1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

I cant let this truck beat me....come on guys help me!!

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Old 06-10-2008, 05:34 PM
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I cant let this truck beat me....come on guys help me!!

OK guys, this is my 3rd post on this dang truck. I gave up on it and then told myself i just cant let this truck defeat me.

I bought a 1994 ford ranger 2.3l man, that had a cracked head. I replaced the head and put the truck together....crank crank crank crank but no start. I had good spark and fuel spitting from the injectors. Just for the hell of it i replaced the computer.....i lost the spark. I found that to be wierd so i put my original computer back in....no spark.

I since then have changed the ignition module with one from a salvage yard, both coil packs from a salvage yard, and a brand spankin new crankshaft sensor....nothing no spark. My last option is to change the computer again, but i already did that and nothing happedned except i lost spark. Ive checked all fuses in fuse box under hood and checked all the grounds i know to check.

Please i need some good knowledgable help for this truck before i give up in defeat.
 
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Old 06-10-2008, 06:57 PM
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Look carefully for small wires going to the computer or the coil packs that may have a very small break in the insulation, just enough to let it ground. This almost drove me crazy on a different car with exactly these symptoms until I finally found the wire that was grounding.
Hope this helps.
 
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:14 PM
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Are you sure the timing is set correctly. You could be 360 deg. out of time.
 
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:16 PM
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While checking the insulation and after checking the timing, check for proper ground on everything. Engine block etc.
 
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Old 06-10-2008, 08:31 PM
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How is the compression?? Check the valve timing. Greg
 
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:41 PM
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Fuses aren't the only thing to check. These vehicles have what's called "fusible links" which perform the same function as fuses except that they're built into the wire (where they occur). My memory is pretty foggy on where they're located, whether you can tell if they're blown by looking at them, or if you have to check the continuity....

Pat
 
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Old 06-10-2008, 10:10 PM
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does it have a distributor? if so, check the ignition module
 
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Old 06-11-2008, 07:00 AM
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Lets think about this some more.

Back when you origionally had spark & fuel pressure, it sounded like you just had a timing problem.

You may now have more than one problem.

Do you have idiot lights lit when you go to KOER????

Are the injectors still working???

If not, check the computers underhood power relay, as the computer supplies the ground for the coil packs & injectors & powers the dash idiot lights.

If you know you have power to the computer, you said after you initially replaced the computer, you lost spark, then re-installed the origional computer & you had no spark, whereas origonally you did!!!!

So since the computer supplies the ground for the coilpacks, I'd maybe begin with pulling the computers electrical connector & inspecting it for bent, broken, or pushed back pins or sockets, or a damaged wire to it's connector, or maybe it not being tightened up all the way, ect, ect.

If that checks out ok, but still no spark, then go back & install all of the origional components you had in there, when you did have spark & injector action, then check for spark again.

If still no spark, then check the coilpacks to see if they have B+ to them at KOEO.

Once you get back to the begining & have spark & fuel injector ground pulses, check the spark timing.

If that's ok, then check for compression. as has been said you may have gotten the timing belt marks out when reinstalling the head.

Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 06-11-2008, 07:16 AM
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incorrect timing is usual head change issue on OHC engines. 2-3 teeth belt shift is enought.... Check timing mark agane.
 
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Old 06-11-2008, 07:20 AM
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well, to be sure remove valve cover, and be sure you have #1 cyl. spark when all #1 cyl. valves are closed.....
 
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Old 06-11-2008, 06:30 PM
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Excellent tips guys...so far ive ran through the whole wire harness looking for crack splits or puncture marks....nothing. I then installed the original coil packs and original controll module...nothing still. I am about to check the computer relay and check if the injectors are still spitting fuel.

As for the timing...this is something that i was sure i had out of whack when i had spark and fuel and it just wouldnt start, but i constantely checked and rechecked myself over and over and it seemed to be just fine. I had cylinder 1 tdc and i had the camshaft arrow pointing in the proper place. Theres still a few ideas i havent checked yet but ill finish checking them this evening. Thanks alot guys for the help so far and please dont give up on the ideas, i must figure out this truck i cant just give up when ive gone this far. Thanks again ill update tommorrow with progress.
 
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Old 06-11-2008, 06:48 PM
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Also would be possible to supply a temporary jumper wire to coil packs from battery negative to simulate computer supplying ground to coil packs? Also what is a good way to see if the ignition module is working properly.
 
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Old 06-11-2008, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by codys50ford
Also would be possible to supply a temporary jumper wire to coil packs from battery negative to simulate computer supplying ground to coil packs? Also what is a good way to see if the ignition module is working properly.
Check the fuel injectors & coil packs electrical connectors, to see if you have B+ to them at KOEO.

Then check to make sure you have a signal from the new crankshaft sensor, without it the computer is gonna lay downon the job!!!

The origional coil packs aren't likely bad imo, as they were working & you had spark before you changed the computer out the first time.
So I'd reinstall them.

The salvage ignition module is a unknown, unless you've had it tested, which most autoparts stores can do, along with the coil packs & maybe the computer.
I'd not try to ground jumper the coil packs, remove & have them tested.

Again, I'd go back & install all the origional parts & see if you can get the spark back.

Then check the injectors with a noid light, to see if they are getting a ground pulse.

Then check the fuel pressure.

Then check the spark timing.

Then check compression.
 
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:47 PM
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How can i check to see if i am getting a signal from the crankshaft sensor?

Also to check for b+ i just probed one of the connector wires with a test light....is that sufficient?
 
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Old 06-12-2008, 08:24 PM
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ok one set of good news that i got today was that my original ignition controll module is not good, but the one from the salvage yard is good. So i do have a good ignition controll module...i also have a new crank sensor...and good controll packs...but no spark. Ive checked all fuses that are visible and a fuseable like that is next to the battery they all seem to be good. Where do i go now? Is it the computer...it almost has to be...but what happened when i put the new computer in...why did it loose spark? Im at a totall loss. The only electrical component in the vehicle that hasnt been changed and cannot be checked is the computer...but when i tried to change that in the first place i lost what i did have...ughhh. Any ideas???
 


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