46yblock-your radiator
So, I have on order a 24 in. stainless flexible hose from Summit. It is 1 3/4 diam. The pump inlet is 2 in. The hope is that there will be enough flex in the hose to turn it outward toward the fender, then down under the frame motor mounts, connect to a 1 3/4 in. inline hose drain, put a reducer on the 2 inch hose to water pump and connect it to the inline hose drain.
If this doesnt work I am in trouble.
The mounting of the rad to the frame came out great. It is a crossflow, so the bottom 2 inch channel has 3/4 inch thick Neoprene pads. After setting it in the frame resting on the pads, I had the brackets welded on and then drilled the holes. Then used contact cement to attach a thin piece of rubber to each of the bracket's backsides for a little more damping.
If the flex hose doesn;t get you a tight enough bend, I think petey shoes advice might work as well...I'd probably use a mandrell bend, or pop for a cast Al bend...but do it in 1 3/4 (pump size) and put the reducer on the rad size...this would keep the bottom hose "higher", even though the raduis would be larger...it'd still give more room than a reducer would between the pump and a 90*.
Now the other thing, Is that pump off a COE by any chance? I recall my Dad having a 312 engine sitting in his shop for a few years, but don't recall the waterpump oulet pointing straight down like yours.
Have you looked on the 48-60 forum for say someone with a 50's with a Y-block?
The water pump is an aluminum water pump, made so that its outside dimensions are exactly like the other Y pumps. The impeller design was changed though for higher output.
Semi-interestingly, the Hurst motor mount adaptors like shown were designed to fit 239 Y's, which had smaller water pump inlets, I believe 1 3/4. So the 292/312 pumps with their 2 in inlet have interference between the hose and mount. In the first pic you can see a relief I put into the front of the mount so the hose will go on.
Mike
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Another option is to have the bottom raditiator neck shortened and straightened (i/e no angle), which would allow you to relax the bend a bit...the neck appears to stick out about 3 inches? You;d really only need an inch-1.5 inches...just enough to get the hose over the "hump" and put a clamp on, sometimes just a bit helps a lot.
BTW...what's the difference in height between the bottom of the WP outlet to the top of the radiator pipe?
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Another option is to have the bottom raditiator neck shortened and straightened (i/e no angle), which would allow you to relax the bend a bit...the neck appears to stick out about 3 inches? You;d really only need an inch-1.5 inches...just enough to get the hose over the "hump" and put a clamp on, sometimes just a bit helps a lot.
BTW...what's the difference in height between the bottom of the WP outlet to the top of the radiator pipe?
The alum radiator I knew was going to be a challenge. So far I have bought two new rubber lower hoses and one stainless plus one inline drain, a new electric fan and pump driven fan. Kind of feel like being caught up in a situation where if you throw enough money at a problem it will finally be solved.
How about this for the plan on the fans? A 14 in. electric mounted to the front with brackets attached to the steel radiator frame. Idea here is to use the fan not only for cooling but also to deflect a few bugs and rocks protecting the core. Also use a pump driven fan, one of the ultra light weight synthetic types, as an assist. No shroud.
try and post two pics in this post.Nope, could only get this one. This routing actually will work. Cant say I like it a lot, but it works. Another routing takes the flexible hose over and down through the opening closer to the outlet. The potential problem is that it rubs the frame at two points. If there is room to get a couple cushions in there and if everything clears the damper to water pump pulley drive belt, the nonpictured routing would look better. The stainless hose also would have to be cut to length on the second option.
But from that pic...just curious...if the outlet was angled the opposite way, could the hose go down where you have those electrical wires running, then turn up to the pump?
But from that pic...just curious...if the outlet was angled the opposite way, could the hose go down where you have those electrical wires running, then turn up to the pump?

I am going to spend a little more time on this, but worst case would be the ugly routing, get it back on the road and take it to my fantastic mechanic (retired), who can do anything it seems. Also may take the radiator some place and inquire about changing the outlet. That would solve most everything.
Mike, Mike and Petey thanks for your help!
Mike




