Has anyone had a chance to try an O2 Sensor Simulator on your truck? I am wondering if they actualy work or if I should just stay away from them. Are there any problems or improvements using a SIM?

 

I have been meaning to try this for some time. Someone makes a kit with two led's that go on and off depending on the fuel mixture. It would be an interesting experiment.

 

I think you may be a bit confused to what an O2 Sensor Simulator is.

An O2 Sensor Simulator is a device that replaces your O2 Sensor. It does not need to be hooked up to your exhaust system. It emulates the O2 Sensor and fools the computer to think that there is an O2 Sensor installed.

This is handy when your sensor craps out or if you dont want to bother drilling holes in your expensive exhaust system.

 

I have some in the garage to put on, just haven't done it yet. Have alot of friends running them on their Mustangs and have not had any problems with them. If you are planning on doing any mods, I would probably suggest it to keep the engine light from coming on, but they are not mandatory for mods. But to answer your question - yes they do work...

JMO...

 

Hmmm, maybe I should work on newer trucks more often, or read the posts more carefully.

 

Hi,

This is not a "flame", I am just curious as to why you would want this. Why?

The way I understand O2 sensors they develope a small voltage (<1 volt),that is directly related to the air/fuel ratio of the engine, by "sniffing" the exhuast gases. This voltage allows the computer to constantly adjust the injector pulse going to the injectors to maintain the A/F ratio at about 14:1. Everytime you move your foot on the gas pedal this ratio will try to change. The computer takes up for this.

By installing a "simulator" I believe that you are fooling the computer into thinking the A/F ratio is a constant perfect 14:1. I feel that this would NOT be a good idea for performance or gas mileage. I could be wrong and if someone can explain this better please chime in. It could also possibly cause an engine to NOT pass an emissions test.

If you have performed some engine Mod's and now have a "check engine" light on due to an over rich A/F ratio this simulator may fool the computer and turn off the light. Not sure.

Anyway, sorry for the rant, just trying to learn more about this subject.

Lee

 

 

Lee, your right and here's why...


Ok, here's an explination of these. They are also refered to as MIL Eliminators (malfunction indication lamp).

On a later model mustang (which they are poplular for) There are 4 O2 sensors. (two per side) The first ones are fed back to the computer to feedback air/fuel ratio to be used to calculate injector timing, etc. If you replace these with eliminators, the vehicle won't run right. The second set of 02s are only there to tell the OBD2 Monitor that the mixture is too far out of EPA range, and causing excess pollution. (i.e. you pulled the cats and are using an offroad H pipe) These are the ones the elimiators were designed for. They tell the OBD2 that things are all Ok all the time.

If you only have one 02 per bank and install eliminators, your computer won't know what's going on and will not run properly.

 

Can anyone tell me where I can find and O2 simulator that will work yet be inexpensive? I have a magnaflow exhaust on my 03 F150 but i want to remove all 4 cats to have the full effect. It is my understanding that the first 2 are ok if i remove the 4 cats but i need the simulators for the last 2 towards the rear in order to avoid a CEL and mess up my fuel mixture..

Thanks,
Jose

 

I did a internet search and found several places that sell them.

 

Every one of my last few vehicles all have had oxygen sensor simulators. I typically remove the catalytic converters to improve my gas mileage. You can only install the simulators to replace the rear oxygen sensors. You cannot use 02 simulators in anyway for the front oxygen sensors as The ECM uses the sensors to adjust your engine's Air/Fuel ratio. Contrary to what some people might say the ECM only will throw a CEL for the re sensor ifar 02 the voltage is to high or to low , if the dwell time between low and high is to long or to short , and if the 02 heater circuit is open, has too many amps or to little amps. I know this because I've hand built the 02 simulators used on my vehicles. It really isn't the rocket since that some people make it out to be. In the future you may say look up tables to check between the rear and front 02 sensor data but do you really think companies that will not even use bolts where they can get away with it are going to splurged on ECU memory and programming, I think not...

 

you don't happen to have a schematic or instructions on how to make them do ya

 

Try asking google...

 

This would be the third time this nearly 11 year old thread has been revived from the dead.