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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 08:38 AM
  #16  
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Farm, If the clutch is not coming on be sure to check the air gap...should be around .015 or smaller without rubbing with the AC off. You can measure the air gap or turn on the AC and smack the clutch with the plastic end of a screwdriver ect. If the clutch comes on you found your trouble. A new clutch will not be needed, just remove a shim from under the clutch . This is a common problem for older units or units run in dusty/dirty conditions.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 05:08 PM
  #17  
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Not a problem TJ.

I turned on the ac this afternoon and didn't hear it come on. I looked at the two electrical plugs and they checked out.

So should I start with this low pressure switch? I'm thinking that she has a leak though...

How expensive are ac gauges? I doubt its economical for me to pick some up. I'm gonna ask around and see if I can find some...
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 05:25 PM
  #18  
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Harbor freight had some gagues for 29 bucks I think it was. Came with high and low side fittings too.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 05:32 PM
  #19  
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I didn't see Cuda's post earlier.

What do I smack?

Todd, $29 isn't bad.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 06:04 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by FARM69
I didn't see Cuda's post earlier.

What do I smack?

Todd, $29 isn't bad.
You can bypass the low pressure switch with a jumper wire to see if the clutch engages ..

If so , you may only be low on refrigerant ..It is available without sealant ..add a can (or two) & see what happens...
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 06:05 PM
  #21  
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How do I bypass?

Are there any preferred brands of refrigerant?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 07:23 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by FARM69
How do I bypass?

Are there any preferred brands of refrigerant?
Bypass by jumping out the low pressure switch. Just use a jumper wire or soemthing of the similar.

Far as preferred brands of refrigerant, just make sure its the 134a.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 08:43 PM
  #23  
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Where is the low pressure switch located at? Any pictures? Descriptions?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 10:44 PM
  #24  
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The A/c Wasnt Working In Mine And I Re-charged It Last Summer And Only Lasted 2 Weeks Then Got Warm Again So I Tried A New Sealer That Advanced Auto Parts Sells That Seals Rubber Leaks And Metal Leaks And It Has Been Blowing Cold Now For 3 Weeks And No Problems Yet.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 12:04 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by FARM69
Where is the low pressure switch located at? Any pictures? Descriptions?
Sorry I can't tell you for sure, I haven't had to play around with mine yet. I'm sure TJ or someone else with more experience than me will point you in the right direction.

I can tell you this though, Jump out the compressor forcing it to run. If it runs, you know your open on the low presure (low on charge.) Somethin they taught me back in the school days.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 12:07 AM
  #26  
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Ok. A lot of good information on here. Hopefully tomorrow I can bypass the switch and go from there.

Should I be able to hear it click on from the cab with the windows down?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 05:32 AM
  #27  
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Farm there are two switches on the AC system. I have a hard time remembering which is which but I am pretty sure the high pressure cut off is on the back of the compressor and the low pressure switch is on the accumulator/dryer by the heater box.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 10:11 AM
  #28  
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The low pressure switch is located on the accumilator, the big can looking thing by the heater box that has two tubes running to it. Unplug the wire from the switch and jump the two wires in the harness. If the compressor runs when connector is jumped, but doesn't cool the freon charge is low which is most likely. If it cools when jumped the switch could be bad. Hope this helps Tom
 
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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 01:02 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by FARM69
I didn't see Cuda's post earlier.

What do I smack?
Smack the front of the clutch. The part that's not spinning....hope that makes sense?
 
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 09:45 AM
  #30  
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The switch that actuates the ac unit is the plug in between the pulley and the ac unit. you will see the two metal lines that run into the back of the unit, on the line block, you will see a small sensor there with a wire harness going to it. This is the piece that acutates signal due to pressure. These go bad occasionally also.

If anyone needs one, I hav e a switch here in my shop.
 
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