Rear tank leaking
Any miracle cure for a leaky rear tank, other than replacing? Truck is drivin me nuts: clutch master cylinder, leaky oil pan, busted spring shackle, now this
You should be able to get a new tank to your door for around $120 or so.
There is some stuff at the auto parts stores that may work, but they would not be worth my time, IMHO...
If it's a couple of small pin hole leaks it can probably be fixed.
Siphon off all the gas.
Drop the tank, wire wheel the bad area. Fill the gas tank with water to get any fumes out of it.
Use a propane torch with flux and acid core solder to plug any pin hole leaks.
After you're done, empty the water out.
Install the tank and put a couple cans of dry gas to absorb any remaining moisture.
You could also purchase some of the paint coatings such as Por 15. Wire wheel the whole tank then apply two coasts to the outside of the tank.
That will seal the outside of the tank and keep it from rusting.
I had an old Dodge Coronet, 1966 model, that I had the same problem with. I learned that by only filling it a little less than 3/4 of a tank, that the leaking stopped. I learned that the hole was located at the top of the tank. However, that was 14 years ago, when gas was only 99 cents a gallon for 93 octane. Boy how things have changed!
Seriously, get a new tank. I am not just saying this because everyone else is; it's a must since gas prices alone will eat your wallet or pocketbook. Good luck!
Steve
If it's a couple of small pin hole leaks it can probably be fixed.
Siphon off all the gas.
Drop the tank, wire wheel the bad area. Fill the gas tank with water to get any fumes out of it.
Use a propane torch with flux and acid core solder to plug any pin hole leaks.
After you're done, empty the water out.
Install the tank and put a couple cans of dry gas to absorb any remaining moisture.
You could also purchase some of the paint coatings such as Por 15. Wire wheel the whole tank then apply two coasts to the outside of the tank.
That will seal the outside of the tank and keep it from rusting.
NEVER !!!!!! Use a torch to solder a tank !!!!!
Use a 120 watt soldering iron.........sometimes an 80 watt will do.
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anyways i noticed a hole in it and your should be the same 19 galtank and i got a brand new one from autozone for 120 it comes in tomorow actuly
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Using a propane torch does work.
The purpose of the water is to displace any gas fumes in the tank.
Who has a bottle of nitrogen laying around?
A couple of cans of dry gas will remove any remaining moister from the tank after you dump the water out of the tank.
Acid core solder contains about 60 percent lead.
Back in the old days a skilled body man used lead to repair the cars body panels.
So lead does adhere to steel.
Another thing is the straps holding the tank will hide more rust and you could still have more holes after repairing and installing.
My 2 cents
When you fill a drained tank with water, it still doesn't displace the gasoline imbedded in the surface pores of the metal, so when it is heated, vapors capable of being ignited are evaporated out.
And solder sticks just fine to the cheap steel used in gas tanks when you use the proper flux, (stainless flux works fine).
I knew you were talking about the water displacing gasoline, oxygen and fumes which would prevent explosions. However I was a plumber for many years and soldering with water at the joint being soldered ALWAYS led to joint failure. I was using propane torches.
I mentioned nitrogen since I can get some. Purging with inert gases (NOT oxygen) would prevent the gasoline fumes/oxygen mixture from being in the explosive mixture range. I knew a guy that told me he was going to use exhaust fumes from his truck to purge an old tank before welding. I never asked him how it turned out or if he actually did it.
I still say replace the tank.




