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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Smog Delete

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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 03:04 PM
  #1  
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Smog Delete

my smog pump on my 1996 ford with a 5.0L is getiing harder and harder to turn has any one ever removed theirs with out messing up the EFI
 
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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Yes and no. If you remove the pump you also need to remove all the associated plumbing, plug the heads, exhaust, and vacuum lines where they attach to the TAB and TAD solenoids.... which should stay connected electrically. Then you'll need a shorter belt or an idler pulley to replace the pump. If you do all this you won't get a code and the motor will run fine, if you take a shortcut on any of these items your results will vary.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 12:03 PM
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thanks a lot
how would i go about plugging the heads
 
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 05:41 PM
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The holes where the tube attaches at the back of the heads is threaded, a coarse thread bolt or pipe plug will do the trick. I'm not sure the size at the moment but it's a pretty big bolt, probably about 1/2".
 
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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The holes in the back of the heads on my 87 5.8 where not threaded. It had the tube running between the two with a small block at each end that a bolt went through to attach it to the head.

I remove it and after pondering the problem for a few minutes I found the perfect solution.

I hacksawed off the tubing right at the block, then each little block was switched to the opposite side from where it is originally when its on the tube, then flipped over (flat side to the head) and attached them in place with the same bolt. They work perfect to cover the hole , I used high heat silicone to seal them in place. They never leaked from then on until the motor was replaced.

I worked with a small mirror so I could do it with the motor in place.

Not sure if the 302 is the same but thought I'd put it out there......
 
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 10:16 PM
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to plug the holes in my 94 5.0 with e7te heads i used 9/16" coarse thread bolts about 3/4"-1" long, to delete the tab/tad you have to put a 75 ohm 3 watt resistor into the plug for each solenoid I believe, i have yet to order/find the resistors to do this part yet, hope this helps
 
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:13 PM
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what do you think would happen if i left the pump on and hooked up but bypassed it with the beltjust went straight from the alt. to the crank.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by myakkacracka
what do you think would happen if i left the pump on and hooked up but bypassed it with the beltjust went straight from the alt. to the crank.
If you do that exhaust will trash the system in a very short time and then start to leak.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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my pump is not connected to the exhaust were the cat used to be. is it connected to the exhaust anywere esles in the system.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 05:16 PM
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Use the same bolt sizes found on the assocory brackets on the front of the block. Reason is, the heads were designed to be alike, thus universal for the side of the engine they are on, i.e. the driver's side head could swap with the passenger side head. With that being said, the bolt holes on the front are the same on the back, with one of the bolt holes being directly into the exhaust ports of the head. Using a short shoulder bolt and a copper washer as a gasket, you will have a sealed hole.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 10:15 PM
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What does this smog does to your truck and how do you know if its going bad?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 03:56 PM
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The Smog pump is just the A.I.R. pump that supplies air to the exhaust side of the engine. Depending on the system it uses either vacuum switches, electronic, or a mix of both to direct the flow to the exhaust ports at the head or to the Cat to help complete the combustion of unburned hydrocarbons. If it goes bad it will sieze up and cause the belt to slip and squeal at the pulley apparantly, but I havent had one go bad personally but have come across seized up pumps before.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 04:18 PM
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What'd I read some place some guys had taken all the guts out of the pump and install it'sa hollow body as a idler wheel?

Don't recall where I read that, anyone else see that?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 04:40 PM
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Not even sure if you can get that pump apart but it would still maintain the geometry of the belt system.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 01:35 PM
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so how many places is the pump hooked to the exhaust becasue if it is just one place then mine is already disconnected from were my cats used to be and if the exhaust is all that well hust the sysetem is i bypass it then i am good to then right. I don't know were the system is connected to the engine. does anybody know were i can find a diagram on the A.I.R. system
 
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