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I'm trying to sort out my problem with my truck running and then stopping and not running again. I went ahead and replaced the ignition coil. Are both wires going to the coil hot? I read 12.6 or so on both terminals when I hook a voltmeter to the negative terminal on the battery and the positive lead on each coil terminal.
I don't get any spark from the new coil either.
'95 f150 300/ 4.9L / I6
Last edited by Thornido; Jun 21, 2008 at 11:07 PM.
Reason: added info
My truck was doing the exact same thing as you. I went through everything. I'm going to let you in on a secret. I went through mine and replaced the coil, computer, cap and rotor, plug wires... No spark. The problem was the pickup coil in the distributer. It's a $30 part, but you gotta pull the distributer to get to it. It's no problem really, just make sure you mark exactly where the distributer is mounted and mark where the rotor is pointing towards. I ended up just replacing the whole dizzy with an $88 remanufactured Motorcraft one from O'Reillys. Solved my problem when I was desperate. Honestly, start there. My uncle (Mechanic for years) told me it was the pickup coil in the distributer all along, and he had a friends truck that had the same problem. Get a new pickup coil that goes in the distributer, it's about $30 or just get a whole new dizzy. I think that will fix your problem.
With the coil plugged in, the key on and the engine off both terminals at the coil will have power because the coil is not an open circuit. What you need to do is connect a test light to the negative side of the coil and the positive battery terminal and crank the engine. If the light flashes you need a coil, if it doesn't flash the coil is not being told to fire. The ignition modules on the TFI system are common failure items. I used to keep a spare and the tool to change it in my glove compartment, but I sold my spare to a guy along the road for $20 when his burnt up.
I finally tracked down a manual and did some trouble shooting. I replaced the ignition control module and my truck started right up. It was frustrating because I pulled the ICM and had AutoZone test it, twice. First it passed 4 tests, then the next day it passed 6 tests and got hot ( they told me it should get hot for a good test). I drove my truck about 500 miles home and parked it for about 5 days. Now I have the same problem. Now I am going to replace the pickup coil in the distributor and, hopefully, this little ghost of a problem will be fixed once and for all..
you have got to get the right ohm coil for you ignition innitor. Some moduals take a coil with a i.5 resistance and others take a 3.5 resistance you have to check it out or you burn up the coils.
I finally tracked down a manual and did some trouble shooting. I replaced the ignition control module and my truck started right up. It was frustrating because I pulled the ICM and had AutoZone test it, twice. First it passed 4 tests, then the next day it passed 6 tests and got hot ( they told me it should get hot for a good test). I drove my truck about 500 miles home and parked it for about 5 days. Now I have the same problem. Now I am going to replace the pickup coil in the distributor and, hopefully, this little ghost of a problem will be fixed once and for all..
I realize this is an old thread but I was not clear on the outcome of your ford issue. You were told to replace the pickup coil but you replaced the ignition module, correct? It ran with that swap for a while then acted the same before the swap? Did you end of replacing the pickup coil or distributor or both? I'm having similar issues. Pulled a pip code tonight. Got hot on both coil terminals no pulsing when cranking. No spark out of coil. When it first started I had pulse out of coil to dist. Out of dist 1 spark only then nothing. On each cylinder. Then my tester crapped out. I'd appreciate verification on the repairs you made. Thanks