Rear Spring Hangers Help!
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 27
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From: Asheville, NC
Rear Spring Hangers Help!
I am in the process of changing the rear spring hangers on my 1995 4.9 F-150 4x4. I can not get the bolts out of the spring and hangers so I cut the hangers off and removed the spring. I've soaked the bolts with wd for 2 days with no luck. the bushing is rubber in the spring so I can't heat. What should I do? This is a great forum with a lot of info. Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Use a garden hose and run water over the spring loop with the bushing in it to keep it cool while you heat the nut.
Make sure you do not direct heat toward the spring/bushing area when you do it. Cut the nut/bolt end off if you have to, working from the bolt end melting it away as you go blowing it away until the nut is gone. It won't get that hot that way and should prove to help free the bolt inside the sleeve itself once you have it cut off.
Use a PFH and a good sized punch to knock the remainder of the bolt out. Turning the bolt will likely just spin the sleeve in the bushing.
If you have to use the torch to blow the bolt head off (again use water to cool it) so you can use a socket or something solid against the sleeve to knock the remainder of the bolt out into. Pounding against the "rubber" is futile.
Once you get it to move a little it should go easier the rest of the way out.
Make sure you do not direct heat toward the spring/bushing area when you do it. Cut the nut/bolt end off if you have to, working from the bolt end melting it away as you go blowing it away until the nut is gone. It won't get that hot that way and should prove to help free the bolt inside the sleeve itself once you have it cut off.
Use a PFH and a good sized punch to knock the remainder of the bolt out. Turning the bolt will likely just spin the sleeve in the bushing.
If you have to use the torch to blow the bolt head off (again use water to cool it) so you can use a socket or something solid against the sleeve to knock the remainder of the bolt out into. Pounding against the "rubber" is futile.
Once you get it to move a little it should go easier the rest of the way out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 8
From: Baltimore
It's not worth the effort trying to save the bushings.
You can drill a bunch of holes in the rubber bushing then use a sawzall and cut the rubber bushing out. Or use a propane torch and burn the bushing out.
Purchase some poly bushings. Make sure you lube them good or they will squeak. Note: Some poly bushings use the old bushing sleeve.
You should be able to get everything you need from Jeff's Bronco Grave Yard.
Note. 4x4's used 3 inch wide rear leaf springs and 2x4's used 2.5 inch rear leafs.
Click on the linik below.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco?search=shackle
You can drill a bunch of holes in the rubber bushing then use a sawzall and cut the rubber bushing out. Or use a propane torch and burn the bushing out.
Purchase some poly bushings. Make sure you lube them good or they will squeak. Note: Some poly bushings use the old bushing sleeve.
You should be able to get everything you need from Jeff's Bronco Grave Yard.
Note. 4x4's used 3 inch wide rear leaf springs and 2x4's used 2.5 inch rear leafs.
Click on the linik below.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco?search=shackle
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 679
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver B.C.
when I did my truck I got about 1/2 of the bolts out using heat, breaker bar and a BFH and had to burn the bushings out of the rest...hope you like the smell of burning rubber, lol. most autoparts stores should be able to find you a bushing kit...mine didn't include the bolts though.
good luck
good luck
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
I'm about to do this myself now that my hangers arrived this past Saturday.
Looking at the rust, diseased rubber, and overall twisted nature of my broken hangers, I'll probably be using the "flame wrench" and replacing the bushings. A quick call to Napa and sure enough, they have them in stock.
Now if my jackstands only reached the bottom of the rear of the frame, this job wouldn't be too bad... but that's another story.
Looking at the rust, diseased rubber, and overall twisted nature of my broken hangers, I'll probably be using the "flame wrench" and replacing the bushings. A quick call to Napa and sure enough, they have them in stock.
Now if my jackstands only reached the bottom of the rear of the frame, this job wouldn't be too bad... but that's another story.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 27
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From: Asheville, NC
Bushings
I have a question about the bushings from Bronco grave yard? The OEM bushings have a outside metal sleeve with a rubber center with a sleeve in the center for the bolt. The ones from Bronco Grave Yard have poly instead of rubber with a steel sleeve in the center, (no outside metal sleeve) , and lips on the sides of the poly. To install I could drill out the rubber from the old bushing and leave the old outside sleeve in the spring. Here's the question. Can the inside sleeve in the new poly bushing be removed so i can insert the new poly bushing into the old outside sleeve, then insert the new inside bolt sleeve?
