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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

A/C Help Needed PLZ

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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #16  
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Dre82s
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From: Toasty FLORIDA
how can I retrofit my 88, I did come with factory ac, and when I turn it on the compressor kick and all but all the houses are clamped in place, will R 134 hold it together if I charge it?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 09:26 PM
  #17  
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Dre82s
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From: Toasty FLORIDA
HOw do I go about converting my r12 into an r134 the system is there and when I kick it on the compressor runs and all, but all my houses are clamped???? Will they clamps hold on the pressure of the r134?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 10:44 PM
  #18  
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the donor truck must have been '93 then because all the accumulator says r12 on it and the fittings are shrader. it was definiately an r12 system. what should i do to update the electronics?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2008 | 02:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by lsrx101
What year was your donor truck?
-If the donor truck was r12 and your 95 was wired for r134a, you won't have an HPCO but the truck may have the connector. There's a break in the circuit. The HPCO is on the compressor manifold, if equipped. The connector is in the compressor harness near the back of the compressor..
lsrx101, I think you've solved my problem. The A/C system off the donor truck is R12. What should i do to make it compadible for my truck? thanks.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2008 | 05:11 PM
  #20  
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lsrx101
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Originally Posted by IreallyLikeFords
lsrx101, i think you may have figured it out. the donor truck was a '94 (R12) and mine is a '95 (R134a) i didn't realize the electronics were different. What should i do?
Well. the easy way would be to connect the Green/orange wire at the cycling switch to the Black/yellow wire at the compresor. That would make the system work normally, but it wouldn't be doing it "right".

BTW, did you use existing wiring that was under the hood on your truck ? (compressor, Low Pressure Cutout Switch, etc).

Check and see if there are 4 relays on the drivers inner fender. The one closest to the firewall is the WOT relay. That slot might be empty. If it is, and there are wires in the connector, plug in a relay just like the ones next to it. If there are no wires to the relay socket, you may have to settle for the way I mentioned above.

Also, look at the harness going to the compressor. There should be an orphan 2 wire connector that would easily reach the manifold on the back of the compressor. That is for the high pressure cutout that the older system didn't have. Jumper the pins. The wire colors are both dark green/orange.

Let me know what you find.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2008 | 05:13 PM
  #21  
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lsrx101
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Originally Posted by Dre82s
how can I retrofit my 88, I did come with factory ac, and when I turn it on the compressor kick and all but all the houses are clamped in place, will R 134 hold it together if I charge it?
It would be better if you started a new thread instead of jumping into an existing one.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 10:28 PM
  #22  
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lsrx101,

You've solved my problem!! thank you so much! i drove home tonight with cold air conditioning and it was great. i was wondering what that orphan 2 wire connector was floating in there. i just jumpered that connection and everything worked great. the manifold that i got doesnt have a spot for a high pressure switch so i just tied the wire off after jumpering it.
When i was driving i noticed that when i got on the gas a lot it seemed like the air would cut off. like the air from the fan was being diverted but maybe it has to do with the WOT relay that you mentioned. i'll check that out tomorrow. thanks again.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 10:33 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by F150xlt
94 was the first year for R134a on the F series trucks.

The high and low side fittings are coupler type fittings.

R12 fittings are screw on.

Tha change happened mid year in 94. There are both R12 and R134a 94 trucks.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2008 | 02:56 PM
  #24  
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i noticed that when i got on the gas a lot it seemed like the air would cut off. like the air from the fan was being diverted

This usually is a result of a vacum leak. It is not a big leak or it would stay diverted to the defrost position. Search previous threads for step by step trouble shooting, but the most common place is a white rigid vacum line real close to the heater fan motor in the engine compartment. Since you were working in the area when you added the AC componets, it is even more likely that it cracked and is leaking a bit. 2nd quick place to look is the vacum accumulator. They rust out where they touch the innner fender.
Good Luck Frank
 
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Old Jul 19, 2008 | 09:52 PM
  #25  
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fmr9, that was was exactly the problem, thanks a lot. it was the white hard line that was rotted out. i just cut it back to where it was good and attached another piece of hose and it works great! thanks for all your help guys! I added factory a/c to my truck with junkyard parts all for about $100! its really cold too!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #26  
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lsrx101
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Originally Posted by IreallyLikeFords
lsrx101,

You've solved my problem!! thank you so much! i drove home tonight with cold air conditioning and it was great. i was wondering what that orphan 2 wire connector was floating in there. i just jumpered that connection and everything worked great. the manifold that i got doesnt have a spot for a high pressure switch so i just tied the wire off after jumpering it.
When i was driving i noticed that when i got on the gas a lot it seemed like the air would cut off. like the air from the fan was being diverted but maybe it has to do with the WOT relay that you mentioned. i'll check that out tomorrow. thanks again.
Good Work Dude!

You have a pressure relief valve on the manifold that does basically what the HPCO does, only it vents the refrigerant if the pressure gets too high. Not the best idea, but at least your compressor is protected. The HPCO was mandatory on all factory R134a systems. Yours is "technically" a converted R12 system. They make a kit to add a HPCO onto the high side service port if you want to really do it "right". You already have the wiring.

Keep chillin'!
 
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