When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a completely stock FE/C6 setup with all original parts, save a new front transmission seal. The torque converter slides into at least one set of splines, then stops "solidly". It is only even with the bellhousing. I don't believe the second set of splines is engaging, or perhaps it is the two flats on the snout.
No amount of turning, wiggling, or cussing seems to help it get past this point.
The last thing the converter must slip into is the pump. Check the end of the converter and make sure there is no damage to that area. It sounds like you are doing the right process. That is the converter that was in the trans before?
Yes, same one. There is no damage, and nothing has been forced. It came out smoothly. Two other fellows with no C6 experience gave it a try, and had no luck. The tranny is hung on a chain, supported by a pole across the engine compartment. I wonder if the tension on the shift linkage has anything to do with it?
Does varnish or a mechanical ridge develop on the splines that might make engagement difficult?
The shifter doesn't matter. Transmission fluid is full of detergent so even though the pan and filter may be full of slime the inside of the trans will be very clean.
I usually grab the converter at the top and bottom and jiggle it while rotating a few degrees right and left until it slides all the way in. Should be a one minute job at most.
I am trying to think of things that could go wrong to cause your problem. I am not sure if the pump rotor can slide off center when the converter is out on that trans. I don't think it can.
When you pulled the enginge the converter wasn't still attached to it was it?
Just keep turning it slowly while pushing in, keeping the convert as straight as you can. If you have to old converter make sure you have the right one. I;ve ahd a few that had to be spun as much as 270deg before it slipped all the way in.
There are only two flats that drive the pump, so it can have a long ways to spin before it lines up. Also, don't push too hard, or you'll just turn the pump and be right back where you started.
I'm paying attention to all of the above. Three of us have tried all of this advice, and it still does not align. We have gone around dozens of times, wiggling and holding it in alighnment.
There does not appear to be any damage, bending, or any such factor.
A new transmission seal was installed. Since we can't see back there behind the torque converter, is there any way the seal might be interfering with engagement? The surface of the seal is about flush with the casting. The TC body just barely extends past the bellhousing, with the bolts clearly past the bellhousing. Does this position ring any bells for someone?
This is nearing a crisis point, as moving time is in a couple of days. ACK!
The way the transmission shop installs the torque converter follows:
Use very fine sandpaper on the snout, just enough to polish it up a bit.
Then, they place the snout on the shaft, and begin cranking the TC around via one of the short studs. This makes it wobble a bit, pick up speed, and causes the inside set of vanes to turn. Then with a very gentle motion, they push it in as it catches.
My mistake was to move too slowly, and push too firmly. The vanes inside just stopped, and didn't turn to a position where they would line up.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.