of some sort. Dunno. Barry would be the best person to answer that being he works with these daily.
3.98" stroke for the 428 crank and the normal 390/427 rods along with 381P or similar pistons will get you a std 410ci unless you have to overbore it then the cubes bump slightly. That would be a real basic stroked 390
Cast steel is just your normal everyday nodular iron really. But for Advertising purposes they chose "cast steel". Scat first used the same wording but later changed to a more honest approach. Eagle still uses "cast steel" in their ads.
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