I am new to the forums here and am hoping this is the right place to air my booboo.

Situation:

I was installing the finishing piece in a Directed Electronics (DEI) remote start kit, which happened to be the box that holds the key in it and had a small antenna around the PATS ring at the key.

Problem point:

I got the module installed and the vehicle started under a test start with the remote start, then started with the key just fine. I went inside for a minute and came back out ready to show off my completion and the vehicle failed to start.

Diagnosis (to the best of my ability):

The THEFT light in the dash blinks a fast blink that is even faster than the no key flash. I talked to a former Ford Garage shop manager and he told me about resetting the system by unhooking the battery for 15+ minutes and then inserting the key when I reconnect the battery so that the diagnostic circuits will read the key and hopefully reset the system so I can restart it.

That did not work, unfortunately. I contacted the Ford dealer and had them order the transciever ring to replace the one in the steering column to see if that would work and I wont be able to find out until tomorrow. Bad news is that if I cant tow it home using a tow dolly, I have to pay a wrecker $350 to haul it 120 miles to the house.

Solution:

SOMEONE GIVE ME A HINT OR SOME KIND OF MIRACLE CURE FOR THIS, PLEASE?!??!?

 

If you tow it to a Ford dealer, I don't see why they can't take a NGS (scanner) and reprogram that one key again to your vehicle.

That being said, I think the DEI is interfering with the PATS. I would remove the ant. of the DEI and disable the power (removing power might not be enough by itself) and see if the vehicle can be started back up with the procedure your friend mentioned.

I think the PATS system is reading the DEI device as being the wrong key. You might try not having your cell phone on you too.

Been a few years since I did a Windstar, but, I am pretty sure the procedure of programming a new key through the ignition involves pressing the mirror switch paddle. A current tech would have to chime in with that.

 

I have tried everything except the mirror paddle thing.

I completely removed the entire antenna from the steering area and even unplugged it from the module and removed the power from the module also.

I am about to head out to get antenna module to see if it will work, and if it doesn't I am going to have to goto a ford dealer to get it lined out.

Have a good day and talk to you all in a while.

 

The first thing that the Ford tech will do is to remove the DEI system in order remove any interference to the underlying Ford system.

You can do that yourself and is suggested as your first step in restoring system operation.

I've never seen any instructions about the mirror paddle in conjunction with the PATS system programming...

Steve

 

I already removed the DEI system and the computer has shown as non-communicational to both the dealers computer unit, and a unit from Oreilly's.

That means its either dead inside the computer or some power wire has bit the dust. Since I did not smell any burning wire, I am guessing the computer itself. The only other thing I can think of is the ignition switch itself under the steering column has bit the dust from being remote started.

I am gonna give up for now, and see what else I can do for the time being regarding this. The Ford dealer said approx. $400 to reprogram another computer providing it actually communicates when its installed.

 

Did you check the 3 amp? fuse for the CPU or for that matter all the fuses and relays?

I have reprogrammed dozens of CPUs and have seen lots of scary wiring, but, I haven't seen anyone actually blow a CPU with an after market ignition kit or radio.

I would look for something easy and cheap to fix.

You know, since it started and then was dead, I am also thinking it is a relay problem. Isn't there a relay you can replace to defeat PATS?

Anyways, I did a search (I have done this on other vehicles myself like Jeeps) and some people fixed their problem by swapping their ECM and A/C relays (see link).

Matter of fact, I keep an assortment of 4 and 5 pin relays to swap out en-masse to quickly fix problems or to defeat cars with anti-thief relays (they look like normal relays, but, have anti-thief features tied into them under the cover).

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ht-blinks.html

PATS Key System Programming .: Articles

 

The dealership came and got the van and it will be Monday before it goes to the shop, and who knows how long til its actually ready for me to get it picked up.

I will wait til they say whats going on with it......

 

OK. I know I am not a complete idiot but when myself and a service manager at a Ford dealer both check EVERY fuse in the available fuse boxes and all check good, then the car-mart dealer's service guy pulls a fuse and says its blown and now its fixed......

Something sounds fishy here....... The service manager himself and myself both went thru every single fuse in that van and I even pulled the engine computer out and was seriously considering getting another one to get this van going. This guy at Car-Mart finds the fuse in 15 minutes and its running again....

Now I have to pay $170 in wrecker bills to get the van back. WHOOPEEEEE

But at least its not an engine computer or something else.

Later guys

Big Ed

 

> This guy at Car-Mart finds the fuse in 15 minutes and its running again....
> Something sounds fishy here...

This is probably more like hands on experience You should politely beg the guy to show you which one it was so you can keep a spare and be ready next time. It might not be in an obvious place.

Pulling fuses and looking at them is one thing, putting a tester on each one and testing them one by one is another thing. I have seen fuses not blown visually, but, with bad legs for example. Sometimes when I know a circuit should work and does not, I just swap in a new fuse and viola! it works.

"I would look for something easy and cheap to fix."

Just be thankful the guy at Carmart was honest and able to get it done without replacing everything under the hood, before someone finally replaced the fuse.

When I do a repair like this, I either write the fix in the front of the owner's manual or Haynes repair manual so someone in the future can easily find it again. It does not hurt to tape a good fuse or replacement part in the glovebox somewhere either.

FWIW: I would consider this a happy ending.

You could have swapped in a bunch of parts and still not gotten anywhere.
The vehicle runs, you got it fixed for under $200, you have your alarm, you learned something, you are not making a new car payment, everything is good