Please Help! The other day out of nowhere my ex decided it didn’t want to start. The engine turned over fine so I cranked it for a few minutes hoping it would magically resolve itself but instead all I accomplished was draining the batteries. So, I put the batteries on chargers and let it charge for a couple hours before revisiting the problem. This time before starting I checked the fuel pump, I emptied the fuel water separator, checked the fuel filter and checked the air filter\intake before cranking. With my newly charged batteries still connected to the chargers I tried cranking again. This time it gave me a hard time but after about a minute of cranking it finally started up. No warning lights, no problems, I drove it around the block a few times and everything seemed perfectly fine. I got home turned it off and tried starting it again just to be sure... wouldn’t start again. I cranked a few minutes once again until it was clear I was just draining the batteries so back on the charger they went. In the afternoon started it again after a few minutes of cranking while connected to the charger and once running it drove it for nearly an hour without any problems but once again after I turned it off I was out of luck restarting. I should mention that the batteries are both less than 18 months old and don’t seem to have a problem holding sufficient charge if the motor wasn’t taking forever to actually start. I’m in FL and the temperature was in the 90s so glow plugs, fuel heaters, etc shouldn’t be a problem. I’ve called a few friends who are mechanics and one said it could be the crank sensor (he said there may actually be a recall on it) but when I look it up it says it will cause the engine to stall which mine is not doing. That’s my problem, everything I find would cause problems with it running or at least give a warning light but once started it runs fine with no lights. I can’t afford to just take it somewhere so I really need some help…please -xtraveler Oh, I guess I should mention 2001 ex w/7.3 2wd

 

Thanks for the good description. The first think I would ask is how old is your engine oil, and is it full? Next, do all of your dash lights function normally? Any of them staying on longer than they should?

For a quick check, why don't you try unplugging your ICP sensor and see if the truck starts like it should. This is at least a free check that won't cost you anything. Putting it on a scanner would tell you for sure, but let's see what we can come up with before you start spending any money.

The ICP sensor is a round sensor on the front, inboard side of the drivers head. There's an electrical plug on the end of the sensor. Unplug this, look to see if the plug is contaminated with oil, then leaving it unplugged try to start.

 

It wouldn't be a bad thing to bring it to the dealer and let them put another CPS on the truck. It is a recall, so it don't cost nothing.

I would do what Chris said.

 

I am going to bet you still have the original batteries. The engines needs strong batteries to start. Just because it turns over good, doesn't mean it is going to start good. Have someone help you check the cranking voltage at the batteries. Should stay over 10.5, more is better. If it is dropping below that, it's not going to start. Check all your connection and battery post for corrosion.
Follow the advise above and check those batteries and report back.

 

Thanks Chris, I've done what you recommended. Yes, the plug did appear to have oil in it. No, unplugging it did not help it start any better. To answer your questions, I'm overdue to change the oil now and its a little low as my drain plug always seems to come loose and drip leaving me a little low when its time to change. Would you please help me understand what this means.

Rick, thanks as well, does that mean you can confirm that there is a recall on it?

Barry, thanks but I went through that problem last year and replaced both batteries. Also, even with both batteries right off the charger and hooked up to a booster it takes it a minute of cranking to start.

xtraveler

 

Oil in the ICP connector is sometimes a sign of a bad sensor, but unplugging the sensor makes the computer assume a default reading which should allow the truck to start. We'll cross this one off the list. How old is the oil, and how low is it on the dipstick?

The motor uses engine oil to fire the fuel injectors, so clean full oil is vital to these motors. I'd recommend changing the oil ASAP just to rule that out. Also, since extended cranking can kill batteries (even when they're fairly new), if you have a multi-meter, check the voltage on each battery while someone cranks the truck. As mentioned, if the computer doesn't see 10.5 volts while cranking it won't start.

You could check for a loose nut on the back of the IPR just to make sure that's not giving you trouble. Sorry, but I don't have a picture of that handy. Maybe someone else has one available.

 

The fact that a charger is what it needs to start makes me think you have at least one bad battery ...To be sure ,,get it on a scanner & watch ICP & IPRDC% at no start ...Change the oil first though.....If you have an internal HP oil leak ,,it may take more cranking power than you have on hand to get to the required pressure to start ,,,

May be a starter issue also...over time its hard to notice them spinning slower than new....

One other thing ..before trying to start it ,,look at the level of the oil in the resevoir , needs to be almost to the top(1/2 inch or so)....

 

Here's a picture.


But, if the booster makes it easier to start, then it sounds as if you have some power issues. Maybe something as simple as corroded connections. New batteries are only as good as the alternator. If it is weak, it will kill the best of batteries.

 

I skipped that one Rick because I don't recall hearing of one drain down that quick. If he can turn the truck off, then have problems trying to restart it right away. Have you heard of this before? What could cause a drain down that quick that wouldn't have any affect while he's driving around?

 

You are certainly right about that ,,,(instant drainback ) My bad...I was thinking about hot oil ,,bad injector o rings ,...,(but they would have to be really bad ),Maybe IPR......I think he may have a HP oil leak in the system somewhere ....

Just throwing some crap out there to see if anything sticks....

 

Ok, I changed the oil and filter but the problem remains. I blew the fuse in my multimeter checking relays last time my ex died, I'll get a new fuse and check draw on the batteries this afternoon but I'll feel really stupid if this is another battery problem (not only are the batteries less than 18mths old but they seem to hold a charge find unless I'm cranking). I'm not sure where to find the IPR nuts but I'm working on that. Anyhow, I'll let you know as soon as I complete the steps you've advised but I wanted to say thanks for everyones help. xtraveler

 

Sorry it took this long to get back to you. Yes many people here had the recall done. I did too. No charge. Good luck.

 

Here's a pic of the HPOP and IPR solenoid nut. The HPOP is below the fuel bowl. Check to make sure the nut is snug. It's a cheap pressed metal nut and if overtightened it will strip. Probably designed that way so solenoid is not over torqued.

 

Disconnect the batteries from each other and test them seperatly. 18 months is not a new battery. Heat kills them quick. And like everything else, they aint made like they used to be....

 

Wow everyone here is awesome! New discovery, there is no IPR solenoid nut. There is a another piece, looks kind of like a copper hat thats open at both ends, its just sitting on there but since there is no nut the piece slides right off. What is this, what does it do, can this be my problem, and can I replace it with any nut or does it have to be something special???? Please advise, thanks again for everything! xtraveler