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Now for the update. I found the problem to be(after changing dist, coil, ign module & countless other things) the plug for the ignition module. The 4th wire from top was not as tight of a connection as the rest. I was finally able to duplicate problem at idle by pulling on plugs & wires until I pulled on this one, then the truck died. I took apart this connector & tightened each connection. Now truck runs w/o missing. Thanks to RL, David, & Richard at work for their help in finding this problem!!
Well, I was a bit premature in celebrating. This miss is back although not as often. Again, it feels like the key is turned off then right back on. I am needing some suggestions in finding this problem!
Neither of those codes is realted IMO, first 2 are for the tranny and the last is operator error during the KOER test. Your problem sounds like it could be power related, maybe the fuel pump or EEC relays are opening momentarally due to corrosion or broken wire, or your ignition switch is failing.
Your problem sounds like it could be power related, maybe the fuel pump or EEC relays are opening momentarally due to corrosion or broken wire, or your ignition switch is failing.
I don't want to sound like an idiot, but how do you check a relay other than replace it? Or are you talking about corrosion in the connector itself? Conanski, as always, I appreciate your insight.
I'd test the wire between the PCM connector and tranny solenoid pack connector for continuity for the 621 code. If the wire is good I'd ground its lead manually to see if the solenoid is good as well as if necessary connecting a small light to it so I could visually see if the computer is giving the command for it to shift. Repairing the wire, Replacing the pack and or the computer depending on what the tests showed.
Solenoid should have 20-30ohms resistance red to white lead (your colors may be different?). If resistance is high or has continuity to ground via either lead, replace the pack.
Code 632 is nothing unless you did cycle the O/D on off switch during the test as directed. If you know the switch works, IE it does down shift but it failed that test even though you did cycle the button during the test it could be a sign the computer is bad.
Code 411 could be further proof the computer is bad or dieing, could also be a sign the TPS is bad?
Not sure what all you tested to this point but I'd start with code 621, it is a KOEO test failed. The computer gets no response from Solenoid circuit 1 from the get go so it will not work right when running down the road. You need to find out why it fails that test and correct it before leaving the driveway for a road test.
Code 632 is nothing unless you did cycle the O/D on off switch during the test as directed. If you know the switch works, IE it does down shift but it failed that test even though you did cycle the button during the test it could be a sign the computer is bad.
I didn't cycle the switch never saw a prompt on scan tool I used to do so, but the switch works as it turns OD on/off while going down the road.
I didn't cycle the switch never saw a prompt on scan tool I used to do so, but the switch works as it turns OD on/off while going down the road.
That code is nothing then, it is normal to get it when not cycling the switch when required. I never do as like you I know it works and reacts to it when driving down the road.
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