The family and I drove to my nieces birthday party thru a down pour, truck ran beautifully. 1 1/2 hour later when we got into the truck to leave, NO START!!!!!!!!!!! I had it towed to the dealership but it will not get looked at until Monday morning. Which gives me tomorrow to perform anything else you guys come up with. So far I've done this:
- Changed out the CPS with a new grey one.
- HPOP reservoir is 1/2 inch from the top.
- Reading 70psi on the mechanical fuel bowl gauge.
- Reading 68.3 on the electric gauge after the heads, just before the orfice on the CCK.
- The stock and Carter fuel pumps are working.
- DP-tuner is set to stock
- Fuel bowl left open while key is on and fuel pours out.
- Oil changed last month and is at proper level.
- Fuse 30 is good.
- Unplugged the fuel bowl heater...no start.
- Unplugged ICP...no start.
- ICP psi reads 363psi while cranking.
- Glow plugs are operational (LED) and the truck was still warm.
- Starter is a year old and is spinning very fast.
- Batteries are good.
- No smoke (white, grey or black) is coming out of the stacks while cranking.
- Full bag of fuel from (Entec)the same station (big rig pump)I've filled up for years, I've ran 100 miles out of this tank so far.
- All fuses test good.

Brandon (bdrummonds)seems to think I may have stirred up some trash in the bottom of the HPOP reservoir during my drain/fill process and maybe clogged my IPR. I did drain and refill the HPOP reservoir earlier today.
Codes read: P0475 and P1212
I think I pulled the P1212 after I tried to start the truck when the ICP was disconnected. Does'nt it go to default if the ICP is unplugged? The P0475 should be from the EBPV sensor being deleted.
You guys got any ideas?! Something I've missed?! Thanks!

 

It is possible since you ran thru some heavy rain that water could have entered the IDM &/or harness and shorted it out. I had read about this happening, especially on the E series vans. Topic was also discussed here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ainy-days.html

 

i agree. sounds like symptoms of a faulty IDM.

 

Water in the IDM or on the back of the fuse panel if you've had your windshield replaced would go along with the rain, but 363 on the ICP is a problem. You're correct unplugging the ICP should result in a default reading of 500 psi and allow it to start, and the 1212 probably did come from unplugging it.

That's a scary thought Brandon brings up about trash sticking in the IPR, but wouldn't that let the oil in the HPOP drain down? Can you monitor IPR % along with ICP pressure?

Also, don't forget to check battery voltage while cranking.

 

Water was my first thought, but I've been thru worse without any problems in the past.

The Terminator gauge can measure ICP duty cycle and ICP psi. What color smoke should I be getting out of the exhaust during several starting attemts? I'm wondering if the injectors are firing at all with the lack of smoke?
I do have the buzz and contribution test feature in my Terminator gauge. Should I do the buzz test to see if the injectors are actually working? If injectors don't work...possibly a bad IDM, IPR or HPOP?

 

Your injectors won't fire until you reach 500 psi on the ICP. Did you get any smoke with the ICP unplugged? Had you tried to start it too many times (draining the batteries) before you unplugged the ICP?

Maybe check for cracks in the wheel well liner near the IDM? Also check the rest of your fuses. The fuel bowl heater isn't #30 in the 02 models. I want to say #105? Maybe there's another fuse that's causing the problem.

 

Good stuff, I'll go try. I'm taking the jump box too. I'll let you know.

 

Do you have a DP? And is it in the no start position? That got me one time, right after I got it though, then I didnt know how to get out of it haha. But I also have mine hidden, so it wasnt something I just could see. Hope you get it running and soon.

 

OK. Went to work on it and the truck fired up without hesitation. I did nothing. I let it warm up for 10 minutes. It started in the stock setting, I switched thru different settings on the DP-Tuner and everything worked well. I decided to get her a drive test, after about a 1/4 mile, during acceleration it died. No hesitation, it just cut off and now it won't start again. The only codes were from the EBPV disconnected and the air intake heater disconnected. I did unplug the ICP to try and start it again and it won't, the IPS reading duing the start was 6535psi on the Terminator gauge (so I know that's wrong). I plugged it back up, tried to start and the reading was around 360psi again.
Its either water in a connector or a flakey IPR or the IDM. It seems like the injectors don't have the oil pressure to squirt fuel because there is no smoke coming out of the exhaust during the cranking process. Ideas?!

 

I'm thinking electrical. Somethings not letting the PCM tell the injectors to fire. Could be an IDM issue. Have you checked for chaffed wires? any dash lights flash when it died? Glow plug light come on then go off with key on during no start?

Main engine wiring harness over the drivers valve cover, or above the valve cover on the CCV bracket, wiring harness over the front drivers shock, there's also one in the steering column that can cause problems. The only problem with that theory are no KAM codes from the PCM reset.

Anyone around there with an AE you could borrow? No smoke sounds like your injectors aren't firing, but I'm not sure I would trust your 360 psi ICP reading if the same equipment is giving you 6535 psi on the HPOP.

 

i think it sounds like you might ned new IPR. i had the same problem my ICP was low, and you can crank till you kill the starter.
time for new ipr. let us know what you found.
Joey from TE has them ......

 

Damn Chris. Looks like it's going to give you fits. I hate intermittent electrical crap. Aside from what has been mentioned, make sure the tin nut on the IPR is tight.

If you get no love soon, I would be pulling the chip until I got it running again. That would also give you a chance to look at that connection. Also, as mentioned, try starting it in neutral or messing with the shifter. Good luck.

 

Good point Mike. I forgot about the connection at the chip. Haven't people also seen a bad connection at the switch causing problems.

 

Thanks guys, I'm going to hand it off to Doc (dealership 7.3 guru) in the morning. He's a good guy and Brandon and I trust him. I'll let you guys know once the problem has been nailed down. I've got to have it fixed pretty quick because we're going camping Thursday.

 

Wow Chris, you pantie waist. I thought you might have been kidding.

I left it alone and went out to work on my boat, swim etc. I come back and you are for real. I thought surely it would be running by now. I believe I would still be out there working on it if it was mine.

Brandon, are you allowing this to go to the shop?

How are you going to sleep tonight Chris?