What comes first, front clip install?
#1
What comes first, front clip install?
Hey guys, what is a good order to go by for mocking up the front end on my 55 f1. I have the cab back ont the frame and want to install the front clip. I think i have all the pieces, Im sure just have to think where its been stored! I never took a truck apart. I have picked up the parts over the years and now its time to put the puzzle together. Thanks!!!!!!!!
#2
Radiator support first,
then air dams & gravel pan (easiest now)
then inner fenders to cab & air dams, leave loose
then valance
set hood on and align.
make sure all that is straight & square.
remove hood
then fenders, they should slide straight on
install hood on hinges or however you intend to open.
make sure you have enough bolts & nuts
if the held nuts at the cab haven't been used for a while, and are not new, suggest you run a tap thru to clean them up
on the rad support as well, and back of front fenders.. will save bitchin later.
I just assembled the front on my new parts/next 55 in less than an hour last saturday by myself. I didn't go for alignment, just attached.
As I was pickin this up out of someones yard, I wanted to go fast, I sprayed every nut with WD40, and used my extra battery drill with the tap in it to chase all the threads.
then used by main drill with the 1/2 in socket, and a good 1/2 brake wrench to hold the nuts where required..
Sam
then air dams & gravel pan (easiest now)
then inner fenders to cab & air dams, leave loose
then valance
set hood on and align.
make sure all that is straight & square.
remove hood
then fenders, they should slide straight on
install hood on hinges or however you intend to open.
make sure you have enough bolts & nuts
if the held nuts at the cab haven't been used for a while, and are not new, suggest you run a tap thru to clean them up
on the rad support as well, and back of front fenders.. will save bitchin later.
I just assembled the front on my new parts/next 55 in less than an hour last saturday by myself. I didn't go for alignment, just attached.
As I was pickin this up out of someones yard, I wanted to go fast, I sprayed every nut with WD40, and used my extra battery drill with the tap in it to chase all the threads.
then used by main drill with the 1/2 in socket, and a good 1/2 brake wrench to hold the nuts where required..
Sam
#3
sdetweil has the sequence. The rationale for doing it this way is to get the hood aligned with the cab first. Once the radiator support is fixed in place then the fenders can go on and be more easily aligned to the hood. Getting this done in the proper sequence should save you some time and grief later...good luck.
#4
Rodger, I hope you see some build progress over the long weekend, follow the above method...paying due attention to the Hood fit, from my experience with the"pound-puppy" , ( that's a pile of parts)..every thing on the front-clip is based off of and adjusted to the Hood...take your time here and your efforts will be rewarded later. Cab centered and level?...after the front fenders are on, the running-boards will probably determine where the rear fenders will mount to the bed.
Randy Jack has often recommended using cleco's to re-align panels after you have your best possable fit...makes realignment and reassembly a snap the second time around ( and 3rd, and 4th, and 5th....LoL)...Highly recommended...Thanks RJ!
Have a enjoyable 4th Weekend...keep it Fun!
Randy Jack has often recommended using cleco's to re-align panels after you have your best possable fit...makes realignment and reassembly a snap the second time around ( and 3rd, and 4th, and 5th....LoL)...Highly recommended...Thanks RJ!
Have a enjoyable 4th Weekend...keep it Fun!
#7
I would be interested in learning more about the cleco technique, did RJ do a tech post on this subject? Wondering what length/diameter cleco, washers, etc...I guess I could experiment myself but I never had a problem using others ideas if it meant saving time.
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#8
CharlieLed, Yeah , RJ's method is "the-bee's-knees" , highly recommended.,check out his Gallery!...I'm sure you have heard of drilling 'indexing" holes in things to keep them aligned or to re-align them using 1/8" welding rod or drill-bits, the cleco's are pretty stout little buggers and IMHO, actually pull things together, less slop/play in fitment.
I can imagine attempting to install freshly painted body-panels..without cleco's, but that just raises my blood-pressure, ...LoL!
I can imagine attempting to install freshly painted body-panels..without cleco's, but that just raises my blood-pressure, ...LoL!
#9
Thanks for the ack, folks.
The key to using clecoes is to drill two holes (spread as far apart as is reasonable) between each mating panel. I drilled between inner/outer fenders; fenders/gravel pan; inner fenders/cab; air dams/inner fenders/outer fenders/radiator support. I can install all the front clip sheet metal alone in about 15 minutes. I'd want an extra pair of hands if it were in final paint and I would tape over the painted seam when installing, then remove the tape before tightening any bolts.
My hood is front tilt and goes on last for me.
The key to using clecoes is to drill two holes (spread as far apart as is reasonable) between each mating panel. I drilled between inner/outer fenders; fenders/gravel pan; inner fenders/cab; air dams/inner fenders/outer fenders/radiator support. I can install all the front clip sheet metal alone in about 15 minutes. I'd want an extra pair of hands if it were in final paint and I would tape over the painted seam when installing, then remove the tape before tightening any bolts.
My hood is front tilt and goes on last for me.
#10
Thanks to all for there input!!!!!!! I have started the install but theres a bit of a problem with the inner fenders against the air damns. It is pushing them forward. NOt a little a lot? Im tring to see if i put the core support in the wrong place or something like that. the cab bolted up just fine. I ordered the lower pads i was short and put them in last night. I did leave the cab loose? I thought i would leave it loose in case i had to shift it one way or another. IT looks pretty easy to put together.
Like i said before these are parts from all over the us you could say. I dont know if these parts i have are stock or aftermarket. By the looks they are all used but solid little surface rust and dents and dings.
Could the air damns be wrong? Im putting this together as a 55 f1 Thanks And Happy 4th!!!!
Like i said before these are parts from all over the us you could say. I dont know if these parts i have are stock or aftermarket. By the looks they are all used but solid little surface rust and dents and dings.
Could the air damns be wrong? Im putting this together as a 55 f1 Thanks And Happy 4th!!!!
#12
#14
I had the rad support in awhile because i was running the motor and did not want to loose the rad i paid so much to get fixxed! Thats a whole story in its self.
I just took the support off and see the slotted holes so good to go now. I also have a new bushing and pad kit from Dennis Carpenter. Im installing this now and back to lining up the clip.
I just took the support off and see the slotted holes so good to go now. I also have a new bushing and pad kit from Dennis Carpenter. Im installing this now and back to lining up the clip.
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ericconn
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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12-03-2013 02:36 PM