more power
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more power
ok i want to build my motor to were it can handle boost like daves motor ive been thinkin about it and decide when it get the money ill probly do it. so i need to know wat all i need to do to at least run 20 25 psi of boost and what do i need to do for a turbo and fuel injection and what ever else and if its possible i would like to know a price range
Last edited by dyoung14; Jun 20, 2008 at 09:18 PM. Reason: it was mest up
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
If you have an engine and can do all the tear down and assembly, but need a turbo system, you are looking at over 5000 dollars.
I had an ATS upgrade turbo, did everything myself other than the machine shop work and I have 4500 in mine 2 years ago.
I had an ATS upgrade turbo, did everything myself other than the machine shop work and I have 4500 in mine 2 years ago.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I bought an ATS turbo, from ATS.
3" downpipe
The stock Ford turbo system for the IDI was an ATS system, Ford reduced the turbo outlet from 3" ID to 2.25" ID, then ran over the downpipe with a forklift 6 times before installing it.
Magnafux everything.
Check everything to make sure it is well within spec.
Only bore the block the minimum amount required to get fresh cylinder walls.
Mine is .030 over, .020 was not quite enough.
ARP head studs.
Use 7.3 exhaust valves, valve springs and rockers.
Check the valve guides, replace as required.
I used Sealed Power Hypereutectic pistons, then milled .040 off the crown to lower the compression ratio to 20.25 to 1.
Port matching will help the flow, a bit of head porting will also help if you want to spend the money.
3" downpipe
The stock Ford turbo system for the IDI was an ATS system, Ford reduced the turbo outlet from 3" ID to 2.25" ID, then ran over the downpipe with a forklift 6 times before installing it.
Magnafux everything.
Check everything to make sure it is well within spec.
Only bore the block the minimum amount required to get fresh cylinder walls.
Mine is .030 over, .020 was not quite enough.
ARP head studs.
Use 7.3 exhaust valves, valve springs and rockers.
Check the valve guides, replace as required.
I used Sealed Power Hypereutectic pistons, then milled .040 off the crown to lower the compression ratio to 20.25 to 1.
Port matching will help the flow, a bit of head porting will also help if you want to spend the money.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Which reminds me, I know somebody has already asked this. Couldn't you put 7.3 heads on a 6.9.....larger valves, no? I know the valve seats are different and the pre-combustion chamber are different. Just a thought...... Ah, the things I'd do if i had the money =D
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
The valve metal changed, 7.3 valves will fit a 6.9 head.
7.3 heads will not fit a 6.9 block, head bolt size is different.
In my opinion, 7.3 engines are not rebuildable.
I had three reman 7.3 turbo engines die in 1.5 years and under 30,000 miles.
A 7.3 has to be sleeved when rebuilt, a 6.9 does not.
Sleeves are a bad joke, many engine shops will not touch a 7.3 because of the sleeve problems.
Basically Locktite is all that holds the sleeves in place.
If they move, a cracked block is the result.
7.3 heads will not fit a 6.9 block, head bolt size is different.
In my opinion, 7.3 engines are not rebuildable.
I had three reman 7.3 turbo engines die in 1.5 years and under 30,000 miles.
A 7.3 has to be sleeved when rebuilt, a 6.9 does not.
Sleeves are a bad joke, many engine shops will not touch a 7.3 because of the sleeve problems.
Basically Locktite is all that holds the sleeves in place.
If they move, a cracked block is the result.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 1
From: Las vegas
Actualy if the sleve job is done right they should be clamped in place by the head and the block, Unless this isn't possible with the 7.3 block for some reason. The lock tight more or less hodls them in place for asembly purposes.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Some engines are designed to be sleeved from the factory and they run just as long and hard as any other type. The 2.3L TD that the ranger had from 1985-1987 was a mitsubishi that was sleeved using a pressure interference fit, and a newer version of it is basically the light diesel of choice in south asia. The overhaul manual for the 4D56 diesel makes no mention of using any adhesive to secure the new sleeves in position, instead the use of a hydraulic press is needed to pressure fit the sleeve to the bore. Instructions call for oil to be applied to the block bore, bu no glue of any kind is used.
It makes me wonder just how common it really is to use glue instead of an interference fit when installing sleeves in an engine block.
It makes me wonder just how common it really is to use glue instead of an interference fit when installing sleeves in an engine block.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Many of the larger diesels use wet liners.
At rebuild time jack the old liner out and install a new one.
Sleeves are a bit different.
On every reman I tore down, all of the sleeves were below the deck height, some by a considerable distance.
