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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 12:19 AM
  #16  
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Damstr8
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From: Liberty Township OHIO
I will be faben up my own bracket with a plate to mount on the bottom of the frame. I will upgraden the PS pump to a later ford pump. And the best part of this conversion is that you don't need to do a D60 knuckle block lift. Also it will be easy to change out on trail or recalibaret on a run. I will post pics as make the parts, get the parts, and install them.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 10:42 AM
  #17  
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Fordworth
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From: Alvarado, TX
Using the 3/4" heim joints on the drag link helps because you the hole in the steering arm straight and mount the link on top to reduce the angle. I had considered trying to find a longer pitman also but it works so well (with 8 inches of lift) that I didn't bother.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 11:55 AM
  #18  
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Damstr8
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From: Liberty Township OHIO
FordWorth are ya still useing the stock PS Pump? If so are you still running ATF as fluid or PS fluid? I was thinking of going to the new style plastic reservoir.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #19  
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Fordworth
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From: Alvarado, TX
I am using an original pump with atf, but the later one would work too. I believe the plastic ones use different hose fittings but that won't matter since you need custom hoses anyway. Are there any advantages to the later pumps? Parts store rebuild units are hit and miss for sure. I got lucky with the one thats been on the truck for 10+ years so I've stuck with it. I took it off my '68 Cougar when it was parked for a while because I knew it worked well but when I started driving the Cougar again the replacement pump sucked. Like I said, hit and miss.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 12:30 PM
  #20  
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Damstr8
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From: Liberty Township OHIO
The plastic ones have a cap that twists on where the old metal ones have a push in. After the first time I wheeled this thing, I learned that I need to zip tie the push cap down. I had lost it some where in the woods. I had to drive home with a beer cap on the filler tube to keep some of the fluid in it. I must have blew it off from pressure build up.

The main problem I think I have with my old pump is the pulley, I got a feeling that it's got a small bent in it, or that it ain't sitting on the shaft str8. I have found alum replacements but that don't make since to me on a truck.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 01:16 PM
  #21  
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Thunderjet4x4
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Some of these steering mods, are they for trail trucks only-or will they be legal for road use-and pass inspection?
Im not a cop, or work for the transportation people-but would hate to spend alot of coin on an obviously better working system, only to have it towed from being pulled over for something minor, and someone recognizeing the steering isn't stock.
I still am not sure if heim joints are road legal where I live-guess I would have to talk to the cops and dot. I would guess no. I know welded steering components is a major no no.
It seems I never see any trucks with rubber over 38" any more on the roads because the cops harass them, and can make peoples lives hell. Every place is different tho.

75F350, are those chevy tie rod ends beefier on the knuckle? Can they be used on stock Ford components?

My beast has been converted to a 2wd box, push pull(basically a 79 setup with a 2wd box) and seems to work ok.
I have been using a yellow plastic res. Ford ps pump(yellow used to indicate for the mustang quick ratio steering, higher pressure and flow). It works ok-better than the old can style, but I have a Ford saginaw pump I will be swapping in one day.
Just curious.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 08:27 PM
  #22  
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Fordworth
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From: Alvarado, TX
We don't have regular inspections here in CA. As long as you have mud flaps the cops don't really mess with you. I would check with the local authorities if you have concerns. The only time vehicles have to be inspected here is when they've been totaled and salvaged like mine but the inspection is done by a regular repair shop, not the dot. All they check is brakes and lights. They didn't even care that I had aftermarket rear disks with no e-brake and an adjustable race type prop valve. They actually complimented me on the brakes and steering.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #23  
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Damstr8
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From: Liberty Township OHIO
Ok here is the data from the pump I am using. (I am listing everything you need to know to get one for yourself if you do this swap. This is gear box only info)

DUREX gear box #7500 Reverse Rotation

DODGE TRUCK
AD,AW RAMCHARGER
1974,1975,1976,1977
All Engines - w/POWER STEERING, REVERSE ROTATION
D,W 100-350 PICKUPS
1972,1973,1974,1975,1976,1977
All Engines - w/POWER STEERING, REVERSE ROTATION

INTERNATIONAL TRUCK

1000 Ser. 1/2T
1969,1970,1971,1972,1973,1974,1975
All Engines - w/POWER STEERING, REVERSE ROTATION
1100 Ser. 1/2,3/4T
1969,1970,1971,1972,1973,1974,1975
All Engines - w/POWER STEERING, REVERSE ROTATION
1200 Ser. 3/4,1T
1969,1970,1971,1972,1973,1974,1975
All Engines - w/POWER STEERING, REVERSE ROTATION

PLYMOUTH TRUCK
PD,PW TRAILDUSTER
1974,1975,1976,1977
All Engines - w/POWER STEERING, REVERSE ROTATION



Sorry for all the space used, but I wanted to make it alot easier for anyone else that might do this swap.

Now I am searching for the box bracket. I want one to look at. I will most likely make my own. I just need to find out what year vehicle and what makes.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 03:59 PM
  #24  
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75F350
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Spherical rod ends are not DOT approved, so be carefull if your state has inspections. Also verify that your ends are not ever working at too much of an angle, otherwise you risk failure.
Chevy 1 ton TRE's are larger and provide greater angles than the smaller ones used in the ford. You will have to tapper the pitman arm and steering arm in order to utilize the ES 2026, and 2027 ends.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 05:36 PM
  #25  
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Damstr8
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From: Liberty Township OHIO
75F350 what are you running? If you don't mind me asking.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #26  
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Damstr8
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From: Liberty Township OHIO
I got my Box today at a total steal. I got it on eBay for $9.99 w/ $15 shipping. New well rebuilt. I found out from NAPA that they sell they box made by Durex. And the Durex number is 7500. All Durex does is rebuild them they are a Saginaw box. Plugged 7500 into eBay and won it.

Now I need to find a pitman arm for it. Bad part is that there are not that many junk yards near me in Southern Ohio. Way to many Yuppies here. So I am in search for the pitman arm. Then from there I will be mounting the box, and fabbing up the Drag link.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:39 PM
  #27  
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75F350
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Originally Posted by Damstr8
75F350 what are you running? If you don't mind me asking.

Which truck? Lol.
I use a saginaw box in the red truck. This uses a self made DOM, drag link with chro-mo spherical rod ends.
My orange truck uses an F-150/bronco 3 bolt steering box, and self made DOM drag link and tie rod, with giant 1 1/4" chro-mo spherical rod ends.
Pops truck uses a 78/9 style power steering box with a custom drag link and this truck uses the chevy 1 ton TRE's.

All of them work well, and all of them use x-over steering.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:59 PM
  #28  
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Damstr8
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From: Liberty Township OHIO
Dang man, my wife would kill me with that many trucks. All I got is my 76 F250 HighBoy and a 99 F150.

And the Highboy has they dang ram asset steering. But it don't work. So I am going with steering like Fordworth's. And finding the parts are getting fun. But at least all I need to do is the box, pump ( mine's crap ), and the drag link. Where the stock ram is I will be changing that to a Dual steering stabilizer.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 05:14 AM
  #29  
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bumsy
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From: bridgeport,wv
my 74 has a ROSS box, i think. local machine shop ordered kit and rebuilt for $200.00. oops ? also paid $200.00 for rebuilt cylinder from GREEN CO. Local machine shop would' open orig. up. said Green co's was cheapest deal. works great. CHOW.
 
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