Great work man. cant wait to see what i sent you enter the pics. i really like the seats. ill have to think about that for mine.

 

The seats look great! Who's Jim and what's the story on the seat brackets? Are they made specifically for these trucks? Is the ride height of the seats about the same as the bench seat?

Thanks.

 

Jim hangs out here and on slick 60's. He has a couple of rangers and had someone repop the brackets. There was a ranger package in 65-66 that used mustang bucket seats. The bracket closest to the door should bolt in the stock location the other bracket requires drilling new holes. Drop me a line, I have his phone number and address on a box.

OK, the rain didn't stop me today, just made things a little interesting. Never got an A frame, and no one was available to help, so me an the trusty modified cherry picker got the job done. Biggest problem was stripped bolts. One cab bolt seemed loose. I wiggled the bottom and it fell out, lol. Bumped my brake line and it sheered off. Sure makes you feel safe. To cut weight on the cherry picker I pulled the doors, bench seat, and the fuel tank. Seemed to help. Couple 50lb bags of sand on the back of the picker also helped.









Out with the old and in with the new!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!











It was very, very hard to put that rusted, chipped, and dingy sheet metal on my pristine frame. This winter I'll be tearing it down again to make the metal as nice as the frame.

 

Looking awesome Drof46. it is nice when things start to come together.

 

Had the chance to read this thread from start to finish - awesome work, man. Looking like it's really coming together well for you.

 

wow talk about heavy lifting. great work.

 

Hey Drof46 so I was trying to line up all my sheet metal and pulled out my front bumper from my 64 and the one from my 75 and it seems like with the way everything is sitting the bumper is sticking out 1 inch and needs to go closer to the truck. Check yours out and see what happens and let me know. It is a little weird as I haven't read anywhere with other frame swaps that guys had an issue with that piece. My front clip lines up the same as the 75 did so I don't know what the issue is but I already have 2 solutions I could do.

D

 

I currently have a 64, 66, and 79 frame. The 64 and 66 are the same. As you stated the 79 sticks out an inch further. Not sure if the 79 bumper will take up the difference. I'll have to dig it out later and see. Let me know what you figure out. Shoot me a PM. I'm almost positive the rear will require a late model bumper to line up with the wider bolt holes.

 

Well I've made a little more progress. Firewall and inner fenders were hit with a wire wheel and then primered and painted with a rattle can. I will be running the wiring under the fender so its hidden. I want a cleaner look under the hood than I previously had. There will still be one alternator wire, distributor wire, water temp, and oil pressure guage wires running to the back of the engine then disappering into the firewall. Other than that its will be very clean.






Bucket seats are bolted down and ready to go.







New battery bracket is mounted and ready for action. Sits a little lower than I wanted, but the worst thing this truck will be driven over is a speed bump.







Power brakes are all plumbed and bleed. New booster and master are bolted up. The push rod was a little long, but I just cut out the excess fromt the center and welded it back together. Hit everything with primer and then black paint.







As stated in a previous post, I did not rebuild the engine and was simply told it had a mild street cam. Just to be on the safe side I bought a vacuum canister thats equipped with a 1 way valve to maintain vacuum for the power brakes. Mounted nicely to the firewall.







I didn't like the look of the stock power steering coolers, so as stated in a prior post I bought the smallest trans cooler I could find. Had some braided fuel line left so I used it for the hoses. Mounted nicely to the frame rail. You can also see the front sway bar is now mounted and ready for action.







I have a wiring kit from EZ wiring as suggested by DMAN. Need to get the money for the digital guages. I'm going with the Dakota digital guages that fit in the pre-66 dash bezel. I have a couple saved from prior trucks so once I get the cash this will be the route I'm going. My used steering column was blasted, primed, dry fit so I could weld the 66 bracket to the 73-76 tube, taken back apart and painted. My drive shaft from the donar truck was warped/bent according to the machine shop. Bought 2 more used ones from the salvage yard and took them both down to him, so I should at least be getting one back, lol. Still have some odds and ends that I need, but aside from the wiring its almost ready for some summer driving. The old farmer mirrors have been removed and I got the small ones that mount to the top of the door ready for install.

Forgot to add that my hood hinges are now cleaned up and powder coated gloss black. Still amazed how you take them a rusty looking piece of metal and get back a piece that looks better than new.


Thanks for looking at my junk!

 

Nice work, drof46! I noticed you didn't put the multiple spirals in your brake lines from the master cylinder. What are the spirals for and are they required? I'm about to plumb the line for the disc brake conversion on my 66 and would like to know what is really necessary for the lines from the master cylinder.
Thanks.
Randy

 

I didn't do the spirals on my 64 when I put all new brakes either and they worked just fine. My only guess is maybe Ford had one size tubing and just bent them to take the extra slack up. They are not necessary in my opinion and would just take up more space.

 

I was under the impression that the spirals were there to absorb vibration.

 

summit has a chrome tilt colume that looks stock if your interested. i found it a couple weeks ago. im in the middle of putting mine back to gether now so i was kinda looking around.

also comes in powder coated black.

 

Wyatt, can't wait to see those buckets mounted that you got for cheap. Thanks for the heads up. Ididit can make one with the correct 66 bracket also but when they said its custom I figured it would have a custom price. I will not be putting the dash pad in until I pull the cab back off and get the whole thing soda blasted and start the paint process.


As for absorbing shock. My proportioning valve is mounted to the frame. The cab is mounted to the frame also. The only movement will be however much the cab bushing absorbs/compresses which could not be more than 1/4 inch. The energy suspension bushings I used also have a metal liner built in.

 

Had a good weekend. I got my column back together. Replaced the steering wheel in a 64 I owned with this same steering wheel. I really like it last time so I got another one for this truck.



Driveline is shortened. Got it cleaned up and painted. Its ready for some action.





Used the Lokar high tech kit that included throttle cable, c4 kickdown cable, and carb mounting bracket.





Hughes trans tube with locking dipstick installed.







Starting to sound like a broken record but I really need to just bite the bullet and order my digital guages. Plan to drop the radiator off this week and have it cleaned and rodded out. Thanks for looking at my junk.

Hotter than heck today. Had to leave the shop closed since it was a little cooler inside today. I have an old attic fan converted to a shop fan. Felt a lot better than nothing today.

later