The biggest problem I see is the fire ring rests on the end of the sleeves, not the block.
So the pressure from torquing down the heads is transfered to the sleeves, causing them to be pressed into the block farther.
After they go in far enough, it is just like driving a wedge into a log, it splits.
There is not a machine shop within 100 miles of here that will install sleeves in a 7.3 block.
Even if they have had no trouble with jobs they have done, there are to many bad stories about shops that did have problems being sued when the blocks cracked.
I took all responsibility for an engine failure when I did my 6.9.
I told him if he did exactly what I wanted, that was OK by me.
That machine shop will now rebuild 6.9 engines if the owner will let them do it my way.
At rebuild time jack the old liner out and install a new one.
Sleeves are a bit different.
On every reman I tore down, all of the sleeves were below the deck height, some by a considerable distance.
The biggest problem I see is the fire ring rests on the end of the sleeves, not the block.
So the pressure from torquing down the heads is transfered to the sleeves, causing them to be pressed into the block farther.
After they go in far enough, it is just like driving a wedge into a log, it splits.
There is not a machine shop within 100 miles of here that will install sleeves in a 7.3 block.
Even if they have had no trouble with jobs they have done, there are to many bad stories about shops that did have problems being sued when the blocks cracked.
I took all responsibility for an engine failure when I did my 6.9.
I told him if he did exactly what I wanted, that was OK by me.
That machine shop will now rebuild 6.9 engines if the owner will let them do it my way.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: On a farm near Malmo
The 466 engine is a wet sleeve engine and if the counter bores and block are clean I can normally push them in by hand. A little soap on the o' rings and they go right in. 361s and 407s used dry sleeves. The motors ran forever but if you did need to overhaul them you had to get the welder out and lay a couple beads on the sleeve to shrink it enough the get them out. I have used locktite before but it was because there was not a oversize sleeve available. It fit a little loose. And it was on my own engine which is still running. It is in a tractor that we use around the farm and dont put alot of ours on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Many of the larger diesels use wet liners.
At rebuild time jack the old liner out and install a new one.
Sleeves are a bit different.
On every reman I tore down, all of the sleeves were below the deck height, some by a considerable distance.
The biggest problem I see is the fire ring rests on the end of the sleeves, not the block.
So the pressure from torquing down the heads is transfered to the sleeves, causing them to be pressed into the block farther.
After they go in far enough, it is just like driving a wedge into a log, it splits.
There is not a machine shop within 100 miles of here that will install sleeves in a 7.3 block.
Even if they have had no trouble with jobs they have done, there are to many bad stories about shops that did have problems being sued when the blocks cracked.
I took all responsibility for an engine failure when I did my 6.9.
I told him if he did exactly what I wanted, that was OK by me.
That machine shop will now rebuild 6.9 engines if the owner will let them do it my way.
At rebuild time jack the old liner out and install a new one.
Sleeves are a bit different.
On every reman I tore down, all of the sleeves were below the deck height, some by a considerable distance.
The biggest problem I see is the fire ring rests on the end of the sleeves, not the block.
So the pressure from torquing down the heads is transfered to the sleeves, causing them to be pressed into the block farther.
After they go in far enough, it is just like driving a wedge into a log, it splits.
There is not a machine shop within 100 miles of here that will install sleeves in a 7.3 block.
Even if they have had no trouble with jobs they have done, there are to many bad stories about shops that did have problems being sued when the blocks cracked.
I took all responsibility for an engine failure when I did my 6.9.
I told him if he did exactly what I wanted, that was OK by me.
That machine shop will now rebuild 6.9 engines if the owner will let them do it my way.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I am going to guess, about 1/8".
If you look at the magic marker line, you can see where both of the sleeves have dropped.
And between the marker lines, you can see the result.
There were machine marks on both the block and the end of the sleeve, so after the block was sleeved, the block was surfaced and the sleeves were flush.
That engine had 2700 miles on it when the block cracked while I was idling across a parking lot spreading salt.
Also the pressure building in the cooling system cost me a radiator and heater core.
30 PSI in the radiator in 15 seconds running.
Never again will I own a sleeved engine.
There is a better way.
If you look at the magic marker line, you can see where both of the sleeves have dropped.
And between the marker lines, you can see the result.
There were machine marks on both the block and the end of the sleeve, so after the block was sleeved, the block was surfaced and the sleeves were flush.
That engine had 2700 miles on it when the block cracked while I was idling across a parking lot spreading salt.
Also the pressure building in the cooling system cost me a radiator and heater core.
30 PSI in the radiator in 15 seconds running.
Never again will I own a sleeved engine.
There is a better way.