Pcm Code Location
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
All the ones I've seen are 3 letters and a number, like PMT2 or VCQ4.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
To find your PCM code, you can either remove the case from the back of the PCM and look at the code or you can take a small mirror and check the sticker on the connector. The connector is located on the firewall directly below the master cylinder about 2 inches from the driver's fender. On the side of the connector facing the fender is a sticker with the part number and Catch (Box) Code. Depending on the year of the truck you will find something like XLE4, PMT2, NVK3... always 3 letters & 1 number.
This is an instruction I found on an old post and I was able to read the code on the connector using a flashlight and a mirror. PITA but it worked.
This is an instruction I found on an old post and I was able to read the code on the connector using a flashlight and a mirror. PITA but it worked.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Well, Jody can tell you what PCM code you have just from the VIN from what I hear. The ones I am familiar with are PMT 1 and 2 and NVK4. Again, call DP, or pull the PCM out. It will be clearly labeled. Probably quicker than calling.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
the vin will work as long as the PCM has never been changed..
a pic is worth 1000 word's
http://www.dp-tuner.com/documentatio...PCM%20Code.pdf
if you need to pull the PCM..
http://www.dp-tuner.com/documentatio...STALLATION.pdf
a pic is worth 1000 word's
http://www.dp-tuner.com/documentatio...PCM%20Code.pdf
if you need to pull the PCM..
http://www.dp-tuner.com/documentatio...STALLATION.pdf
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
To find your PCM code, you can either remove the case from the back of the PCM and look at the code or you can take a small mirror and check the sticker on the connector. The connector is located on the firewall directly below the master cylinder about 2 inches from the driver's fender. On the side of the connector facing the fender is a sticker with the part number and Catch (Box) Code. Depending on the year of the truck you will find something like XLE4, PMT2, NVK3... always 3 letters & 1 number.
This is an instruction I found on an old post and I was able to read the code on the connector using a flashlight and a mirror. PITA but it worked.
This is an instruction I found on an old post and I was able to read the code on the connector using a flashlight and a mirror. PITA but it worked.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,708
Likes: 5
From: Kiowa CO
I don't think so. It's really not hard to pull the PCM. Just keep your keys in your pocket or on the workbench. No need to unhook the batteries either. 10 minutes and it's out. You need the 10mm deep socket, 1/4" drive and some patience. Once you pull it, you see it not that tough of a job.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
I don't think so. It's really not hard to pull the PCM. Just keep your keys in your pocket or on the workbench. No need to unhook the batteries either. 10 minutes and it's out. You need the 10mm deep socket, 1/4" drive and some patience. Once you pull it, you see it not that tough of a job.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Did you rewire your GPR. Getting any codes?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
I emailed Jody, and a simple re-wire of the GPR is all that's needed- you take the two leads for each bank off of where they are and put them on the center post (you have to modify that fancy little plastic cover if you want it to go back on). No codes... well at least no SES light. Runs quieter, shifts better, fuels better (judging by the black smoke out the tails when I matted it and EGT's hitting 950*). I posted on Sunday I think, I'll try and dig it up for you.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: D'Hanis, TX
I don't know about other model years, but my 2000 F250 was not real easy. There is was no way that I could get the 10 mm bolt out without following the instructions in the Haynes book. Just not enough room for my hands and the wrench at the same time. The instructions are to remove tire and take the fender liner out -- I cheated and only partically removed the liner without removing the tire. Then it was a snap to get the bolt out and to the code. Did mine a week ago. I was looking because I discovered duct tape over the end of the PCM. (I've only had the truck 7 months.) Result of inspection revealed that at 'some time' there had been something connected to the edge connector -- cleaned etc.