Ignition problems?
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New User
Joined: Jun 2008
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Ignition problems?
For whatever reason I could not get my truck to shut off the other day. The ignition switch turned normally to the right and left but didn't seem to "click" into any positions. I had to eventually drive it home and switch over to the alternate gas tank (that was empty) to get it to shut off. Without thinking I forgot to disconnect the battery and it died overnight. I took it to get it recharged and ended up having to buy a new battery. So, knowing the battery is brand new, when I pulled the steering wheel and installed the new ignition switch I was surprised to find that the same problem still exists. The car will not turn on or turn into the off position. I had to disconnect the battery and throw my hands in the air. What could be the problem? I would normally assume it's the starter, but it won't shut off either. It seems like the ignition (brand new) is just not turning whatever it is inside the steering column that clicks it into place.
Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth, OH
Sounds to me like either the rod that runs down the column to the actual switch is either broken or has come disconnected from the switch. And I believe, someone please correct me if I'm wrong here, there's another piece that pivots for the tilt columns that has a tendency to break as well. You could try reaching up over the column and see if the rod is off/broken. but that would be my guess. If the lock cylinder turns but isn't working the switch. If the rod's intact you could have a bad switch on the column.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
Likes: 10
Yes it sounds like the ign. switch actuator is faulty. This connects the key switch to the rod that runs down to the ign./start switch. You will find the ign./start switch on top of the steering column under the dash, if you reach up you will feel the rod already mentioned. To replace the ign. switch actuator you will have to pull the steering wheel, the turn signal plate and the column shroud. There are two parts to the actuator but is normally the part connected to the rod that breakes. Cheap to buy but a PITA to fit.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 790
Likes: 0
From: Danville, Pa
Easiest way to determine if it's the cam actuator, rod, switch, or key lock is too...
Reach underneath the dash, on the top of the steering column. Twards the steering wheel from where the aluminum bracket bolts up the steering column. Turn the key while feeling the rod. If the rod moves, it's the ignition switch. If not, then it's the actuator cam. To make sure, turn the key to "run" position. Now insert a piece of wire or something about an 1/8th inch into a hole directly under the key switch. Aproximately at the 7 O'clock position if your looking directly at the column from the side. Pull out the key, lock and all Make sure the "tab" isn't broken or worn to the point it's not engaging it's mating hole in the column.
I just happen to be going through this now. If you want, I'll take some pics.
Reach underneath the dash, on the top of the steering column. Twards the steering wheel from where the aluminum bracket bolts up the steering column. Turn the key while feeling the rod. If the rod moves, it's the ignition switch. If not, then it's the actuator cam. To make sure, turn the key to "run" position. Now insert a piece of wire or something about an 1/8th inch into a hole directly under the key switch. Aproximately at the 7 O'clock position if your looking directly at the column from the side. Pull out the key, lock and all Make sure the "tab" isn't broken or worn to the point it's not engaging it's mating hole in the column.
I just happen to be going through this now. If you want, I'll take some pics.
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