I'm exhausted of searching and trying different things to get that last 5psi boost. Folks say my stock truck should get 20. But i can only achieve 15, 17 red line plugged. 2000 rpm easy on the go peddle to get going i will run 5psi. I just don't seem to be able to get 20 @ WOT. I stay up late to the wee hours of the morning reading and searching. Tucks runs fine. Been running ragged ,need to sleep i race home from work and try what i have learned. The search till the wee hours in the morning again. I am running on empty. When something seems not right it kills me.
Note: when it gets 15 the gauge needle has the shakes. All other times, smooth

Up Pipes clean as a button.
No Leaks after pressure test. (well had two, One at map sensor and the waist gate actuator. Both easily fixed.
Motor is spotless from all the soap bubbles. The only air i hear is, air going in and some out the CCV. If i stick my thumb in ccv it slowly builds up pressure.

It appears the waist gate is closed. I can (red faced) push it open, barely with my fingers and in a tight spot and let it go. It seems it slams shut and i hear a "TINK" to tell me so.
In the Waist gate .pdf. I forget were i got it. The below paragraph i tried to do. But have a couple notes.
Mechanical checks: Resistance between pin 1 & ground on the wastegate solenoid connector should be
>10Kohms.( I GOT 2.7mohms) Resistance between pin 1 & 2 should be < 50ohms.(I GOT 5.5mohms) Voltage with Key On Engine Off between
pin 2 and ground should be > 10.5vdc.(I GOT 12.5v) Leak checks should be carried out on both red and green lines as well as the solenoid and actuator should hold a vacuum. This can be accomplished by removing the red line
from the actuator and applying a slight vacuum to the red line this will test the red line and solenoid, then apply vacuum to the actuator.(HUH? The red line t's off and goes in the "Y" Base. Had to use finger over end of hose.)
And i am not to electrical to understand ohms reading. This test seems i have something bad in the wire connector. But what to do about it? More searching i guess.

I also have another issue that might be related maybe not.
I have a loud "tick tick tick" when only at operating temp.
Checked torque on rockers and injector's on driver side. All good

Pulled #10 wire out of 42pin connector. Which i believe is #8 cylinder.
Put connector back together and snugged it back up , less #10.
Slide the wire in the connector to make contact.
Started truck. "tick,tick,tick". Pulled out wire just a touch. Tick goes away.
The ticking is rather loud and driving me nuts.


58psi fuel pressure at idle. (home made)
No "Blow by" what so ever. Maybe just a tad Oil steam when hot.
Motor's oil good.
Fuel filter, "haven't changed yet since i owned it a six months ago."
80k miles. All stock. Except EGT gauge and home made temporary boost gauge.
O yea. Foil Delete. hehe.. Cleaned all the boots. So why not.
HPX is on its way.Going to do the fuel tank mod and Order supplies when i get back from vacation.

Other than the fuel tank mod,hpx and fuel filter, any of these thinks jump out at yea?

 

Well I first have to say i like posters like you that have the original post well thought out, and alot of information included. It makes it very easy for us to reply since we don't have to ask a specific question (that you already covered above), and then wait for an answer, and then get a bunch of clues together to help solve the jigsaw puzzle.

The ticking noise, can it be described as someone tapping on a piece of metal with a ball peen hammer? Defanitely cylinder eight. Due to the fuel system, and the firing order, the fuel is fed from the front of the drivers head, 2,4,6,8. It just so happens that cylinder 6 fires "directly" (90*) before cylinder eight does. So, instead of Ford improving the fuel system to prevent this, they modified the injector from a normal "AD" code, into an "AE" or "Long Lead" injector, which means it injects a wee bit more fuel to compensate for the lack of fuel/ oil pressure due to the cylinder in front of it using all the pressure. After you do fuel system mods, it is possible to swap that out for a regular AD code injector, the noise is guaranteed to go away.

As far as boost, how long do you rev out the engine, to 3500rpm? If you are only seeing 15psi at 2000 RPM, then that's pretty good. But nearly doubling the engine speed gives alot more exhaust velocity for the turbo to be spun up with.

