Need Help! 6.9L dropping radiator fluid
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
got the parts ($17 from the ford dealer because NAPA did not have the $5.78 set in stock but I feel better knowing these are the correct ones) thanks for the part #'s Dave. Is it common for these to fail?
Cleaned out the garage and it is draining right now so I should have it done by the end of the night. Dealer wanted $470+ to do it.
Cleaned out the garage and it is draining right now so I should have it done by the end of the night. Dealer wanted $470+ to do it.
Good luck
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 188
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I am at it right now but am having trouble when the manual is referring to a "nut" that needs to be loosened to allow the motor to be jacked up. Can anyone help with this? I took this pic and have the hanes manual but it is very vague including the figure with the motor mounting schematic.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
When I do mine, I usually remove the bolt that is in the bar going into rubber bushing, there is one on each end of the bar.
The only bad part is sometimes that can be a bear to put back in.
The only bad part is sometimes that can be a bear to put back in.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
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Thanks for your reply, it is really going to help considering that it was not a gasket leak but rather a hole on the top water passage in the oil cooler almost big enough for me to stick my little finger in. I guess I need to see how much a new oil cooler is going to cost.......bummer
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
The ends of the cooler are die cast aluminum. Any Tig wielder worth his salt can repair that. If I were any closer I could do it for you.
See if you can find a metal fab shop that could be able to fix it. You might luck out and find some one that can help. I remember the cost of a new one is high and they are hard to find.
Were you able to snap a photo of the damage?
See if you can find a metal fab shop that could be able to fix it. You might luck out and find some one that can help. I remember the cost of a new one is high and they are hard to find.
Were you able to snap a photo of the damage?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
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Thanks for the info. I didn't take a pic but could actually get the tip of my index finger into the hole almost to the first joint, thats how big it is. The corrosion was so bad that I thought the header was made of zinc. So I put my left index finger in the coolant passage, neaded some of the waterweld putty, slapped it on the hole and worked it around while leaving my finger in the hole. I think it will hold in the meantime and am going to pour deionized water in there this afternoon to test it. I have a friend that works at a machine shop with a dedicated welder so if I decide to keep the truck I would be able to have him do it for free but I would always be concerned that other areas may be paper thin and ready to burst.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
E4TZ-6881-B
Rear oil cooler header part number.
About 250 dollars was my cost, and I get a rather good discount on my parts at Ford.
Rear oil cooler header part number.
About 250 dollars was my cost, and I get a rather good discount on my parts at Ford.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 188
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Thanks for the part number, Dave. Best price I found was $204 so I will definitely keep that in mind while weighing my options. I filled it back up with the fuilds and let it sit for around 6 hours, came back and there were no drips, then started it up and no drips!!!!
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