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OKay im getting a code 32 and 33 and 13. As far as the 13 ive replaced the TPS and cleaned the IAC valve. Ive also replaced the PCV valve and the temperature sensor b/c my temp gauge wasnt working.
What should i do about the EGR i have no idea how to diagnose or what to replace.
Update, replaced both temp sensors one for dash and one for computer. Dash needle came up more then usual but didnt reach the N in normal. NOt a big concern but I want the temp sensor to be somewhat accurate to prevent damage.
Still need help with EGR codes, what should i replace or check? I know what it does and where its at but thats about all i know of the EGR. <-- hoping EGR is whats causing a rough idle, not bad but noticeable.
Update, replaced both temp sensors one for dash and one for computer. Dash needle came up more then usual but didnt reach the N in normal. NOt a big concern but I want the temp sensor to be somewhat accurate to prevent damage.
Still need help with EGR codes, what should i replace or check? I know what it does and where its at but thats about all i know of the EGR. <-- hoping EGR is whats causing a rough idle, not bad but noticeable.
Maybe check out the EGR systems DPFE sensor & if thats ok, the vacuum switching valve, that actually controls the application of vacuum to operate the EGR valve & all associated vacuum lines & the fit of those lines onto their connection nipples.
The lines need to be in good condition & fitting tight, no dry rot cracks, hard baked out, or soft swolen condition.
Might be helpful to know the year & engine on this ride.
Maybe check out the EGR systems DPFE sensor & if thats ok, the vacuum switching valve, that actually controls the application of vacuum to operate the EGR valve & all associated vacuum lines & the fit of those lines onto their connection nipples.
The lines need to be in good condition & fitting tight, no dry rot cracks, hard baked out, or soft swolen condition.
Might be helpful to know the year & engine on this ride.
WHere is the DPFE sensor on my truck? I searched other post and cannot find anything that resembles the DPFE that looked rectangular with 2 hose connections on it. All vacuum lines seem to be good, need more help on this one FTE community. Also whats up with my temp gauge replaced both sensors and it still doesn't act right.
WHere is the DPFE sensor on my truck? I searched other post and cannot find anything that resembles the DPFE that looked rectangular with 2 hose connections on it. All vacuum lines seem to be good, need more help on this one FTE community. Also whats up with my temp gauge replaced both sensors and it still doesn't act right.
I'm not a 4banger guy, but I believe the DPFE is attached to a bracket thats mounted to the upper intake manafold & the vacuum modulator/switching valve may also be mounted there.
The DPFE should have some tubing going from it to the EGR valves exhaust tubing.
Edit: Forgot the temp gauge question.
On the temp gauge not reading, is the engine warming up fully????
If not. the thermostat is likely stuck open & the EGR system won't come on line, until the engine warms up!!!!!
I'm not a 4banger guy, but I believe the DPFE is attached to a bracket thats mounted to the upper intake manafold & the vacuum modulator/switching valve may also be mounted there.
The DPFE should have some tubing going from it to the EGR valves exhaust tubing.
Edit: Forgot the temp gauge question.
On the temp gauge not reading, is the engine warming up fully????
If not. the thermostat is likely stuck open & the EGR system won't come on line, until the engine warms up!!!!!
Truck is warm and i went and ahead and replaced thermostat with a high quality one. Driving around the needle will move up but its right below the N in normal. MOre interested in the EGR for the moment b/c truck isnt idling perfect and gas mileage at best has been around 19 with mostly hwy driving at around 65mph.
Auto zone shows EGR assembly for like 80 and EGR switch for 45. Any help diagnosing EGR on this 4 banger would be greatly appreciated.
Nice diagram and pictures there, thx! How do you apply a vacuum to the EVP? Do you put a tube over the grey plastic area and it pulls on the medal stem / black rubber? OR do you leave it hooked up and apply vacuum somewhere else?
OKay replaced EVP will pull codes again tonight and update. Seems to be running about the same.
Any thoughts on my temp gauge? Replaced both sensors and it stays below the N, if its hot outside and ac on high the needle will climb to the M in normal and stay there. Once you start driving it and it cools it goes back to below the N in normal. Any thoughts?
Talk to me FTE anybody? OKay replaced EVP or whatever hooks up to the EGR. right behind the intake near the firewall. Still getting 13,32,33 codes.
Temp gauge still acting as described in previous posts.
Need some WIsdom!
Well on the temp question, it seems the temp gauge is responding to what it's seeing, as you say it'll climb at idle, when it's hot out & the AC is on, but drop back when the engine rpm, speed & airflow increases so maybe the new thermostat isn't doing it's thing & it sticking open, allowing too much coolant flow, or it isn't the specified 195 deg thermostat.
You could confirm the engines true temp with a manual dip type, or non contact type IR thermometer, or by monitoring the computers engine coolant senders PID, with a scantool.
Once you know what the true warmed up engine temp really is, then you'd likely know who is fibbing!!!!
On the latest codes you posted above, did you remember to pull the B- battery cable, to erase the computers memory during, or after the repair????
Well on the temp question, it seems the temp gauge is responding to what it's seeing, as you say it'll climb at idle, when it's hot out & the AC is on, but drop back when the engine rpm, speed & airflow increases so maybe the new thermostat isn't doing it's thing & it sticking open, allowing too much coolant flow, or it isn't the specified 195 deg thermostat.
You could confirm the engines true temp with a manual dip type, or non contact type IR thermometer, or by monitoring the computers engine coolant senders PID, with a scantool.
Once you know what the true warmed up engine temp really is, then you'd likely know who is fibbing!!!!
On the latest codes you posted above, did you remember to pull the B- battery cable, to erase the computers memory during, or after the repair????
I used my code puller to reset computer, but i will pull battery cable just to double check things.
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