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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 11:06 PM
  #1  
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Start er up

This weekend My buddy and I are going to try to fire up the
straight 6 in the 62 F-100.
The engine is supposed to be locked up and the truck has been parked for at least 20 years.
We are going to pull the plugs and try to hand crank the engine and if that succeeds, we will try and fire it up.

Any tips on what can do before or after we fire it up ??

We will change oil with some Marvel Mystery oil and new plugs and wires if it turns over.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 06:34 AM
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My first thoughts is to count on it being locked up, as well as a busted block or cracked heads from freezing. Put new gas in it and it will run out of the seal rotted carb nearly as fast as it goes in. The brakes and other fluid controlled devices will not function.

It might be fun to go investigate the condition of the truck but I wouldn't count on running it. Load it up and bring it in to where you can work on it if the truck is salvageable.

If it has been sitting out in a field check the surface rust underneath it can be pretty overwhelming.

IMHO


John
 
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 06:45 AM
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Luckily, it had been sitting in a carport enclosed on 2 sides so the sun has not not done much damage to it.
My nephew is 2/3 thru getting his amaster degree at Oklahoma University and he wants to do a frame off restoration when he gets settled.

I am basicaly holding it for him and want to get it running so I can move it around to keep the cities neighborhood inspectors off my case if necessary.
My Grandpa bought it brand new in 62 in Tulsa.

The brakes are completely gone at this time ! I never thought of the freezing part though. Thanks !!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 09:48 AM
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If not damaged before it was stored and does not bind thru couple rotations then there should be no problem. Suggest remove valve covers, plugs, flush the engine in a lubricant and let set 24 hrs. then drain and replace oil. May want to take a look at the points, plugs, and condensor and make sure they were in operating condition. Recall purchasing a number of abandoned trucks and usually found the engine was the least of my problem.

Regarding the brakes, suggest taking a can of brake cleaner and plush out the drums as much as possible. I would probably use a type of lubricant designed to help free up locked fastenters, etc., perhaps mystery oil, or something simular. May want to take tention of emergency brake assembly, most cases matter of releasing tention on the adjustment bar located under the bed. Douse the brake and let them set until you can get around to trying to remove the drums. If shoes and other hardware are frozen to the drum, removing could be a pain in the back side. Again, have not found set of drums that can not be removed with patience.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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Gibbs shot in to the cylenders a few days before will help free the rings so they do not crack.

Avalible at Roadsters.com hot rod parts Best stuff on the planet for penetrationg fluid. Even better than Kroil..

Garbz
 
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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Two-Five years I might consider the attempt to start it. 20 years, I'd soak it for a few weeks and then pull it for a tear down. Between stuck valves, broken springs, snapped rings, or God knows what might be the case with the rotating assembly(bearings, wrist pins, dizzy gear, etc..) I'd just do my best to possibly salvage a easy rebuild core. I cant see any positives to just firing up a 20 year dormant engine to see if it will run. It may in fact run but lets face it. It'll be short lived and probably get ugly quick! JMO If you are bound and determined to run it then I'd certainly soak it, turn it by hand (AFTER USING A PRIMER TO TURN THE OIL PUMP FOR AT LEAST 20 MIN) Get oil where it's going to get before turning that engine over. I might even suggest draining that oil and putting freshly drained hot oil(from another vehicle in need of a change) in place of it. Oil that has been sitting for that long is probably highly acidic.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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Sorry, missed the stored 20 yrs. Agree w/ Redmanbob, best to take precautions, easier to clean out cylinder walls as opposed to sucking valve, etc., particularly if engine has been bored in the past. Believe you can go to 60 over on the 352, which I had to do on my 390, perhaps more knowledgeable member will know.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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Now you guys have me thinking twice about trying to fire it up.
I need to be able to move it if necessary, but I do not want to bust up anything.
Guess we will try to hand crank it first and go from there !!
 
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 09:46 PM
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He is probably going to replace the straight 6 anyway. Sounds like you are going to rebuild the engine, so might as well rebuild something worth fixing. I'm guessing its a 223. I was all for keeping things original at one time. Joe blow pulled up next to me in a chebby and we both had the windows down(two old trucks with no AC). He said wanna go? I had to say, I've got a 223 I don't think so. Next time I will say, I only have a 351 cleveland, sure you wanna lose?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 09:58 PM
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You are correct on that drof46, we plan on putting a small V8 in it, something
like a 302 so we won't have to beef up the front suspension.

I've been told that the smaller V8s weigh about the same as this cast iron
V6.
Heck my nephew may want to put something like a 351 Cleveland in it also, if we can find one, but I doubt it.
 
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