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So I'm removing my e4od here in 2 weeks, and I convinced 2 friends to help... Thing is, we don't have an overhead lift or trans jack... Any suggestions on how to remove this thing without killing anybody (or maiming, for that matter) or breaking anything? We have plenty of floor jacks, cinder blocks, whatever...
Just go buy a transmission floor jack for $99 from Harbor Freight. Even with three people it is tough, not because of weight, because of the limited space and angles. The cheap $50 jack is only suitable for light duty transmission in Rangers (A4LD), Cherokees (AX-15), etc.
You might need two people to wiggle it back in though.
you could buy one,or they rent them around here for $10 an hour if you don't want to buy. Just make sure you have everything disconnected except maybe a couple mounting bolts before you get the jack,then you will only have to rent it for a couple hours. I have done this with engine hoists before.
If you have fabrication and welding skills, you can make a plate that mounts in the top of your floor jack. By no means ideal, but it does work ok, and safer than trying to bench press it in/out. I have several different plates made up for different uses, been using them for many years... they just make the jack pad wider, and you can make it to where you chain the trans on so it can't slide off.
Just bought the harbor freight one, didn't think they would be that cheap. I was considering welding some square tube in a rectangle between two floor jacks, but for the price of the jack, its not really worth it... And it avoids problems I see with fabbing a tool like that, such as death.
Not like this is going to be the last transmission I blow out either...
we have always, just balanced the tranny on 2 or 3 ton floor jacks...
[when using the 2 ton jacks, you have to use a block of wood, so we would take a 4x4, cut 2 2 foot sections out of it, and then in the middle of both of them, cut 2 inches out of the to 4 inches wide..... [you should be able to lay a 2x4 flat in it] take the 2 "dado" cuts, andput them together to it now looks like this + then take 2x4s and make a box around it.... and 2 of those will get it in.....
I just helped a friend swap a ZF tranny in a 93 F250...really wasn't all that bad...but make sure you remove the access panel from INSIDE the cab BEFORE you try to yank that think out. (Assuming it's a manual...)
Other than a few choice words and changing religions once or twice, we managed to swap it out without too many difficulties.
Its a 94 f250HD, 4x4, e4od. And I'm doing everything possible to prevent it from blowing up again, including billet converter, another aux cooler with electric fan and thermostat switch relay, trans temp sensor with digital gauge and pod, and shift kit. Like $850 worth of parts, but if it means the thing never has any more problems, its worth it.
The manual trannys I've done with just 2 guys laying on the floor but the auto's are much more heavy. I highly reccommend buying a trans jack - I would.
> another aux cooler with electric fan and thermostat switch relay
imho, on the newer EOD type transmissions, you are better of by passing the stock radiator transmission cooler entirely and just using a 25K GVW cooler (with fan) hooked directly to the transmission.
If your engine is hot or overheats, it will do the same to the tranny fluid. I think this is one of the main reasons the Dodges go through transmissions every 60k.
I like making custom lines if I have to instead of using hose. I only use transmission hose to go between the cooler and transmission lines where I can easily see a leak. I double flare the lines, though you can buy nice barbed -AN fittings too.
The cooler that I ordered has a fan with a thermostat (thermostat is separate, but whatever.) The current cooler is an aux cooler about the size of a brick. This thing just doesn't get enough air flow when going slowly, bit I don't think it would hurt to have it hooked up in line for a little extra cooling...
I remember installing a transmission with nothing but a bottle jack and a few pieces of wood. I also installed a short block in my '72 Blazer without a hoist by rolling it over the bumper and through the empty core support. I wouldn't recommend either method, but where there is a will (and a lack of money and/or common sense) there is a way.
You'll find the jack well worth the price when you re-install the tranny. Taking it out is the easy part. Getting everything mated up just so-so on re-installation is where the adjustable angles on the jack reward you.
a very good tip:
do the trans and transfer case as 2 separate items. it will make life much easier.
pull the t-case, then the trans. when putting it back together, put the trans in, then put the t-case on the trans.
it is very difficult to keep the trans/t-case in the proper position and balanced on the jack when they are together