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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 03:45 PM
  #16  
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From: south jersey
replaced the whole egr
 
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 03:47 PM
  #17  
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did you check the vacuum supply to the EGR to verify that it is working properly without leaks? I think there are two different EGR position sensors that will fit on the EGR valves, are you sure you have the correct one?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 10:41 PM
  #18  
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From: south jersey
yea its the right valve sensor... i havent hooked up a vaccum guage to it to check cause i dont have one
 
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 09:02 AM
  #19  
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From: Concord, NC
If there's a broken vacuum line, the valve will not open no matter how new it is. The small hard plastic lines become brittle over time making them easier to break and more likely for them to be broken and causing the problem you are having. Without checking to see if the lines will hold a vacuum, you'll never know. You can check the EGR operation by momentarily hooking the EGR valve to direct manifold vacuum - it should pop open. You can also test by running new lines from the EVR to the EGR valve to bypass the plastic lines.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 03:41 PM
  #20  
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ran a new vaccum line from evr to egr and it change nothing at all
 
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 05:00 PM
  #21  
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Changed nothing as far as the trouble code, or what?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 05:24 PM
  #22  
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it didnt change anything at all
 
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 09:57 PM
  #23  
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What happens when you attach full manifold vacuum to the EGR valve?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 10:32 PM
  #24  
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From: south jersey
how exactly woould i do that cause im not sure.. truck seems like its gettin worse...its almost like its running out of gas but its not...it will back fire here and there and misses at low rpms.....it has a new fuel pump and lines so thats not an issue..and the only code is egr not opening
 
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Old Jul 28, 2008 | 04:49 AM
  #25  
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I haven't got a clue. Maybe it will eventually set another code or two.
 
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