05 King Ranch
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
05 King Ranch
I am looking at an 05 King Ranch CC that was traded in to a local chevy dealer. It has 61K and is in decent shape from what I can tell. I buddy ran an OASIS for me and the only record found was that the trans was replaced at 20K. I currently have an 02 7.3 that is about to go for sale. I love the truck but do to the size of my family I need the crew cab.
Needless to say Im a little hesitant about going to a 6.0. I read about alot of horror stories on these forums. What problems might I expect?
What's the story behind this head gasket and stud problem that requires the cab to be pulled?
You would think Ford would come up with a more servicable design. Doesn't the 6.4 require the cab to be pulled for certain repairs also?
Needless to say Im a little hesitant about going to a 6.0. I read about alot of horror stories on these forums. What problems might I expect?
What's the story behind this head gasket and stud problem that requires the cab to be pulled?You would think Ford would come up with a more servicable design. Doesn't the 6.4 require the cab to be pulled for certain repairs also?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,665
Likes: 164
From: Cartersville, Ga
If you ran an oasis on the truck and thats all that was done to it then you should be good. The 6.0L is a good motor if operated correctly. Navistar used torque to yield bolts to keep the heads on the block. When the cylinder pressures get crazy with tuners and chips, they will let go. They have been known to stretch and blow heads on stock pickups due to the turbo veins sticking and overboosting. Some techs prefer pulling the cab b/c it was easier once you get the hang of it than pulling the motor completely out. If you leave it stock and drive it hard, you shouldnt have problems. Give the turbo a good workout when you operate it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,467
Likes: 107
From: Staten Island, NY
I have an 05 King Ranch bought new. I drive it the way it was designed to be driven (so I'm boring). It has been back to the dealer exactly ONCE - the day after I bought it a defective heater hose split.
Drive it normally, do proper maintenance and it will probably last a loooong time.
Drive it normally, do proper maintenance and it will probably last a loooong time.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,296
Likes: 11
From: freeland, mi
The only real problem you may have is the sct fitting cracking and a no start situation. It will be covered under the deductable if you have less than 100000 on it at the time. I sold my 7.3 last sept. and bought the 06 in my sig. It was stock when I bought it and would say my modded 7,3 would out pull it for sure. My next item I am possibly going to buy is the headstuds, but still researching that mod. The coil spring front end is a lot nicer to drive than the one you have for sure. I would not be to worried about buying a 6.0 especially if it has made it 61k with out trouble you should be fine. good luck and let us know what ya do.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,708
Likes: 7
From: Circle City
another aspect regarding why the stock 6.0 head bolts stretch is there is only four studs per cyl. so each bolt has to secure and take on more cyl pressure/psi. in its duty cycle. and when the owner decides to add a tuner, well, that explains that issue.
But these things are either resolvable or just a possibility that you may never incur.
I've had my truck's turbo boost gauge Pegged at over 40 psi bellowing out thick black smoke. Granted this was just for a 1/8 mile show so if my stock head bolts can handle this and still give me thousands of trouble free miles afterwards towing across country, then I wouldn't listen too much to the so-called "horror" stories. these engines are great! and the transmissions are just the same, awesome. you'll see what I mean once you get one.
But these things are either resolvable or just a possibility that you may never incur.
I've had my truck's turbo boost gauge Pegged at over 40 psi bellowing out thick black smoke. Granted this was just for a 1/8 mile show so if my stock head bolts can handle this and still give me thousands of trouble free miles afterwards towing across country, then I wouldn't listen too much to the so-called "horror" stories. these engines are great! and the transmissions are just the same, awesome. you'll see what I mean once you get one.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,918
Likes: 3,637
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>If you are looking at used 6.0's here are a few considerations (along w/ the OASIS and CARFAX reports that are essential).
Some 6.0L weak points (things to check):
Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle).
Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling).
Even without much extended idling EGR valves can plug quickly - maybe negotiate for a new EGR valve. In fact, I would negotiate for them to pull the EGR valve to inspect it (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake). Check for wetness (w/ rear end jacked up) and for excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak. If the valve is gunked up, have them replace the valve. If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well.
Look underneath for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them.
If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors (PCM, FICM, ECM).
Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.
Try to find out about the routine maintenance:
· Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI 4 + or CJ 4 - one of these is required)?
· OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
· Find proof of Transmission being flushed/changed - it is recommended every 30,000 miles.
· Any exhaust problems visible (i.e. lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.
Check for any FLUID leaks (as stated previously - LOOK SPECIFICALLY FOR OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!).
CEL (Check Engine Light) on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's. You can have active DTC’s without a CEL.
The Electronic Shift on the Fly ESOF sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD and/or take front wheels off to inspect).
Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness), sway bar (end link looseness), or ball joint looseness. Ball joints and sway bar end links tend to go out in the 70k-90k range. Jack one side up at a time and see if each wheel moves top to bottom only, if so, it is the ball joints. If it moves in all directions then probably wheel bearings.
Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant - anything else and there may be problems. Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - it should be gold colored and there should be NO OIL visible (oil emulsified in water can show up as brown sludge). As previously stated, the degas bottle should not have white residue around the sides of it (possible overheating issues).
Any evidence of a tuner (aftermarket air filter, gauges, etc)? Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.
Aftermarket air systems could be a problem. Many of them (like K&N) do not filter as well and could cause issues. Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!
Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters (fuel pressure below 45 psig can damage injectors)?
Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:
· Look at and smell the fluids. Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
· Check the tires - abnormal wear?
· How do the brakes look? Any pads need replacement? Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
· All electronics working? Especially the AC (repair can be expensive)?
· Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
· See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
· Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstery, etc.
· Does the truck look too clean? Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something.
· Any extras - tool boxes, bumpers, etc.?
· Drive it - does it hesitate, stutter, or surge? Does it blow white or black smoke? When driving, brake fairly hard - note any pulls, pops, clunks, rattles, etc. How does it accelerate? You should romp on it pretty good. Drive in reverse and then back and forth - listen for clunks.
Add or subtract value based on condition, high miles, and presence of extras.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Videos on "how to buy used":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HL_5A...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdmDL...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ClKz...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wr__Y...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erTDL...eature=related
Some 6.0L weak points (things to check):
Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle).
Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling).
Even without much extended idling EGR valves can plug quickly - maybe negotiate for a new EGR valve. In fact, I would negotiate for them to pull the EGR valve to inspect it (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake). Check for wetness (w/ rear end jacked up) and for excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak. If the valve is gunked up, have them replace the valve. If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well.
Look underneath for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them.
If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors (PCM, FICM, ECM).
Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.
Try to find out about the routine maintenance:
· Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI 4 + or CJ 4 - one of these is required)?
· OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
· Find proof of Transmission being flushed/changed - it is recommended every 30,000 miles.
· Any exhaust problems visible (i.e. lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.
Check for any FLUID leaks (as stated previously - LOOK SPECIFICALLY FOR OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!).
CEL (Check Engine Light) on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's. You can have active DTC’s without a CEL.
The Electronic Shift on the Fly ESOF sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD and/or take front wheels off to inspect).
Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness), sway bar (end link looseness), or ball joint looseness. Ball joints and sway bar end links tend to go out in the 70k-90k range. Jack one side up at a time and see if each wheel moves top to bottom only, if so, it is the ball joints. If it moves in all directions then probably wheel bearings.
Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant - anything else and there may be problems. Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - it should be gold colored and there should be NO OIL visible (oil emulsified in water can show up as brown sludge). As previously stated, the degas bottle should not have white residue around the sides of it (possible overheating issues).
Any evidence of a tuner (aftermarket air filter, gauges, etc)? Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.
Aftermarket air systems could be a problem. Many of them (like K&N) do not filter as well and could cause issues. Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!
Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters (fuel pressure below 45 psig can damage injectors)?
Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:
· Look at and smell the fluids. Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
· Check the tires - abnormal wear?
· How do the brakes look? Any pads need replacement? Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
· All electronics working? Especially the AC (repair can be expensive)?
· Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
· See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
· Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstery, etc.
· Does the truck look too clean? Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something.
· Any extras - tool boxes, bumpers, etc.?
· Drive it - does it hesitate, stutter, or surge? Does it blow white or black smoke? When driving, brake fairly hard - note any pulls, pops, clunks, rattles, etc. How does it accelerate? You should romp on it pretty good. Drive in reverse and then back and forth - listen for clunks.
Add or subtract value based on condition, high miles, and presence of extras.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Videos on "how to buy used":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HL_5A...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdmDL...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ClKz...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wr__Y...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erTDL...eature=related
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,296
Likes: 11
From: freeland, mi
Thinksnow, can I ask what they are asking for this truck? I ask because I looked at trading mine in on a 02 crew lariat acouple of weeks ago and they told me 16,500 for it. I was looking at an 02 with 87000 miles on it and they wanted 18000 for that and would give me 16500 for my 06 with 74000 miles on it. both trucks are in excellent shape but I thought it was a bunch of crap.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
Waited to long. I stopped at the dealer yesterday only to learn the truck sold on friday. Oh well, I guess it wasn't meant to be. It was for the better though. Shortly after that I ran into a buddy who has a dealers liscense and offered to take me to the auction. With the price of diesel being what it is he said the diesel trucks are selling really really cheap at auction.
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MattyNJ
6.4L Power Stroke Diesel
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Oct 7, 2010 08:53 PM