 

Seem like an awful amount of threads exposed.. Hard to tell. It is really crammed in back there. Hard enough to just get my cell phone in there. Don't have clips. Didn't want to attempt popping it off it unless i get more. Know were i can get more? Size?

 

I run it to 3500rpm. not from a dead stop. don't want to burn my truck up. Just like passing a car . Floor it around 45mph. The gauge rips up to 15psi and just shakes while the engine is still pulling hard. EBP ? Why the screwy numbers on the ohms check? My not understanding Ohms properly? I just read of from the directions and what the gauge told me. If i baby the truck. Easy going off green lights and easy on the gas. I hardly ever see any boost. But 17cty 23hwy MPG must be doing ok. I will get some good boost readings and EGT pulling my 9000lbs 5th wheel this saturday.

O yea. Turbo seems ok. No play of any sort.

 

i am wondering if you have a bad boost gauge

 

try a 10k mod.

 

Doubtful you'll hit 20 without a chip, or unless you are loaded down extremely heavy and you wire the wastegate shut.

Best I ever managed stock was 18 psi.

 

1st gauge was a 0-60. Second was a 0-30 gauge Both read 15max. Going to grab one from work tomorrow. And see if there is a difference.. I forgot to stick my head in the cab to see what pressure i was getting when i was pressure testing. Dang. I already put tools away. I "t"'d into the map sensor line. Ran 1/8" hose in the cab. A regular temporary PSI 0-30 stuck in the coin tray. For now. I tested the gauge the other day and was fine. But will grab another and try it. Hose fittings are connections not leaking.

Map sensor connection was leaking like crazy. Big BUBBLES>. Wowo. Thought i had it licked. FIxed it and , "NOPE". That big of a leak and not a bit of difference on the gauge. this 5 PSI is going to be tough if that leak didn't fix anything.

 

Honestly i wouldnt worry about it. Its not like the truck runs poorly and you need to get the boost up to increase performance.. or do you? I bet if your gauge read 18 or 20psi, you still wouldnt know a difference in performance. This is all a better reason to get a mild 60hp towing PCM flash from DP tuner.

 

I can hit 22 when I mat it with 6637, 4" dual exhaust, and the wastegate unplugged on stock programming.
Dan, you can shorten the WG acuator arm and might squeeze a bit more boost out that way. It's pretty simple to do- take a pick and carefully pop the clip off of where the WG arm attaches to the actuator- if you're not careful it will become a jeezus clip because when it flies off you'll say "jeezus!" and never see it again. Once that is off, 2 10mm bolts allow you to pull the WG out (don't drop them in the valley like I did!) Then all you do is crank that end piece down until it won't go anymore- mine has almost no threads showing. You probably don't have to remove the WG but it makes it easier IMO. Reassembly can be a pain because it will be difficult to get the WG rod back onto the pin it rides on.

 

I had 15psi stock, and 17psi after I hacked off the muffler.

Not gonna see 20 with out more work

 

Not trying to start anything, but i can get about 23 with a 10k mod, and even higher with the gas that start with 'H',

which i dont type because theres millions of hippies on the net looking to run there car on water.

 

I can hit 25 when I floor it in 3rd with the t/c locked. All its got is a 6637, the muffler removed (stock pipe ends under bed), and the waste gate is disconnected. Guess I'm lucky and got a peppy truck or a bad gauge.

 

If you disconnect the wastegate you should be able to get higher PSI's.

I disconnected it once, and was fooling around with a 10k mod and went way over 20.

Disconnecting the wastegate also kills fuel mileage a little i thought....

 

FWIW, I only hit about 17-18 psi with all the mods below with stock programming. I think you're about right. I also think you're going the right direction with the mods. Do all those supporting mods first, then pull the trigger on a flashed PCM or Tuner.

I can now hit about 28 psi nailing it with either the Race or Extreme tunes. I pulled my wastegate line a long time ago -- the SOTP dyno tells me it made a difference, so off it stays. Until I get injectors & upgraded turbo, my truck is staying like it is. I have a few more "supporting" mods to do, though (tranny cooler, I/C, etc.).