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OK, I moved the rad and frame to the front position. There is lots of room between the motor and cooler! Tried three different combos and think one will work. It is better than anything so far.
A 1 3/4 sleeve attaches to the rad outlet and inline hose drain. Other end of hose drain goes to a 2 inch short piece of L hose with 1 3/4 bushing, and then to the pump. There still is some buckle in the 2 inch piece, but the setup is much better visually and functionally than the crummy stainless corrugated hose, which has an ID of only 1 5/16.
Finally I can go on to final motor and tranny install.
Will the 6 cylinder position of the radiator cause any problems when sheet metal installation comes along?
There is a pic of the mounted radiator with front elec. fan in my gallery. Tried to get it on this post but couldnt. Mounting of the fan was simple but time consuming. Two pieces of 1 1/2 in. aluminum L are snugged to the front of the radiator frame cage nuts. Then the lateral brackets from fan go to the L. I didnt have stock so cut it out of an F-100 fan.
The weight of rad., frame, horn, and fan is now 29 lbs. Stock rad, frame, horn, fan was an even 50 lbs.
The only thing left is instal of the catch can.
I rough fitted the inner fender and the piece that holds the hood latch. In the forward 6 cyl. position, the radiator goes under that piece. Good and bad, because the rad width is a bit too much. The hood latch cowl or whatever you call it, must have been shorter in the 6 cylinder trucks. I can either cut it down, or fab a bump out on each side. A man here in town did the bumpout with his 46 which has what looks like a Mustang radiator.
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