EGR codes what next?
On second thought about pulling the B- battery cable, I believe I'd do it for 20 min. or more, so the computer can begin to relearn the things it needs too, with the new parts you've replaced so far.
Let us know where you are on the page one "Do/Check" list.
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt33.pdf
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt34.pdf
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt35.pdf
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt36.pdf
On second thought about pulling the B- battery cable, I believe I'd do it for 20 min. or more, so the computer can begin to relearn the things it needs too, with the new parts you've replaced so far.
Let us know where you are on the page one "Do/Check" list.
IM guessing my truck has the PFE not the DPFE sensor but I am not 100%. I say that b/c i have not seen anything that resembles the DPFE. THere is a switch looking thing mounted on the passenger side engine bay near the heater hoses that has 1 red and 1 green tube going to the EGR/TB i think. Is that the PFE mechanism? Im guessing the sensor that i replaced didnt fix anything b/c the engine still has a minor but noticeable ruff idle and is still throwing 13,32,33 codes.
I am still reading through the PDFs that rock posted but dont understand all of them 100%.
Can anyone tell me if my truck came with the DPFE or PFE sensor? 92 ranger 2.3ltr ?
Did this vacuum line check also include the PCV valve & it's hoses????
What does the underhood, atop the radiator support, VECI label say about your EGR system?????
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
[/IMG]Yes i replaced the PCV and inspected pcv hose. i know you cant read the diagram in the picture but it shows how the system is routed. The red and green hoses arre connected from the sol V one goes to the main vac port other one to the EGR. Shows a vac line going from the a/cv pv near the front of vehicle to the vac port. last hose goes from the vac port to the fpr which looks like a little vacuum diaphragm thing.
GOOD NEWS NO MORE EGR codes! Still need help on other codes. Even though this truck runs okay i like things to work like they should so i want to be able to drive this thing with 0 codes, god willing. TALK to me FTE im listening!
But the computer is still complaining about it's ECT sensor, (code 51) saying the sensor, or wiring is open circuit, or indicates -40F!!!!
So breakout your multimeter & check the new ECT sensors resistance to ground & it's electrical connector & wiring.
The computer needs it's engine temp sensors input to be correct in order to know when the engine is warmed up, so it can begin to use the O2 sensors feedback input to adjust fuel trim & bring the EGR system online, ect.
Without the ECT's input, the compuer will think the engine is cold & enrich the the fuel trim & poor mpg was one of your origional complaints on page 1.
The computer ROM or KAM memory failure code (15) & cant' control high rpm code (12), I'd set aside for now, until you get the ECT problem squared away, so the computer isn't confused about the engines true operating temp.
Truck temp at 170 the voltage going to computer was ~.24-.26 which seems to low
Truck temp at 173 the resistance was 3.7 which seems close.
What now? This was just replaced a few months ago. Bought at auto zone so could easily be bad but what do you think?
Thx
These temps posted was after i drove from work about 25 miles and then left truck idling. I replaced thermostat with new one and my temps are still to low.
I checked old thermostat today and it seem to work fine, started opening up around 195 and completely open by 207 degrees.
Truck temp at 170 the voltage going to computer was ~.24-.26 which seems to low
Truck temp at 173 the resistance was 3.7 which seems close.
What now? This was just replaced a few months ago. Bought at auto zone so could easily be bad but what do you think?
Thx
These temps posted was after i drove from work about 25 miles and then left truck idling. I replaced thermostat with new one and my temps are still to low.
I checked old thermostat today and it seem to work fine, started opening up around 195 and completely open by 207 degrees.
With it's lead disconnected & at room temp, of say 75-80 F, what does the ECT resistance measure to ground?????
The computer thinks the engine is cold (-40), so it's seeing a high resistance, or a messed up return ref voltage.
Sounds like the old thermostat is opening ok, but the operating engine temps you posted are low, if the new thermostat you have is a 195 F & it's working properly & you measured engine temp while it was running, or immediately after shut down.
So it kinda sounds like the new thermostat is acting up!!!! Is it a OEM, or aftermarket one.
Seems to me I rmember you saying you were gont to install a OEM one????








