OK, I admit to being lazy and not be one to read instructions, but how did you run the contribution test on the AE? The closest thing I've stumbled across is something like rotational velocity, where it gives a percent for each cylinder. If that's not the right one let me know and I'll hook up my AE tomorrow and tell you exactly which reading I'm thinking of, and how to get there.

How about removing the oil cap to determine the amount of blowby? Minor to moderate smoke out the fill tube is normal. Puffing like a steam engine is bad news.

 

I need to straighten my AE out As I was recently trying to upgrade. All these test were performed on version 4.X (found in Help.....About). I tried to upgrade only to find that there was a subscribtion cost, but he would let me upgrade to 5.4 instead of the new 6.02. Just have to do it. Do you have the Ford expansion pack? I do and the test is underneath the OnBoard Test section. If you don't have the expansion pack you just see the evap system test which is ODB II generic for everything (don't know why, I don't remember a charcoal canister under my hood :-)) it is labeled something like KOER Cylinder Contribution Test. Should be in the same list as the injector buzz test. Both of them are in the Ford specific software module that is purchased separately from the software. Like an extra $150. But since I drive all Fords and turn my own wrenches, and my mom drives a ford, kinda made sense. I'll let my Mopar lovin inlaws and best friend figure out their complicated stuff on their own. lol
Chad

PS Just thought about it, the contribution test does look at velocity as it adjust injection profile. But mine doesn't tell me how bad, maybe your software is a better upgrade compared to mine.

 

Yes I have the enhanced package. My help / about shows I'm running V5.4.1. I haven't played around too much with the KOER tests, but it seems like if you go to the live data tab, you can get rotational velocity as one of your options. I seem to recall being able to do this and monitor all 8 cylinders on the screen. I'll look tomorrow if I can remember (assuming the slave driver doesn't keep me too busy)

 

I don't remember rotational velocity. I will check it when I get my 5.4.1 upgrade complete. Check out the pics and tell me what your think. Fuel that got dirty off the parts, or oil?





Betting pool anyone?
Still can't see enough to see the leak. Any ideas as to how to get at it. I can barely get an inspection mirror back there. I have already taken off the passenger intercooler pipe. Down pipe next?

Chad

 

just got finished digging around in the hood. Leak may not be fuel. passenger collector pipe is covered on it's forward side along with the back of the passenger head and rear portion of the fuel line, but so is the EBPV linkage and shaft (if i remember right, below the turbine housing right?). Took the downpipe off and it is wet inside. all my intake components have considerable amounts of thinned oil in it (i've decided it's considerable amounts as it pools in the boots and any low spots). There is also a pool in front of the turbo in the intake tube. don't know which one is abnormal. I'm not sure if this is due to bad oil or major issues. I think I will see about cleaning the intercooler and turbo pipes tomorrow, and see if I can find a way to do something about that oil. I don't know if the thinned oil is the problem or if possibly there is leftover's from the o-ring failure and my intercooler is full of crap. Will see about compression readings too.
Chad

 

i didnt read the thread but that looks like the fuel leak i had on the fuel line going to the back of the head..the o-ring was shot and would only leak when truck was running and warmed up..truck ran ruff do to air getting into the heads..may make her smoke a little too..oil with no fuel in injector..

 

Small puddles of oil in the IC pipes is normal. It comes from the CCV.

 

Started pulling various things apart on the engine. Tried to get a compression reading but can't connect the quick couple to the plug adapter with the intake rocker in the way or with the adapter screwed in all the way, only about half. Don't know how accurate that is, but I got no compression with it connected like that, not even if i let the cylinder set to re-fill. I tried this on my #5 cylinder. will have to see if I can modify it. It has a 90* bend in the end connector which mucks things up, will try and see if I can put new fittings on that to straighten it out. Does anyone know if somebody would rent me one, like a parts store or something?
Meanwhile back at the ranch.......I'm going to see about working on that fuel line. I bought a Viton O-ring assortment just in case and have disconnected the down pipe and other things in my way to see if i can get back there. Isn't there a filter screen in there to start with?

Chad

PS I did break down and buy some new oil. I'll see what results I get with that, just cheapo store brand 15w-40. Good Times

 

the fuel line with the oring screws into a fitting that has a screen in there and a oring on the end..my leak was in the line..just take the line off and you will see the oring under the nut..put on a new oring and snug the nut back down..not tight..just snugg..there not just a flat oring..there about 1/4 inch thich ..here is the IH part # when i got mine...685158c1 they where $1.88 each when i got mine from IH...

 

Just a bump, because I want to see the end result!!!

 

Got stuff loose and trying to break the fuel line free but can't get it good enough. How do you get to it? from top or bottom? I can get a stubby combo wrench on it, which I can, but no room for leverage and it seems like it is on there stiffer than it was at the fuel bowl. I have the downpipe disconnected and propped up from the bottom so I have more clearance underneath it, which allows me to get to the line. Just can't turn. How do all you fuel system guys get the line off?

Chad

 

Got the line free and the interior wall of the o-ring is shot. I'll by heading to the IH house tomorrow so I'll make a stop and pick up a set. I'll also dump my catch pan's at the recycling center and get ready for new oil. At least the filter screen looks clean via my inspection mirror. Does that come out of the head fitting?

Chad

 

ok,replaced the fuel oring at the back of the head, and two at the bowl. Changed oil but not filter including hpop and one head rail. Yanked #5 injector, visually checked, cleared the bore after the rail finished draining and tightened the injector back down. Figured out my green fluid, it's the ULSD. When it hit my oil it gave the appearance of a dark greenish/gray substance swirling in my oil with some separation. I tested this outside the bore with some drained oil and spare ULSD outta my can. Pretty close to what I saw previously, so we'll chalk that one up to solved since my coolant hasn't gone down. Maybe the fuel locally is pretty heavily dyed or something. Still putting everything back together, Will test tomorrow. Also had some dieselkleen left over so I splashed it in the tank, just a few ounces to a few gallons. We will see what happens tomorrow.
BTW, anyone looking for those o-rings, they are now almost $3 a shot. Gotta love inflation
Chad

 

Thanks for reporting back Chad. I am interseted to see what happens when you test her out.

 

Well fuel o-ring didn't fix smoke problem. In fact I had a friend over to help me with troubleshooting. The smoke out of the back of the engine is directly variable with throttle. Makes me think head gasket. Is there a position on the head that could blow out and not cause water leakage? But there is something else. I posted a video the smoke, then decided to do one for ccv blowby. When I did, I found one from kwikordead and mine is much worse. So take a look at the videos and tell me what you think. full rebuild time? Sorry about the quality, took these at night.

YouTube - POWERSTROKE Blowby
YouTube - Powerstroke smoke problem