anybody have any instructions or ideas for a complete coolant flush on my 2001 f350 7.3?? thanks.

 

Here is the method suggested by Gooch on another site.

I used the following method and had zero problems.
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Goochs Radiator Flush Procedure

Here's my flush procedure for doing a complete flush:

You'll need the following:

4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate. In agreement with International who made your engine, I recommend a conventional coolant with SCA, or a pre-charged conventional coolant for the early 99's (pre-2/2/99). For all other 99-up PSD's I recommend a Heavy Duty ELC. But the choice of coolant is yours.

SCA (if using conventional un-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).

Up to 20 gallons of distilled water (you may use less if your tap water quality is excellent requiring less flushing).

A Prestone flush kit with "T".

1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").

A new thermostat gasket.

Possibly a new thermostat, new coolant filter (if you've added one), or any hoses or hose clamps that you think may need replacing.

Note: A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.


Flushing procedure:

Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.

Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help circulate the old coolant out of the heater core during flushing.

Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).

Drain radiator at pet-**** (bottom left-hand driver's side) into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.

Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.

Remove driver's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

Remove passenger's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container (this is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter).

Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.

Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing).

Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.

Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.

Close radiator pet-****.

Remove heater hose at passenger's side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).

Install that heater hose to one end of the flush "T".

Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T".

Install the remaining end of the 5.8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from.

*Note*: You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired.

Install garden hose onto flush "T".

Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.

With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint).

Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.

Drain radiator at petcock, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.

Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose to engine.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).

Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.

Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock permanently.

Install both block plugs and tighten permanently.

(You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad).

Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket.

Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.

If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).

Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.

Replace degas bottle cap.

Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.

Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.

Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle. (this may take several days).

Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.

This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. If in cold climates, it is always best to have the freeze protection tested with a quality refractometer.

Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.
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Stewart

 

Just did this over the past weekend; put in new hoses, serpentine belt, 203 thermostat, new thermostat housing and the Zerex G05. A bit of a PITA insofar as time is concerned but well worth it in terms of reliability and not having to worry about the cooling system. Of course, as soon as I say that the waterpump will probably go out. Oh well, I love it.

 

When I did this last year, I did everything you did (belt, hoses, stat, stat housing) except I also changed my water pump and added a coolant bypass kit.

I chose to go with the Chevron Delo ELC, so I know it's good until my rig completely dies.

Stewart

 

Chevron Delo ELC is easier and is there any additive?? thanks. rob.

 

There is no maintenance additive needed, unlike the green coolant.

There is however an extender additive you can use. This will allow the coolant to go from 750,000 miles (without the extender) to 1 million miles (with the extender) before needing to be changed.

Chevron Delo heavy duty ELC is the bomb.

http://www.chevron.com/products/wheretobuy.aspx

Stewart

 

how many gallons does a 7.3 take?? where can u buy and how much per gallon??

 

Here's a little info on coolants I copied from a post by Gooch on another site.
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I would recommend a silicate-free, maintenance-free, Heavy Duty ELC. Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolants (HD ELC's - usually "Red") require no such SCA. These are the types of coolants International recommends for all 2/2/99-up engines.

Here is a list of ELC's that would work:

• CAT HD ELC
• Fleetrite HD ELC (International's brand)
• Rotella HD ELC
• Prestone HD ELC
• Zerex Extreme HD ELC
• Chevron/Texaco/Delo ELC

Chevron DELO ELC is the bomb!

Fleetrite / Rotella ELC : The Rotella is the same exact stuff as the Fleetrite, just in different bottles and it's the best type of coolant to use. Just make sure you do a proper flush and use distilled water.

Zerez Extreme Duty (RED)...you can get it at Napa. It is already pre charged and doesn't require any monitoring or additives.

FYI, there are two types of SCA. DCA-2 and DCA-4.

NapaKool is a DCA-2 SCA.

DCA-2 is a Nitrite-only based SCA. Nitrite is the primary and most effective cavitation inhibitor in any SCA. DCA-2 usually contains potassium buffers, free of phosphate.

DCA-2 was the first SCA, and it remains the most popular. It can be tested with any test strip that shows Nitrite levels, either a 2-way or 3-way strip.

DCA-4 is a Molybdate/Nitrite based SCA. It uses both Molybdate and Nitrite "synergy" as a cavitation inhibitor. DCA-4 usually has sodium buffers and phosphates.

DCA-4 is somewhat harder to find, maintain, and optimize. It can be tested with a 3-way test strip, although conversions are available for using 2-way strips.
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Stewart

 

I added a link on where to buy the Delo in my above post, post #6.

See post #2, the flushing procedure, for the amount of fluids you'll need.

Stewart

 

how many gallons for a 7.3 and will be installing a coolent bypass filter system?? do u know what stores carry coolant, Fleetrite / Rotella ELC ?? i think walmart sells?? thanks.

ps
was there some kind of recall or warning on the red style coolant??

 

Adding a coolant bypass filter setup will only necessitate adding a miniscule amount of extra coolant to the total volume.

I have no knowledge of any recall on heavy duty ELC's.

Stewart

EDIT: I just did a quick Google search on heavy duty ELC's and there was no mention of any kind of recall or problems with any brand of HD Extended Life Coolant.

 

Stewart or anyone:

Does anyone have any images to go along with the procedure? I am not sure what the degas bottle is, is that the res towards the right where you actually fill the coolant? I would love a picture of the petcock, the block plug, stat housing, that sort of stuff. If not I can probably figure it out or pick up a manual.

How about what to do with all that flushed coolant?

And my last question is what does the coolant bypass kit do?

I've had my 7.3 less than 1 year, still learning.

 

there are pictures here...same procedure as posted earlier

Coolant changing instructions... - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com


the bypass kit filters the coolant and keeps the water pump from wearing out as fast.

with the coolant...not sure if its right but i poured mine down the sewer cleanout at my house.

 

Yes it is.

See my link below for pictures.

Or, instead of posting a link to another site, you can post a link to the thread I created here at FTE that has pictures.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8935201

Stewart

 

I think the only Prestone you can now buy says 'All Makes, All Models' - which means it's OAT, which means it's not correct for an '01 7.3, correct?

I read a Motor magazine article on coolants and am now more confused than ever. There are very few 'old style' antifreeze products sold at chain auto parts stores. They mostly have premixed and $#@%^ Dexcool/OAT stuff. The only 'ELC' I found at a Pep Boys was premixed, $20/gallon, and they had a whopping 2 gallons in stock.