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The stock gaskets are best. Best price for the studs I think is at northernautoparts.com. For the EGR delete you don't really need to buy a kit, just do a search on the forum here for some how-to and discussion articles. I would just remove the scoop from the passenger side up-pipe and weld it closed, then I'd remove and bypass the EGR cooler and block off the port into the intake. With an '06 I think you'll need tuning to keep a check engine light from coming on though.
You have to be careful what type of welder you use, the up-pipe metals are sensitive and can get punctured very easy if not careful. I would actually recommend having an exhaust shop do the work. Also you don't need to have a tuner to disable the check engine light on an 06 for egr(or let's say I didn't need to have tuning to turn off the CEL).
i had bed plate work done in va. and they lifted the cab.
i had blown head gaskets replaced in id. and they pulled the eng. out the front.
the diesel tech. said he did one head gasket job w/o pulling eng. and it was just to hard of a job.
Wow. I had both of these operations done and the engine has never been out and the cab never lifted. Both times they said the job was much easier this way. Each shop, I guess, develops their own methods.
Wow. I had both of these operations done and the engine has never been out and the cab never lifted. Both times they said the job was much easier this way. Each shop, I guess, develops their own methods.
I know Bean(who did my headstuds) likes to remove the cab. The ford diesel tech. likes to remove the engine as he doesn't like having the cab over his head, however, he tells me that ford wants them to do the work(if your using all oem parts) by keeping everything on and in. I personally can't see how keeping the engine in and cab on would be easier but I am not a certified mechanic and definately not a diesel tech, unless you did it enough to have a system worked out that makes it more efficient for you to do so, but for the average joe blow trying to do it to his own truck to cut costs, I don't see how it would be easier.
but for the average joe blow trying to do it to his own truck to cut costs, I don't see how it would be easier.
I'm an "average joe" , and I did my headstuds for myself. I did it with cab on / motor in. The reason, because I couldn't figure out how I'm going to lift my cab on my driveway without a big lift or forklift. I didn't pull my motor because I looked at the components I have to remove before I even get to the motor, and I decided that's harder for me, than work myself in from the top...
I'm an "average joe" , and I did my headstuds for myself. I did it with cab on / motor in. The reason, because I couldn't figure out how I'm going to lift my cab on my driveway without a big lift or forklift. I didn't pull my motor because I looked at the components I have to remove before I even get to the motor, and I decided that's harder for me, than work myself in from the top...
Well sure, lacking the proper equipment does make for a harder job that is true, but if you were able to pull the cab, I bet it would have been a lot easier then leaving everything intact. I know if I did it all on and in, I would be worried if I was able to torque them all done right, that everything was in there good and sealed just right. Leaving all that stuff on there just seems like alot could go wrong for the extra effort that you have to put forth with leaving everything in. Now I'm not saying that you didn't get the job done right the first time, but you have alot more chances for error then doing it with the cab off especially. Like everything though, this is just my opinion.
I thought I was told you couldnt get the heads back on over the studs with out doing on or the other.(pullin cab or motor) What is the average cost of hiring it done? I dont really want to do that as I prefer to do stuff myself, but since I dont have a lift to lift the cab maybe that is what I should do.
they say that if you install the studs in the head before you put them on you can do it. you have to put the studs in then use something like a zip tie or something to hold the studs up out of the head a little bit so they aren't hanging out the bottom. then once you get the head in place on the block you cut the zip ties allowing them to drop into the threads in the block.
they say that if you install the studs in the head before you put them on you can do it. you have to put the studs in then use something like a zip tie or something to hold the studs up out of the head a little bit so they aren't hanging out the bottom. then once you get the head in place on the block you cut the zip ties allowing them to drop into the threads in the block.
I might have to look at maybe trying it without pulling the motor.
Pay attention what you doing, don't rush it, and be careful. You'll be able to do it. Do the EGR delete too, it's worth it for future goods, ang when you pull your intake, cut the loop out at the back of it. When you see it, you'll know, what I'm talking about, believe me, it's another good thing not to have when you put it together...
i don't believe anyone has documented how to do the studs without pulling the motor. it is more or less just wing it until someone comes along with the time to be able to do so.
I looked around but didn't find anything. Does anyone have a detailed explanantion or instructions on the process to do the head studs?
In the post #11 I explained how I did mine, and you also can find the powerstroke workshop manual under the Tech folder, so you'll know the steps, and specs.
In the post #11 I explained how I did mine, and you also can find the powerstroke workshop manual under the Tech folder, so you'll know the steps, and specs.
Great info!
But why did you do the headers? Any reason in particular?
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