Agreed!!!

Just swap trucks and be done with it. You both will be better off.

 

I also think this is the best course of action.

 

Well I think on being how he allready has the running 390 in the truck..and his buds 460 is torn down or needs a rebuild...He should just hit the bone yards and Buy a late 60's model or a late 70's model 460 out of a car..and start his build with that..JMO..

That way his truck isnt down and he can take his time building a 460 that he wants..

 

That doesnt sound bad Russ, I don't think I wanna switch trucks with him. I have a '73 Explorer with a rareish paint job. His is a Ranger Lariat or something and the body isn't to great. Niether is mine but his doors have some cancer from some idiot putting asbestos insulation in them (according to the last owner). The 460 is ready to be put back together. The Prev. Owner tore it down for some reason, but lost interest. I like my truck and have already spilled blood (literaly), sweat, and tears into it so theres an attachment. But he would need my exhaust I dont nessisarily need his b/c I don't wanna do much past the headers when either motor is done. I failed to metion but keep in mind that the 390 I'm running is not the origional motor. It had a 360 in it origionaly and the Prev Owner of my truck let a wrist pin come out of a piston and tore the block up for about 3k mi so I aquired a 390 for $100 and dropped it in.

I still am not sure what to do.

 

Well josh the only thing I can tell you is...you have a running Truck right now? Yes? and you like your Truck better that his... So to me its a simple answer of ..How much monet do you want to thro into a 390? which can be a Great motor...Or for the same amount of cash put it into a 460 based build ?

Jay Brown just did an Article for wither CC or hotrod I dont remember which...and it was a 500hp 390 give or take a few hp...for $5000 ....But I have heard thru the grapvine that the heads werent stock by far...and other building tricks were done....i think you can still buy the July Rag in some places...

But with that said !! I'll probably **** off some of my FE Brotheren here.... But It wont be the last time either... But my point is "IF" you have deep pockets you can Make an FE rock and roll...and when I mean rock and roll I'am talking about Scouder build or FFR428's build.... Polcat has a nice iron headed FE build... i think falconstang built a good FE and a few others....

But you can take a 460 "Engine" for correctness !! LOL...and get 500hp out of it in a heart beat...and plenty of Torque to boot!! All they parts at that level are much cheaper than the 390/428..Its just that simple..... Just do some reasearch on what you would like to do with a 390 and then look up the same parts for a 460..and you'll see the difference!!

As the Old saying goes ...there's know replacement for displacement !! Why do you think alot of FE builders want to go Stroker if they can afford it! And as far as swappng in parts.... "IF you can use a Drill motor and a measuring tape... and dont mind spending a few bucks on L&L headers and there swap kit....and Buy and engine with the C6 intacted...your almost there....

Now I dont know how much experience in the Machanics world.....But it can be a weekend job with 4 hands... JMO... i hope it all works out for you!! BTW go into the 460 room on this site and Asked Monsterbaby !! Tell him RapidRuss sent ya!! He has a Stroker 460 in a Ranger !!

good Luck! And keep us posted!

 

[quote=RapidRuss;6381589]He has a Stroker 460 in a Ranger !!

quote]

Like a lil' ranger or an older one?

 

Like as in a 88 gen1 ranger.


I agree with this with the exception of pick up a later model 460 (79-86 carb model) being external balanced it's easier to be a flywheel to work if you want to use a clutch and IF you decide you just want an all out performance engine and go stroker the D9TE blocks are better for running stroker kits in as the Cyl are 3/16" longer. And all the stroker kits and cranks made now are made to work in the late model block.
The ONLY advantage to the early model engines is smaller combustion chambers and higher compression giving better stock power and a straight up timing set neither of which is an advantage if your are rebuilding it anyway. You can just make a proper pistons selection for the later model heads to get the same compression and it's actually a LOT easier to keep a D3VE headed motor in Pump gas range then it is to find pistons that work good to keep the early heads under 10:1 compression. And the later model heads flow every bit as good.
So my vote would be to keep your truck since it's currently running, pickup a junk yard 460 and build it as you have time and money and then swap it in when YOU are ready and it's all built right and the way YOU want it to be not the way someone else thought was good.

 

hey Rob,

I thought the 72 prior blocks had a 10.300" deck on them....and the later blocks were 10.322" from what I remember? I'am trying to jog to many FE and 385 series "MOTORS" in me head here!! LOL...

Well Only have a few more payments and the A460 is all mine!!! Now I have just got to look for a good set of Kaase heads at the swap meet!! Yeah right!!! LOL..

LOL.. I thought you would have been out to the BBF Bash this weekend? Monsterbaby have the hicups or someting?? you do know street slicks will work on her?? LOL

Russ

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

hello big block users, question for you all??
i have a 69 f 100 360 v8 2 barrell with hedman headers had problems with timing but changed dist and everything is okay, now i seems like the exhaust valve is sticking on right side any good ideas how to keep from sticking on very low budget with this truck
thanks ronnie............

 

Hey,

Welcome to FTE we'd be glad to help, but you would get alot more help if you started a thread about this in the FE Forum!

-Josh

 

Why do you think its sticking? Back fire out the exhaust?? If so could be a burn exhaust valve or a brokem or weak spring??

But I we dont know enough about it to really say? just a stab in the dark!!

 

Yes the early blocks were 10.300, which is another reason I suggest buying the late model blocks, you can easily deck the blocks .022 to get the late model blocks to the 10.300 for one and having that extra .022 of deck height gives you that much more room to get the block true and straight before you start having pistons sticking out of the block this is extra important with strokers where your have pistons that are sitting right at zero deck with a 10.300 block. The decks on these blocks are plenty thick enough to take them even further if you so choose unlike a BBC block that has the head bolts directly into the deck surface the BBF for doesn't have that stress so it's ok to take them down quite a bit.

I already have a A460 block sitting in the shop, and a set of Oliver Billet rods on the shelf, and a forged 4.5" crank waiting. just waiting for Jon to price his new heads and rockers etc.

Just really couldn't afford the time to make the Bash this year, I went to the winter Tech deal down in Owenboro in Dec though and had a blast, but spent too much on the Galaxie so kinda broke. And monsterbaby is a little hard on slicks LOL

 

A little hard on slicks ? Yeah think Rob !!! LMAO!!

Yeah that was my plan also was the 4.500" bore and the big crank too.. I was gonna go with Jons P-51 heads...But after seeing the new heads I was in love!! Of course the cast will be the deciding factor on them...But I know a bunch of guys selling off all the rest of there heads and are standing inline to get the new set..

Those are going to make one Kick Azz Build for sure.... The last I heard was the final machining was being done on the first sets to be shipped (when) ? Them Chevy boys better watch out now!! LOL..

 

Hey Russ,
Whats that a pic of in your avatar?