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Yes and no. If you remove the pump you also need to remove all the associated plumbing, plug the heads, exhaust, and vacuum lines where they attach to the TAB and TAD solenoids.... which should stay connected electrically. Then you'll need a shorter belt or an idler pulley to replace the pump. If you do all this you won't get a code and the motor will run fine, if you take a shortcut on any of these items your results will vary.
The holes where the tube attaches at the back of the heads is threaded, a coarse thread bolt or pipe plug will do the trick. I'm not sure the size at the moment but it's a pretty big bolt, probably about 1/2".
The holes in the back of the heads on my 87 5.8 where not threaded. It had the tube running between the two with a small block at each end that a bolt went through to attach it to the head.
I remove it and after pondering the problem for a few minutes I found the perfect solution.
I hacksawed off the tubing right at the block, then each little block was switched to the opposite side from where it is originally when its on the tube, then flipped over (flat side to the head) and attached them in place with the same bolt. They work perfect to cover the hole , I used high heat silicone to seal them in place. They never leaked from then on until the motor was replaced.
I worked with a small mirror so I could do it with the motor in place.
Not sure if the 302 is the same but thought I'd put it out there......
to plug the holes in my 94 5.0 with e7te heads i used 9/16" coarse thread bolts about 3/4"-1" long, to delete the tab/tad you have to put a 75 ohm 3 watt resistor into the plug for each solenoid I believe, i have yet to order/find the resistors to do this part yet, hope this helps
Use the same bolt sizes found on the assocory brackets on the front of the block. Reason is, the heads were designed to be alike, thus universal for the side of the engine they are on, i.e. the driver's side head could swap with the passenger side head. With that being said, the bolt holes on the front are the same on the back, with one of the bolt holes being directly into the exhaust ports of the head. Using a short shoulder bolt and a copper washer as a gasket, you will have a sealed hole.
The Smog pump is just the A.I.R. pump that supplies air to the exhaust side of the engine. Depending on the system it uses either vacuum switches, electronic, or a mix of both to direct the flow to the exhaust ports at the head or to the Cat to help complete the combustion of unburned hydrocarbons. If it goes bad it will sieze up and cause the belt to slip and squeal at the pulley apparantly, but I havent had one go bad personally but have come across seized up pumps before.
so how many places is the pump hooked to the exhaust becasue if it is just one place then mine is already disconnected from were my cats used to be and if the exhaust is all that well hust the sysetem is i bypass it then i am good to then right. I don't know were the system is connected to the engine. does anybody know were i can find a diagram on the A.I.R. system