been having some starting problem. its not the typical click and no starter crank. the start actually cranks. when i turn the key, the starter spins but its not catching against the flywheel - makes the whirring sound like the motor is spinning freely without a load. but a 2nd attempt the starter will usually catch the engine and start it.

what gives? i've always thought the starter's pinion is always engaged against the flywheel's teeth? so why would the starter spin freely the 1st try, and then catch the flywheel on the 2nd? its becoming more and more consistent now. :S requiring 2 tries to start.

 

Aerovan-Think of the starter as a simple cylinder. Now your bendix as a spring actuated (FLOATING-back and forth) shaft.
It is a metal mass with a bendix-the bendix is spring actuated. When you hit the key the bendix is forced forward I'd guess about 2 inches. It makes contact with the flight wheel (ONLY TEMPORARILY-NOT PERMANENT AS YOU SUGGEST) Once the small diameter gear engages the flywheel it is just enough to assist the engine when it fires and the when its job is done it goes back (RETRACTS) inside the woven cylindrical wire bundle until needed again.
2 things could be happening. The starter is wearing out-no connection; the first go at it then like you said it connects/makes contact the second time.

What happened to me lately even though I feel pretty knowledgeable about matters is that I just put up with hitting my key twice like you had done, but guess what my problem was?
The bolts that hold the starter to the block had worked loose and the starter migrated out of the cavity entirely. What then happened was that the starter was doing everything it could for me and was verily engaging the flywheel.
I recommend you take a look underneath and see if this is happening to you. If so the teeth/gear on the starter and the teeth on the flywheel are becoming damaged.
Hope I've helped. I simply remove the bolts and replaced with some added lock washers.

 

whoh! the starter backed out of the bellhousing?!

i have to check that out for sure. as for the starter, i was under the impression that the starter gear is constantly in contact with the flywheel. i guess it is not. so there's a arm that pushes the gear / clutch to engage the flywheel and start the engine?

 

NO-that would wear out the small gear. It is only forced forward during the starting sequence and then retracts back. If you even hear of someone ever telling you that their starter burnt up-well that is because the starter for the most part "gave up the ghost" and didn't retract back and the bearing/spring assembly wore out allowing its bendix to wear out.

 

There is a small contact under the fork magnet. When starter drive (bendix) is not engaged fully to ring gear circuit is closed and motod does not turns, but if contacts are bad (burned, dirty, corrozed) starter may turn w/o drive gear engaging ring gear. To be sure unscrew 5mm bolt with phillips screw driver and look does something move there... may be really bendix is not engaged.... if it engages fully but does not crank replace it. Be sure ring gear is ok too!

 

replaced the starter. just wondering if the 3.0 needs shimming of the starter?

its pretty easy to replace the starter on the 3.0, disconnect neg on batt, 1 wire, 3 bolts, starter comes right out. put back in rev order. less than an hr's job.

 

Shimming is ONLY needed if you have a noise (metal rubbing) no noise-no shim

 

Newer used shimmings... Newer had rubbing....

 

Inside your starter you have a small armature that pushes back when you give it the electric signal by turning the key. It them engages with the teeth on your fly wheel to rotate the flywheel which in turn starts to rotate your engine. You are starting to get combustion at this time to actually drive the car. Mr. starter says "my job is done-thank you Mr. cylinders for taking over my job!" With that the armature retracts back inside the starter and your on your way.

It the armature doesn't retract all of the way-personally I choose not to mess with fate and just buy another starter, If it is "HANGING" up and making a noise-DON'T get shims-buy a new starter unless you drive by a auto parts store every hundred feet or just like to walk.--Boz

 

ClickyAutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year

'93 & later with planetary gear reduction

 

Sounds funny... I imagined DDEC-V ore Mercedes PLD unit strategis description in this style.....

Ore EBS strategy.... Mr. Pedal position sensor says it is time to pull over with 5 mss, Mr. Axe load sensors says I have 12ton load, Mr. Controll Unit oreders Mr. Axe modulator to increas brake pressure to 3 bar and asks wheels speed sensors are wheels locked... may be to use ABS....?

 

this starter looks like my taurus 3.8 starter and Ranger 4.0... Had never seen this one in aerostar with 3.0. Ouh yeah, there is small workshop in Lugansk, they update Bosh planetary gear starters for any car/truck... 1" 9 teeth drive gear is ruther popular in europe....

 

Speaking of weird starter noises, the one on my old Mustang started to act weird. When I engage the key, it would sometimes spin without engaging the flywheel. Since this starter has been sitting for nearly 20 years, I wonder if it's gotten stiff, and if I can refresh it by taking it apart and cleaning and lubing everything.

 

i have replaced the starter with a reman. just wondering if shimming was required. since its not required. bonus!

thanks guys!