Thanks
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 8
From: Baltimore
It depends on the manufacturer whether they reuse the old outer and inner sleeve.
I purchased poly bushings from Bronco Grave Yard and the web-site showed Daystar bushings but they shipped Energy Suspension?
Energy Suspension has an excellent web-site and tech. support. Once you locate the proper part number you can look at the foot notes which tell you if the old sleeves are used. There are also instructions in the box.
If new inner sleeves are provided, they are a slip fit. No press needed.
Click on the link below
Welcome to Energy Suspension!
I purchased poly bushings from Bronco Grave Yard and the web-site showed Daystar bushings but they shipped Energy Suspension?
Energy Suspension has an excellent web-site and tech. support. Once you locate the proper part number you can look at the foot notes which tell you if the old sleeves are used. There are also instructions in the box.
If new inner sleeves are provided, they are a slip fit. No press needed.
Click on the link below
Welcome to Energy Suspension!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Yea I agree, don't spend a lot of time trying to save them. Just not worth it, however try first. They tend to be better then the replacements if they are in good shape and not all tore up from the hanger and or shackle problems.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
Saving them depends on your view of things.
Since this job is a complete pain in the ****, and the OEM rubber bushings are as old as the hangers that rotted away, I'd rather replace them and not have to take those bolts out again for another 15 years.
Because you know Murphy's Law... you'll reuse the original bushings, and six months down the road they'll split like a banana giving you a nice thumpity-thumpity sound until you tear it apart. Again.
Since this job is a complete pain in the ****, and the OEM rubber bushings are as old as the hangers that rotted away, I'd rather replace them and not have to take those bolts out again for another 15 years.
Because you know Murphy's Law... you'll reuse the original bushings, and six months down the road they'll split like a banana giving you a nice thumpity-thumpity sound until you tear it apart. Again.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 8
From: Baltimore
Here's the instructions in PDF format for Energy Suspension.
http://www.energysuspension.com/pdf_instruc/17040.PDF
http://www.energysuspension.com/pdf_instruc/17040.PDF
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,512
Likes: 8
From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
I am in the process of changing the rear spring hangers on my 1995 4.9 F-150 4x4. I can not get the bolts out of the spring and hangers so I cut the hangers off and removed the spring. I've soaked the bolts with wd for 2 days with no luck. the bushing is rubber in the spring so I can't heat. What should I do? This is a great forum with a lot of info. Thanks.
Then use a simple puller/installer to push out the center. now use a sawzall with a bi-metal blade to etch the outside steel cover of the spring bushing which trsut me, is still in there, once etched, use a sharp chisel and git her out. then sand the inside of the spring eye and use a ball joint installer to push in the new bushing.
use anti seize, not grease on the spring bolts when you re-install.
while you are at it, if the rear hangers went, im betting the #7 rear crossmember is also pretty bad and the ends of the rails where the bumper mounts is getting thin. I take steel plate and make L-shaped plates to go on the outside and inside of the frame and include the bumper bolts and the hanger and any hitch.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Asheville, NC
Thanks for the help. I've got the bushings on order from BroncoGraveyard. The frame does not look like it has lost a lot of metal, although there is much rust. I am going to clean it up check it and paint with rustolem. I was thinking of beefing it up anyways. I am also installing a Curt class III hitch an that should strenghen a bit. I was cleaning up the gas tank (rust) and found 2 small pin holes. I've got one coming from LMC.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 1
From: St Louis
I got lucky on the frame part when I replaced the worn springs on my bronco. I took the Tires off both sides then extended the jackstands out and used the rear reciever hitch to place the stands. I only had to jack on the most unfavorable spot of right on the pumpkin, but still havent had issues with the rear end. I used a combination of the flame wrench and the sawzall to get the bolts off. Just be sure to use a good quality bi-metal blade in the sawzall else you will just wear out the sawzall blade faster than you cut the bolt.
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