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it's the axle control arm...can't remember their proper name. the part that runs from the axle to about middle of the door on the frame.
it runs through a metal bracket and a single nut/washer hold it on. the rubber peices wear out over time and start to click/pop when you go over bumps.
to replace, that bracket is held on by rivets. you have to drill/grind out those rivets and replace them with GRADE 8 bolts. the bushing you need to replace is about $10 at most parts store. It takes some finessing, but you can do it in your driveway. I've done it several times and while a PITA, it's doable. if you're not patient or mechanically handy, it's about a $200 job at most shops
oh yeah, the passenger side usually wears out x2 the rate the drivers side does. that's because the exhaust pipe runs fairly close to that bracket and the rubber gets brittle from the heat
Thats the radius arm that Tylus is talking about. Its common for them the busung to wear out. If it needs replaced, use poly bushings.
If the noise is more of a creaking noise, its likely that the transmission crossmember bolts are slightly loose. I believe that Ford issued a TSB about it. You can try to tighten them up a little by using a torque wrench. Maybe somone remembers how tight they are supposed to be.
My truck does this somtimes. I retightened them a few years ago and it was better, but never completely went away.
yeah its a 2WD truck, and it doesnt hapen going over bumps like speed bumps where both wheels are even. Only happens when one wheel is not even with the others.
And yes it is a sort of pop, knock, cracking sound.
So i should check the
ball joints, tie rod ends, shock bushings, radius arm, and trans cross member bolts?
should I be looking for wear, play, slack?
Sounds more like the axle pivot bushings to me. To check them you will be jacking up the fornt end so go ahead and check the tie rods & ball joints. To check the axle pivot bushing you will need to jack up the front end and if you have a strong helper have them force the wheel that is off of the ground forward and backwards while you feel for play in the bushing. If you are doing it by yourself use a pry bar and feel for movement.
To check the tie rods you can try to force the joints apart and together by hand and if there is movement in line with the stud then reolace the tie rod. Ignore rotation since they are supposed to do that of course.
To check the ball joints have the wheel off of the ground and use a long pry bar to force then wheel up and down. If you are doing it by yourself place something to use as a fulcrum close to the wheel and use your leg on the pry bar to move the wheel up and down while you feel for movement in the upper and lower ball joints. Any direction of play in the ball joint is bad.
If you haven't done a lube job in a while then now is a good time.
You can try to tighten them up a little by using a torque wrench.
thanks for the proper name
definetely check for loosness first. no point replacing crap if it's just loose. I'll bet if you look though, you'll see the rubber is worn down/degraded
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